The engine is "lubed" 1/4 second after it starts. It takes very little time for the engine to build oil pressure. Letting it idle to "warm up" just introduces a lot of moisture into the oil as the engine does not reach operating temperature to burn it off.

 

Aaron, i've heard that it isnt wise to go out boosting until the car has reached it's normal temps. So you can go ahead and drive right away, but romping is another story.

 

t2's turbos are oil and water cooled.......no need for turbo timer unless you got a big set up

 

If you have a stock engine with or without the stock water cooled Turbo, and with regular oil changes, using any method other than just shutting off the motor is a waste of money and potentially damaging to the motor.

In fact things like holding the motor at 3000 RPM then shutting off actually will wear worse than anything else. You heat the whole motor up and then dump it. Or the quick rev of the motor then turning off, just leads to making the potential of flooding a much closer to happening occurrence.

Normal driving, like pulling into parking lot or driving in a neighborhood before oulling into your parking space or garage cools the motor off just fine (even if you were driving at 120 mph on the highway, two block before). And a Turbo timer on a stock motor is just a waste of a money... yeah, lets idle the motor for another 30 to 90 seconds when it is getting the least amount of air for cooling... yeah that's smart.

Now broken or failing or heavily modified motors you may have to do some of the above tweaks... but for anything in decent condition, you are just wasting money, gas, and your motor.

 

Apexi turbo timer~

 

so where is OverbOOst... who posted this thread...how do he turn his car off.....????

 

It runs long enough for the thermostat to open up and the engine to get to 180F... oh well.

 

I just bought my FC and was wondering if the rotary engine needed some "special way" to turn it off that differs from piston engines. A Mazda dealer (talking about the RENESIS, I was asking him about rotary engines before I bought my FC) told me that they are performance cars, and you should rev and hold it at 3k for around 3 seconds before shutting it off. One of my friends said you should just give it a quick rev before turning it off. I am not mentally retarded and in fact do know that to turn your car off you need to take the keys out of the ignition. And from now on, I will treat my FC like any other car to turn it off, just take the keys out of the ignition.

 

By looking at new cars, thats a real turn off for my baby.

 

 

i just blip the throttle if the engines hot before i shut it off,

i ONLY do that though because it seems to make my wideband have a better chance of not throwing an error (due to being too hot) if i have to start up the car before everything has had a chance to turn off

if it wasnt for this, i would just shut the car off the same way i do the stratus

 

For what it's worth, the owner's manual says to idle the turbo motor for a little bit before shutting the car off (30 seconds to 2 min depending on driving, IIRC). The reason would be to cool the turbo. It said this is true of any car with a turbo. OTOH, I mentioned this a while back in some thread and others said that procedure is a remnant of the older oil cooled turbos. I can believe that the manual writers at Mazda would rather just be safe instead of verifying whether or not the cooldown actual is necessary.

 

stop, switch to off, remove key, get out, lock doors lol, oh and if its night out turn off lights hahahaha

 

I don't know about boosting, but revving the car (I know for sure under load, not sure about not under load) will produce cracks in the housing around the spark plug holes. So... don't do that.

 

Usually I just shut it off, N/A cars don't care, and as said, unless you just wound your turbo car up for 20 mins at 9k, no need for cool-down time. Even if you just came roaring down the highway ***** to the wall, if you have to stop at a light or drive through a sub-vision to get to your house, it'll be cooled down enough to just shut off.

On my TII, I pull the fuel cut switch, wait till I hear it start to sputter out then kill the ignition. Works good.

 

Well, duh.

Yes, but that's only the coolant and is basically irrelevant to keeping water out of the engine. You'd have to monitor your oil temps and see if they went up to operating temperature as well. Even then, it's not the same as driving as the oil temps will go up and down which helps purge the water and contaminates into the open air of the "crankcase" so the purge system can pull them away. The purge system needs to see driving conditions (both high and low vacuum) to do it's job.

Car's that are run for only a few minutes or on short trips almost always have rust on the inside of the oil filler neck due to moisture.

 

Just to add, the FSM also says the PCV system operates over 2000 rpm. They were sneeky about where they routed the vacuum port to the primary throttle bore before the plate. Once the plates opens to the right degree, the port is now behind the plate. Im going to guess that even when the plate is past the port while driving say at 1500rpm, there may not be enough vacuum to operate the PCV, so possibly above 2000 rpm is where enough vacuum is created...