how do you get apex seals out?(and other seals)
#26
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I don't believe there is any difference in the side housings or the irons, NA or turbo. Just the rotors, then all the stuff on the outside of the engine. Once you get down to the basic engine, it's the same.
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I started another thread on this housing issue and was told that the intake ports are different. N/A housings are six port so the front and rear housings porting isn't the same except for the intermediate housing. turbo housings are four port. I guess I will just sell the cleaned rotors and e-shaft as they are very good and then check the remaining housings for stepped wear and sell those too if the look good. then just sell all the manifolds and other parts as is. I will probably get enough money from that to almost buy a used t2 motor. can't believe I didn't notice that blown coolant jacket earlier. oh well.
#28
I THINK all s4 housings are interchangeable. As to the rotor... I think that it's usable, those nicks I don't think will make or break your engine. But, you get what you pay for. I don't think it'll last quite as long as a newer rotor.
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new rotors cost a lot too.lol. refer to my previous post and my other thread on the housings.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/n-turbo-front-side-irons-interchangable-832264/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/n-turbo-front-side-irons-interchangable-832264/
#31
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oh. no, I am talking about the SIDE housing, not the rotor housings. yes, they are also referred to as irons. I need the front iron not the rotor housing (although, I have not checked mine yet). I have found intermediate and rear irons for around 50 but the front I can not find for less then 250.
#32
What I've read on Mazdatrix and Pineapple racing they say that new rotor housings really make a difference in engine life. According to pineapple racing re-using a housing cuts the life of the rebuild in about a half. So, I guess it's up to you.
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Sorry about the bad info there. So many things to research. My application doesn't need anything but the basic motor itself, so anyhtnig hanging outside the housings is unimportant. I'll post a photo of the striped motor. I'm not familiar with the S4 or S5 and exactly what that means yet.
It originally was a turbo, but I'm swapping to NA rotors, then going to P-Port. I'll be building the intake, exhaust, EFI and iignition allfrom scratch. Going into an airplane, so emissions don't matter. Probably goint to use Mazdatrix lightweight center and end housings as well.
I'll be selling the rest. turbo, exhaust manifolds, intercooler, intake, fuel delivery, and now it looks like the irons too. Did Imention the engine wiring harness?
You say you need a new front iron? Turbo?
So far, I know my engine is "89-92 vintage turbo. Manual transmission too.
It originally was a turbo, but I'm swapping to NA rotors, then going to P-Port. I'll be building the intake, exhaust, EFI and iignition allfrom scratch. Going into an airplane, so emissions don't matter. Probably goint to use Mazdatrix lightweight center and end housings as well.
I'll be selling the rest. turbo, exhaust manifolds, intercooler, intake, fuel delivery, and now it looks like the irons too. Did Imention the engine wiring harness?
You say you need a new front iron? Turbo?
So far, I know my engine is "89-92 vintage turbo. Manual transmission too.
#34
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ya, s4 are 86-88 and s5 are 89-92. I was told s4 and s5 turbo front irons are interchangeble. How much you willing to let your front iron go for? I will be needing a turbo,turbo manifold, and intercooler too so give me some prices on those while you're at it. thanks. maybe I will take some of that off your hands but I still need my money for seals and other rebuild parts so depends on your prices.
#35
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Importtuner has been giving some bad information...and sounds like he doesn't know much about rebuild. I'm no pro but I've done a few rebuilds...
The scratches on the rotor are nothing to worry about. What you need to check are the grooves where the seals go. Make sure there are no burrs. Might want to run a piece of white paper back and forth through all the grooves to feel for snags.
As for the scratches in the picture...if they're not too deep, use a file and smooth down any burrs. Then use sand paper to polish the area smooth.
Read the Haynes or FSM books about how to check the rotor grooves and faces for wear and warping using feeler gauges, straight edge, calipers...
Inspect all your seals and make sure they're within specs.
I'd be cautious about which parts you reuse. The e-shaft looks like the engine was overheated.
S4 and S5 irons and housings are different. The spark plugs are in different locations on the housings. The housing shouldn't be mixed. The turbo and N/A irons have different ports. N/A end irons have 2 small ports. One if for the actuator. Turbo end irons have one single port. Turbo and N/A end plates can't be mixed.
How do your housings look? Inspect them for smoothness. Check the edges for flaking. Post close up pics if you want...think about the inner surface of the housings like a piston cylinder wall. You don't want any scratches, irregularities, gouges, etc...
The scratches on the rotor are nothing to worry about. What you need to check are the grooves where the seals go. Make sure there are no burrs. Might want to run a piece of white paper back and forth through all the grooves to feel for snags.
As for the scratches in the picture...if they're not too deep, use a file and smooth down any burrs. Then use sand paper to polish the area smooth.
Read the Haynes or FSM books about how to check the rotor grooves and faces for wear and warping using feeler gauges, straight edge, calipers...
Inspect all your seals and make sure they're within specs.
I'd be cautious about which parts you reuse. The e-shaft looks like the engine was overheated.
S4 and S5 irons and housings are different. The spark plugs are in different locations on the housings. The housing shouldn't be mixed. The turbo and N/A irons have different ports. N/A end irons have 2 small ports. One if for the actuator. Turbo end irons have one single port. Turbo and N/A end plates can't be mixed.
How do your housings look? Inspect them for smoothness. Check the edges for flaking. Post close up pics if you want...think about the inner surface of the housings like a piston cylinder wall. You don't want any scratches, irregularities, gouges, etc...
#36
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I'm checking the intermediate iron right now. i need to pick up feeler gauges to check for warping but my friend has a dial indicator and we think (assuming it won't be warped) that it is reusable. I haven't gotten around to the rotor housings yet. I am starting to understand though that there is no such thing as a budget rebuild if you are trying to do it all at once.
oh, and if my e-shaft has been overheated, is it still usable? it checked almost perfect. thanks a lot. will post pics sometime during the week of the rotor housings.
oh, and if my e-shaft has been overheated, is it still usable? it checked almost perfect. thanks a lot. will post pics sometime during the week of the rotor housings.
#38
most of the "used" housings that people use are in really **** poor shape, hence the recommendations to stay away from them. the biggest things that are going to affect compression on a used housing is the wear on the edge of the bottom part of the chrome surface, cracks in the spark plug hole area, and deep scratches that can catch a fingernail. if the housing has any of those flaws most would consider it barely usable at best.
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...Rotor_Housings
watch that, it taught me a lot. also look at the Haynes manual specs.
http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.c...Rotor_Housings
watch that, it taught me a lot. also look at the Haynes manual specs.
#39
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arghx- lol, that's the site I have mostly been referring to to help me understand how to check the parts. I also have been using my haynes manual. I visually inspected my rotor housing last night and there is no chrome flake at all and no scratches or niccs that would catch a fingernail. my friend has to take them to work because he only has 2" micrometer a but his work has a 4" we can check the rotor housings with. I think he might be coming over from work today so we can take some pics of the housings with his camera. he works 5 minutes away from my house.
everyone- if someone is wrong on some info, that's okay. as long as others are here to correct that info, we all learn more. If anyone isn't sure on something, just make a note of your uncertainty in your post. This thread is to help me through an engine rebuild pretty much but if someone else can learn something then that's a plus
also, can I re-use my e-shaft as long as it checks good (mines almost perfect) but has been overheated before?
everyone- if someone is wrong on some info, that's okay. as long as others are here to correct that info, we all learn more. If anyone isn't sure on something, just make a note of your uncertainty in your post. This thread is to help me through an engine rebuild pretty much but if someone else can learn something then that's a plus
also, can I re-use my e-shaft as long as it checks good (mines almost perfect) but has been overheated before?
#40
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since we're on the topic of apex seals I figured I would ask my question, I'm rebuilding my motor too and I didn't lose an apex seal, it's the coolant and oil seals that are shot on mine. I don't want to replace the apex seals (tho if I have to I will). while the motor is out for the port, should I remove the apex seals while the motor the housings/irons are getting ported or are they ok staying in the rotor?
also my compression is 105 +/- 5 psi rear rotor and 100 +/- front rotor
also my compression is 105 +/- 5 psi rear rotor and 100 +/- front rotor
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I am not sure if this engine has been overheated but it did blow out the coolant jacket on the bottom side of the front rotor housing, all the seals on the front rotor were very difficult to get out, and I think the front rotor might be junk. the wells on the face of the rotor look worn a lot towards one side. here's a cell pic of what I am talking about, once again sorry for quality of pic. also, I have not cleaned or checked this rotor yet. hoping to have that done tomorrow along with the rotor housings. thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it.
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really? the other side has the same three wells but the 2 smaller ones look the same depth while this side looks like that left well is almost non-existant. I guess I will find out tomorrow if this rotor passes inspection. I'm hoping you're right RX3SP.
#45
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Sorry, there's going to be a bit of a delay on the rebuild for a couple days so I won't be able to check parts yet. It'll get done soon though, regular posters in this thread stay tuned please, I appreciate your help! thanks
#46
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Your parts that your putting back in the motor look pretty good.
Yes, S4 housings and irons are different. YES, you CAN use S4 housings on a S5 block as long as you use both S4 housings and you transfer over the S5 turbo diffusers to the N/A housings (the metal pieces that are held in the exhaust port by a pin). Do not use 1 S4 housing and 1 S5. Make sure to swap the diffuser or you'll be blocking exhaust flow when you reassemble the motor.
Honestly, you could swap to the N/A irons if you wanted to, but you would have to buy a different lower intake manifold (sold on this forum) to match up to the irons.
Yes, S4 housings and irons are different. YES, you CAN use S4 housings on a S5 block as long as you use both S4 housings and you transfer over the S5 turbo diffusers to the N/A housings (the metal pieces that are held in the exhaust port by a pin). Do not use 1 S4 housing and 1 S5. Make sure to swap the diffuser or you'll be blocking exhaust flow when you reassemble the motor.
Honestly, you could swap to the N/A irons if you wanted to, but you would have to buy a different lower intake manifold (sold on this forum) to match up to the irons.
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k, it's been a while. just getting back into checking things but no money to spend on seals yet as I've been out of work.
anyway, anyone know about all those grooves on the sides of my rotor? cause the other rotor only has the grooves like that in the tubs, not all over the entire side of the rotor. I'm thinking it's not a big deal since only the apex seals touch the housing.
also, picked up a new front iron a while back, yet to check it because no feeler gauges. yes my budgets become so tight I don't want to spend $10 on feeler gauges.lol.
still planning on rebuilding...someday. maybe when I can find a job. job market sucks in northern vermont.
anyway, anyone know about all those grooves on the sides of my rotor? cause the other rotor only has the grooves like that in the tubs, not all over the entire side of the rotor. I'm thinking it's not a big deal since only the apex seals touch the housing.
also, picked up a new front iron a while back, yet to check it because no feeler gauges. yes my budgets become so tight I don't want to spend $10 on feeler gauges.lol.
still planning on rebuilding...someday. maybe when I can find a job. job market sucks in northern vermont.
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