zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

My car is having some running issues and when I monitor the signal coming to the front coil by hand cranking the CAS, it never shows it getting a signal to fire in one rotation. I can however hear the trails fire what seems to be every once in a while per rotation. Seeing as I'm doing this at a slow speed I think I can eliminate the CAS wire shielding as a reason. The car seems to be reading the correct RPMS 250ish when cranking) but when it ran it seemed like it's RPMS on the haltech were always a couple hundred higher. This is on a K2RD adapter harness so it's using the factory wiring. My primary coil is getting 12.3 volts or the likes of it at the power wire and is reading a constant .03V at the trigger wire. I removed the coil and made sure it was grouned well to the frame and also added a ground strap on it to make sure it was grounded pretty well. The coil produces 1.4 on the DMM which I've read is not too high with a cheap meter and the CAS is reading right about 160ish on both leads which makes me think it is working correctly (and they rarely fail). I have checked the signal coming out of the haltech and it is showing .03 volts when I turn the CAS by hand as well which makes me think that the problem is either my CAS wiring or my haltech.

My question is this: Does anyone know how the wiring of the CAS works? Is it with wire not working right to get the right RPM reading but not the right firing? When this car starts the way it is now, it shakes a whole hell of a lot. It also has a lot of problems starting. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -Zach-

WAYNE88N/A

The CAS is nothing more than spinning magnets passing a pickup of coiled wire, and inducing a voltage in the coil, which is picked up as a "signal" at the ECU (or in your case the haltech), via the shielded wiring.

What are you getting at the haltech with the CAS installed & cranking? .03 volts is zero, basically, you should be getting at least 10 times more induced voltage than that, even more really (.8v or so is ideal)...

Sounds like you need to take a closer look at the "adapter" harness thingy...

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

I checked the CAS resistance readings at the ECU's end of the engine harness to make sure that I was getting the right resistance and even though the numbers came up correct, I figured I wasn't going to risk it being the adapter harness and to top it off I was not sure what the shielding was on the wiringso I went out and bought a new shielded wire and installed it today. I tested the resistance at the ecu and made sure that it was registering something about the same as at the CAS. Numbers came up right and the car is still not starting. The fuel pump resistor relay (this was rewired outside of the harness as well) clicks over and the fuel pump turns on to prime and I can hear it click when cranking. The car makes a nice little cloud of unburnt fuel if I crank it for a little while. I've tried swapping in two different sets of injectors and experienced the same problem each time. Both injector sets registered proper numbers with a DMM to make sure they' were running correctly. I guess I'll go double check my injector wiring on the car and check what the signals to the coils is looking like as well.

Both plugs come out wet with fuel when I pull them and check them and the resistance of the wires is around 500 ohms I think which is well below the 16k it is allowed to be. The plugs were brand new and I've torched them a few times to make them reusable. I know they are firing as well since I tested them outside of the engine while cranking. The reason I suspected the CAS was the possibility that the signal came through too weak for a certain percent of them.

WAYNE88N/A

You got 500 ohms on a spark plug wire???

You can't read the CAS shield from the ECU, per se...

Sounds like you're getting fuel and spark...What's the problem? How's the compression? And the timing?

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

I seem to be getting fuel and it looks like spark too when I check it but it doesn't even stumble or anything when I try and start it right now, it just cranks like it's flooded. I've deflooded and all that, still does it. It has done this a few times and then it finally starts up and runs really rough. The car feels like it's about to sputter out at just about every RPM. I figured that maybe the CAS was missing a signal here and there so I rewired it. I've grouned just about everything with with a 2nd strap to be safe where I can as well. last I checked the primary ignition coil was not getting a firing signal which was the problem. About to go check that again (CAS out turning by hand). People have told me that their cars run a little bit rough off the trailing and but this car is running very rough. I have not done a compression check on it yet but I will do that at some point I suppose. If the car was at all consistent at starting and running badly, then I'd be more inclinded to claim it was compression but I think the way it's running it just seems like something is not working the way it should be. -Zach-

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

With the adapter harness not connecting the CAS anymore, I was able to unplug the harness while keeping the CAS hooked in to test the output of the ECU when the CAS is turned by hand. I saw nothing more than a couple hundredths of a volt on my DMM. I'll double check and make sure it's not the plug for the harness but I'm pretty sure it's set up right. The car has always ran fairly rough, I keep thinking the CAS is the problem. I measured the resistance of the CAS and turned it by hand and found it fluxuates a lot when it's turned and then returns to a constant of about 160. The fluxuations go from about 70 to 250 ohms.

The 3 questions are:

Should it be doing this or should it be holding a more constant number?
Is it supposed to be an open circuit or a short between the wires the manual says to check when you turn the CAS?
Does it read the signals from the small circular magnet-like things that are 180 degrees apart from eachother or the long skinny metal bars that are opposite from eachother?

Thanks, Zach

HAILERS

I'll just put it this way. If you remove your cas....then tun the key to ON......and leave the harness connected to the cas....and lay the LEAD plug wires on the fender.....and then spin the cas gear at the bottom of the CAS.....If all is well, the sparkplug wires will arc to the fender. Big spark at that. That is on a NORMAL car.

Wanna sota check the cas??? Pul the cas out alltogether. Put one lead of the meter on the green wire and one lead on the white wire. Put the meter on AC volts. Stare at the meter. Spin the gear on the bottom of the cas. With quick fingers, you should be able to see approx 1-2 vac on the meter.

Personally I like the first check with the cas out with its harness connected up and spinning the cas bottom gear and watching the spark from the Lead plugs on the fender. It saves the starter from burning out.

WAYNE88N/A

You said something that piqued my curiosity- exactly how many ground wires do you have running from the block to the chassis (not counting the two that are supposed to be there)...

As stated in the PM, you're inducing the resistance fluctuations by turning the CAS- it's acting like a mini-generator (just like Hailer's AC volt check above).

The wiring connects to the pickup coils- what you're refering to as "the small circular magnet-like things", but they are not magnets (although they do display the affects of an electro-magnet because of the coiled wire). These are the items responsible for "creating" the signal that's given to the ECU through the wiring...

zjbarra

iTrader: (2)

when I spin the CAS at any speed I'm getting small fluxuations in the resistance between the grounds and the signals wires like I'm supposed to. I'm also now seeing resistance between every wire in there after cleaning it up a little bit which makes me think I may have done something to get it working differently/right. How does it tell it is time to fire? does the resistance across certain leads change? Anyone?

Kenteth

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