How do you change comp ratio in a rotary engine?
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How do you change comp ratio in a rotary engine?
Let me 1st say I know how to build "boinger" engines and Im not Jonny Ricer asking HoW d0 I mAkE da POWA wit a TUBRO!?@?!111
However, I will say this, I amm a complete NEWBIE when it comes to rotarys. I understand the reason behind lowering the compression ratio in a forced induction car because the boost will effective raise the comp ratio. Forgd internals are also needed to advoid detonation when it occurs so the engine doesn't go boom. I know knock because of detonation should be advoided at all costs, this I udnerstand. One way to do this is lower incomming temps and/or more fuel. All engines work that way.
Ok, so here is the million dollar question: Why cant I just turbo a N/A rotary? Im going to try to answer my own questions here a little bit.
1a. different Camshafts. A turbo spec cam is different than a N/A cam... Yeah sorry, I had to throw that in there, Im not that much of a complete newbie
1b. The computer is different. This can be remedied by a stand-alone ecu.
2. Lesser fuel pump/injectors. Even In a turbo model, I would upgrade.
3. Compression Ratio like I said above. Stock compression on a 2g 13b is 9.4. A turbo 2's is 8.5. How the hell do you change comp ratios in a rotary? Different Rotors? Would changing the rotors help? higher comp ratio will make a turbo spool faster in a "boinger" so running al little less PSI in a more effiecnt range turbo might be a good trade-off (think DMS, 8.5 in 1g with a 14b, 9.5 in a 2g with a t25, they are the same speed despite the vast turbo size difference.)
4. Strong internals. I hear Apex seals like to go, but thats true of them all. Of course I would go with heavy-duty ones if I rebuilt it. However, will a rotor "detonate" like a piston and fail? How are the rotors different in the turbo models?
5. tranny and rear-end. The turbo models are much mroe likely to have a stronger tranny, clutch, standard LSD, and gear ratios. However I would upgrade a stock T2's everything listed above so again, I dont see the problem.
6. Fuel. Pump to the injectors. Of course, I would upgrade either cars. (N/A or turbo)
Well that about sums it up for questions. Here is my plan. The only reason I am contemplating this vs buying a stock T2 is because I like to build my cars. I would be doing the exact same upgrade, the only difference is that I can put suporting mods on a stock turbo and it will be faster and cheaper than building a N/A, but in the long run the N/A upgrade to turbo specs would be just as fast. Im talking
Standalone ECU, fuel, clutch, LSD, t4 60-1 to name a few. I know whee to get msot of the parts and I've added it up.
Another reason is that T2's are rare. The closest one from me is 100 miles away and I REALLY dont want that one (it used to be owned by a friend, I do NOT want it as I know its problems) 2nd Closest one is 275+ miles away for to much $$$. Plus I can find cleaner, lower-mileage N/A's for cheaper. Plus it would be cheaper on insurance as well.
Anyway what are some of your guys thoguhs on this. I know it will cost more in the long run. Tell me the advantages and/or the disadvantages of doing it my way vs buying a stock t2 for $6,000 or more, or buying a N/A for $2500 or less and then turboing it for $5000 or so (including suport mods)
Any info on the RX7s would be aperichated really. A vendor list would be cool as well.
However, I will say this, I amm a complete NEWBIE when it comes to rotarys. I understand the reason behind lowering the compression ratio in a forced induction car because the boost will effective raise the comp ratio. Forgd internals are also needed to advoid detonation when it occurs so the engine doesn't go boom. I know knock because of detonation should be advoided at all costs, this I udnerstand. One way to do this is lower incomming temps and/or more fuel. All engines work that way.
Ok, so here is the million dollar question: Why cant I just turbo a N/A rotary? Im going to try to answer my own questions here a little bit.
1a. different Camshafts. A turbo spec cam is different than a N/A cam... Yeah sorry, I had to throw that in there, Im not that much of a complete newbie
1b. The computer is different. This can be remedied by a stand-alone ecu.
2. Lesser fuel pump/injectors. Even In a turbo model, I would upgrade.
3. Compression Ratio like I said above. Stock compression on a 2g 13b is 9.4. A turbo 2's is 8.5. How the hell do you change comp ratios in a rotary? Different Rotors? Would changing the rotors help? higher comp ratio will make a turbo spool faster in a "boinger" so running al little less PSI in a more effiecnt range turbo might be a good trade-off (think DMS, 8.5 in 1g with a 14b, 9.5 in a 2g with a t25, they are the same speed despite the vast turbo size difference.)
4. Strong internals. I hear Apex seals like to go, but thats true of them all. Of course I would go with heavy-duty ones if I rebuilt it. However, will a rotor "detonate" like a piston and fail? How are the rotors different in the turbo models?
5. tranny and rear-end. The turbo models are much mroe likely to have a stronger tranny, clutch, standard LSD, and gear ratios. However I would upgrade a stock T2's everything listed above so again, I dont see the problem.
6. Fuel. Pump to the injectors. Of course, I would upgrade either cars. (N/A or turbo)
Well that about sums it up for questions. Here is my plan. The only reason I am contemplating this vs buying a stock T2 is because I like to build my cars. I would be doing the exact same upgrade, the only difference is that I can put suporting mods on a stock turbo and it will be faster and cheaper than building a N/A, but in the long run the N/A upgrade to turbo specs would be just as fast. Im talking
Standalone ECU, fuel, clutch, LSD, t4 60-1 to name a few. I know whee to get msot of the parts and I've added it up.
Another reason is that T2's are rare. The closest one from me is 100 miles away and I REALLY dont want that one (it used to be owned by a friend, I do NOT want it as I know its problems) 2nd Closest one is 275+ miles away for to much $$$. Plus I can find cleaner, lower-mileage N/A's for cheaper. Plus it would be cheaper on insurance as well.
Anyway what are some of your guys thoguhs on this. I know it will cost more in the long run. Tell me the advantages and/or the disadvantages of doing it my way vs buying a stock t2 for $6,000 or more, or buying a N/A for $2500 or less and then turboing it for $5000 or so (including suport mods)
Any info on the RX7s would be aperichated really. A vendor list would be cool as well.
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Originally Posted by bigjoe25
Let me 1st say I know how to build "boinger" engines and Im not Jonny Ricer asking HoW d0 I mAkE da POWA wit a TUBRO!?@?!111
However, I will say this, I amm a complete NEWBIE when it comes to rotarys. I understand the reason behind lowering the compression ratio in a forced induction car because the boost will effective raise the comp ratio. Forgd internals are also needed to advoid detonation when it occurs so the engine doesn't go boom. I know knock because of detonation should be advoided at all costs, this I udnerstand. One way to do this is lower incomming temps and/or more fuel. All engines work that way.
Ok, so here is the million dollar question: Why cant I just turbo a N/A rotary?
However, I will say this, I amm a complete NEWBIE when it comes to rotarys. I understand the reason behind lowering the compression ratio in a forced induction car because the boost will effective raise the comp ratio. Forgd internals are also needed to advoid detonation when it occurs so the engine doesn't go boom. I know knock because of detonation should be advoided at all costs, this I udnerstand. One way to do this is lower incomming temps and/or more fuel. All engines work that way.
Ok, so here is the million dollar question: Why cant I just turbo a N/A rotary?
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
Im going to try to answer my own questions here a little bit.
1a. different Camshafts. A turbo spec cam is different than a N/A cam... Yeah sorry, I had to throw that in there, Im not that much of a complete newbie
1b. The computer is different. This can be remedied by a stand-alone ecu.
2. Lesser fuel pump/injectors. Even In a turbo model, I would upgrade.
3. Compression Ratio like I said above. Stock compression on a 2g 13b is 9.4. A turbo 2's is 8.5. How the hell do you change comp ratios in a rotary? Different Rotors? Would changing the rotors help? higher comp ratio will make a turbo spool faster in a "boinger" so running al little less PSI in a more effiecnt range turbo might be a good trade-off (think DMS, 8.5 in 1g with a 14b, 9.5 in a 2g with a t25, they are the same speed despite the vast turbo size difference.)
1a. different Camshafts. A turbo spec cam is different than a N/A cam... Yeah sorry, I had to throw that in there, Im not that much of a complete newbie
1b. The computer is different. This can be remedied by a stand-alone ecu.
2. Lesser fuel pump/injectors. Even In a turbo model, I would upgrade.
3. Compression Ratio like I said above. Stock compression on a 2g 13b is 9.4. A turbo 2's is 8.5. How the hell do you change comp ratios in a rotary? Different Rotors? Would changing the rotors help? higher comp ratio will make a turbo spool faster in a "boinger" so running al little less PSI in a more effiecnt range turbo might be a good trade-off (think DMS, 8.5 in 1g with a 14b, 9.5 in a 2g with a t25, they are the same speed despite the vast turbo size difference.)
To answer your question more precisely: Yes, change the rotors OR have them machined. Machining them to change the compression ratio is costly, though
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
4. Strong internals. I hear Apex seals like to go, but thats true of them all. Of course I would go with heavy-duty ones if I rebuilt it. However, will a rotor "detonate" like a piston and fail? How are the rotors different in the turbo models?
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
5. tranny and rear-end. The turbo models are much mroe likely to have a stronger tranny, clutch, standard LSD, and gear ratios. However I would upgrade a stock T2's everything listed above so again, I dont see the problem.
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
6. Fuel. Pump to the injectors. Of course, I would upgrade either cars. (N/A or turbo)
Well that about sums it up for questions. Here is my plan. The only reason I am contemplating this vs buying a stock T2 is because I like to build my cars.
Well that about sums it up for questions. Here is my plan. The only reason I am contemplating this vs buying a stock T2 is because I like to build my cars.
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
I would be doing the exact same upgrade, the only difference is that I can put suporting mods on a stock turbo and it will be faster and cheaper than building a N/A, but in the long run the N/A upgrade to turbo specs would be just as fast. Im talking
Standalone ECU, fuel, clutch, LSD, t4 60-1 to name a few. I know whee to get msot of the parts and I've added it up.
Another reason is that T2's are rare. The closest one from me is 100 miles away and I REALLY dont want that one (it used to be owned by a friend, I do NOT want it as I know its problems) 2nd Closest one is 275+ miles away for to much $$$. Plus I can find cleaner, lower-mileage N/A's for cheaper. Plus it would be cheaper on insurance as well.
Anyway what are some of your guys thoguhs on this. I know it will cost more in the long run. Tell me the advantages and/or the disadvantages of doing it my way vs buying a stock t2 for $6,000 or more, or buying a N/A for $2500 or less and then turboing it for $5000 or so (including suport mods)
Any info on the RX7s would be aperichated really. A vendor list would be cool as well.
Standalone ECU, fuel, clutch, LSD, t4 60-1 to name a few. I know whee to get msot of the parts and I've added it up.
Another reason is that T2's are rare. The closest one from me is 100 miles away and I REALLY dont want that one (it used to be owned by a friend, I do NOT want it as I know its problems) 2nd Closest one is 275+ miles away for to much $$$. Plus I can find cleaner, lower-mileage N/A's for cheaper. Plus it would be cheaper on insurance as well.
Anyway what are some of your guys thoguhs on this. I know it will cost more in the long run. Tell me the advantages and/or the disadvantages of doing it my way vs buying a stock t2 for $6,000 or more, or buying a N/A for $2500 or less and then turboing it for $5000 or so (including suport mods)
Any info on the RX7s would be aperichated really. A vendor list would be cool as well.
#3
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Rotary basics:
Compression ratio is determined strictly by the face shape of the rotor.
Pro:
No cam line with its friction, load, size, and weight penalty.
No valve heads & stems to impede flow.
All timing & flow issues are controlled by the shape & size of the ports. (5 per chamber on the Renesis)
The stroke (eccentric) is very short, so revs can go high and torque will be low & broad. You don't see a sharp torque peak.
Reciprocating mass is zero and rotating (balanced) mass is low.
Con:
The metal clearance angle behind the compression seal at the apex is ~60 degrees. (With a piston its 90)
This leaves less tolerance for detonation stress.
Compression ratio is determined strictly by the face shape of the rotor.
Pro:
No cam line with its friction, load, size, and weight penalty.
No valve heads & stems to impede flow.
All timing & flow issues are controlled by the shape & size of the ports. (5 per chamber on the Renesis)
The stroke (eccentric) is very short, so revs can go high and torque will be low & broad. You don't see a sharp torque peak.
Reciprocating mass is zero and rotating (balanced) mass is low.
Con:
The metal clearance angle behind the compression seal at the apex is ~60 degrees. (With a piston its 90)
This leaves less tolerance for detonation stress.
Last edited by SureShot; 06-06-05 at 09:58 AM.
#4
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
Let me 1st say I know how to build "boinger" engines and Im not Jonny Ricer asking HoW d0 I mAkE da POWA wit a TUBRO!?@?!111
However, I will say this, I amm a complete NEWBIE when it comes to rotarys. I understand the reason behind lowering the compression ratio in a forced induction car because the boost will effective raise the comp ratio. Forgd internals are also needed to advoid detonation when it occurs so the engine doesn't go boom. I know knock because of detonation should be advoided at all costs, this I udnerstand. One way to do this is lower incomming temps and/or more fuel. All engines work that way.
Ok, so here is the million dollar question: Why cant I just turbo a N/A rotary? Im going to try to answer my own questions here a little bit.
However, I will say this, I amm a complete NEWBIE when it comes to rotarys. I understand the reason behind lowering the compression ratio in a forced induction car because the boost will effective raise the comp ratio. Forgd internals are also needed to advoid detonation when it occurs so the engine doesn't go boom. I know knock because of detonation should be advoided at all costs, this I udnerstand. One way to do this is lower incomming temps and/or more fuel. All engines work that way.
Ok, so here is the million dollar question: Why cant I just turbo a N/A rotary? Im going to try to answer my own questions here a little bit.
You see all the stickies at the top of EVERY page?
You should try and click them - you'd be amazed that your last question is actually answered in there...
-Ted
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
Let me 1st say I know how to build "boinger" engines and Im not Jonny Ricer asking HoW d0 I mAkE da POWA wit a TUBRO!?@?!111
Forgd internals are also needed to advoid detonation when it occurs so the engine doesn't go boom.
I know knock because of detonation should be advoided at all costs, this I udnerstand. One way to do this is lower incomming temps and/or more fuel. All engines work that way.
Ok, so here is the million dollar question: Why cant I just turbo a N/A rotary? Im going to try to answer my own questions here a little bit.
1a. different Camshafts. A turbo spec cam is different than a N/A cam... Yeah sorry, I had to throw that in there, Im not that much of a complete newbie
1b. The computer is different. This can be remedied by a stand-alone ecu.
2. Lesser fuel pump/injectors. Even In a turbo model, I would upgrade.
2. Lesser fuel pump/injectors. Even In a turbo model, I would upgrade.
3. Compression Ratio like I said above. Stock compression on a 2g 13b is 9.4. A turbo 2's is 8.5. How the hell do you change comp ratios in a rotary? Different Rotors? Would changing the rotors help? higher comp ratio will make a turbo spool faster in a "boinger" so running al little less PSI in a more effiecnt range turbo might be a good trade-off (think DMS, 8.5 in 1g with a 14b, 9.5 in a 2g with a t25, they are the same speed despite the vast turbo size difference.)
4. Strong internals. I hear Apex seals like to go, but thats true of them all. Of course I would go with heavy-duty ones if I rebuilt it. However, will a rotor "detonate" like a piston and fail? How are the rotors different in the turbo models?
5. tranny and rear-end. The turbo models are much mroe likely to have a stronger tranny, clutch, standard LSD, and gear ratios. However I would upgrade a stock T2's everything listed above so again, I dont see the problem.
6. Fuel. Pump to the injectors. Of course, I would upgrade either cars. (N/A or turbo)
Well that about sums it up for questions. Here is my plan. The only reason I am contemplating this vs buying a stock T2 is because I like to build my cars. I would be doing the exact same upgrade, the only difference is that I can put suporting mods on a stock turbo and it will be faster and cheaper than building a N/A, but in the long run the N/A upgrade to turbo specs would be just as fast. Im talking
Standalone ECU, fuel, clutch, LSD, t4 60-1 to name a few. I know whee to get msot of the parts and I've added it up.
Another reason is that T2's are rare. The closest one from me is 100 miles away and I REALLY dont want that one (it used to be owned by a friend, I do NOT want it as I know its problems) 2nd Closest one is 275+ miles away for to much $$$. Plus I can find cleaner, lower-mileage N/A's for cheaper. Plus it would be cheaper on insurance as well.
Anyway what are some of your guys thoguhs on this. I know it will cost more in the long run. Tell me the advantages and/or the disadvantages of doing it my way vs buying a stock t2 for $6,000 or more, or buying a N/A for $2500 or less and then turboing it for $5000 or so (including suport mods)
Any info on the RX7s would be aperichated really. A vendor list would be cool as well.
Standalone ECU, fuel, clutch, LSD, t4 60-1 to name a few. I know whee to get msot of the parts and I've added it up.
Another reason is that T2's are rare. The closest one from me is 100 miles away and I REALLY dont want that one (it used to be owned by a friend, I do NOT want it as I know its problems) 2nd Closest one is 275+ miles away for to much $$$. Plus I can find cleaner, lower-mileage N/A's for cheaper. Plus it would be cheaper on insurance as well.
Anyway what are some of your guys thoguhs on this. I know it will cost more in the long run. Tell me the advantages and/or the disadvantages of doing it my way vs buying a stock t2 for $6,000 or more, or buying a N/A for $2500 or less and then turboing it for $5000 or so (including suport mods)
Any info on the RX7s would be aperichated really. A vendor list would be cool as well.
Last edited by Icemark; 06-06-05 at 11:03 AM.
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Thanks to eveyone who has posted! Im not sure what my goals will be, I will b looking at everything from a broad view. Im leaning toward just buying a stock T2 to advoid head-aches in the future.
BTW thank you RETed, you post was the most inspirational out of the rest posted. You're insigt on my dilemma has proven most helpful and I beleive you carried this thread to completion. You are are great human being and deserve the nobel prize for literature. I would say peace as well, but that might already be taken.
Seriously though, at least other people comented on why it's not smart to turbo an N/A due to the fact of the drive-line will break and if I go to the hassle of upgrading the drive-line I might as well bought a t2 in the 1st place. If you don't have anything to contribute, why even post?
Turboing a rotarty is 100X easier than turboing a boinger. I have turboed a couple N/A cars with big sucess, one being a 240sx (ka24de) and the other being a friends Honda. The fiend didnt go with forged internals and still had higher comp and everything about his engine has failed and is not having the pwoer output like he wanted. My 240 had just a hair under 500 HP and the only reason I got rid of it was because someone offered me a price I couldn't refuse and a daily driver car to go with it.
If anything, I think Imight save up for a FD, but the weak Apex seals kinda scares me away. I could afford a new Rx8, but they have become more of a Grand touring car than a true sports car.
BTW thank you RETed, you post was the most inspirational out of the rest posted. You're insigt on my dilemma has proven most helpful and I beleive you carried this thread to completion. You are are great human being and deserve the nobel prize for literature. I would say peace as well, but that might already be taken.
Seriously though, at least other people comented on why it's not smart to turbo an N/A due to the fact of the drive-line will break and if I go to the hassle of upgrading the drive-line I might as well bought a t2 in the 1st place. If you don't have anything to contribute, why even post?
Turboing a rotarty is 100X easier than turboing a boinger. I have turboed a couple N/A cars with big sucess, one being a 240sx (ka24de) and the other being a friends Honda. The fiend didnt go with forged internals and still had higher comp and everything about his engine has failed and is not having the pwoer output like he wanted. My 240 had just a hair under 500 HP and the only reason I got rid of it was because someone offered me a price I couldn't refuse and a daily driver car to go with it.
If anything, I think Imight save up for a FD, but the weak Apex seals kinda scares me away. I could afford a new Rx8, but they have become more of a Grand touring car than a true sports car.
Last edited by bigjoe25; 06-06-05 at 10:28 PM.
#7
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
Thanks to eveyone who has posted! Im not sure what my goals will be, I will b looking at everything from a broad view. Im leaning toward just buying a stock T2 to advoid head-aches in the future.
BTW thank you RETed, you post was the most inspirational out of the rest posted. You're insigt on my dilemma has proven most helpful and I beleive you carried this thread to completion. You are are great human being and deserve the nobel prize for literature. I would say peace as well, but that might already be taken.
Seriously though, at least other people comented on why it's not smart to turbo an N/A due to the fact of the drive-line will break and if I go to the hassle of upgrading the drive-line I might as well bought a t2 in the 1st place. If you don't have anything to contribute, why even post?
Turboing a rotarty is 100X easier than turboing a boinger. I have turboed a couple N/A cars with big sucess, one being a 240sx (ka24de) and the other being a friends Honda. The fiend didnt go with forged internals and still had higher comp and everything about his engine has failed and is not having the pwoer output like he wanted. My 240 had just a hair under 500 HP and the only reason I got rid of it was because someone offered me a price I couldn't refuse and a daily driver car to go with it.
If anything, I think Imight save up for a FD, but the weak Apex seals kinda scares me away. I could afford a new Rx8, but they have become more of a Grand touring car than a true sports car.
BTW thank you RETed, you post was the most inspirational out of the rest posted. You're insigt on my dilemma has proven most helpful and I beleive you carried this thread to completion. You are are great human being and deserve the nobel prize for literature. I would say peace as well, but that might already be taken.
Seriously though, at least other people comented on why it's not smart to turbo an N/A due to the fact of the drive-line will break and if I go to the hassle of upgrading the drive-line I might as well bought a t2 in the 1st place. If you don't have anything to contribute, why even post?
Turboing a rotarty is 100X easier than turboing a boinger. I have turboed a couple N/A cars with big sucess, one being a 240sx (ka24de) and the other being a friends Honda. The fiend didnt go with forged internals and still had higher comp and everything about his engine has failed and is not having the pwoer output like he wanted. My 240 had just a hair under 500 HP and the only reason I got rid of it was because someone offered me a price I couldn't refuse and a daily driver car to go with it.
If anything, I think Imight save up for a FD, but the weak Apex seals kinda scares me away. I could afford a new Rx8, but they have become more of a Grand touring car than a true sports car.
Also you don't need forced induction for big HP. Actually you should of done you're homework before buying a NA over a TII. Impulse spender perhaps? I would think with the cash you make turboing every car and having a 500hp 240 would easily get you into a FD range (or something simular). And FYI, all cars with apex seals may break. Just the same as any piston engine can throw a rod ;o!
Now be nice
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#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
If anything, I think Imight save up for a FD, but the weak Apex seals kinda scares me away.
I could afford a new Rx8, but they have become more of a Grand touring car than a true sports car.
#9
I break Diff mounts
iTrader: (1)
Since you are asking these questions I do not recommend a Turbo conversion on an NA block.
You really need to know your 13b before you take on a project like that.
I would say a 13BT conversion would be easier than 13b/Turbo'd.
As well.
My only deterrant from turbo'ing NA blocks is that the Tuning/knowledge base for 13BT's are insanely huge compared to turbo NA's.
On a NA you will need to do lots of custom tuning to get it in runnning condition.
On a TII block you just throw an Rtek 1.7 ECU in with 720's and a boost controller and your set for a good 20+hp increase over stock.
You really need to know your 13b before you take on a project like that.
I would say a 13BT conversion would be easier than 13b/Turbo'd.
As well.
My only deterrant from turbo'ing NA blocks is that the Tuning/knowledge base for 13BT's are insanely huge compared to turbo NA's.
On a NA you will need to do lots of custom tuning to get it in runnning condition.
On a TII block you just throw an Rtek 1.7 ECU in with 720's and a boost controller and your set for a good 20+hp increase over stock.
#10
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by Icemark
what makes you think the apex seals are any weaker on a FD than a FC or any other rotary??? Now you do sound clueless.
Clueless?
I concur.
I think he should stick to piston engines.
-Ted
#11
i'll blow YOUR valve off
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well don't talk THAT much **** on the drivetrain for a 86-88 na... it's gonna take more than 250 HP to blow the tranny/rear end.. this i know is true...
if you decide to turbo the na, the tranny/rear end wil be the least of your worries
aaroncake.com or .net or whatever has a good guide... you'll find your internals don't need much help. YOu aren't putting any stress on internals compared to a piston where the rods/pistons are having to stop and go with each rotation. unless you're running REALLY high boost, the only way to kill your engine is to **** your timing up or lean out and detonate, and other similar situations
if you decide to turbo the na, the tranny/rear end wil be the least of your worries
aaroncake.com or .net or whatever has a good guide... you'll find your internals don't need much help. YOu aren't putting any stress on internals compared to a piston where the rods/pistons are having to stop and go with each rotation. unless you're running REALLY high boost, the only way to kill your engine is to **** your timing up or lean out and detonate, and other similar situations
#12
I'm a boost creep...
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Originally Posted by Icemark
...no just increasing fuel on a rotary will result in lower HP output.
Originally Posted by bigjoe25
Turboing a rotarty is 100X easier than turboing a boinger.
I could afford a new Rx8, but they have become more of a Grand touring car than a true sports car.
#14
Passing life by
Originally Posted by dDuB
RX8 is a 4 door family sport coupe
Just my opinion
Just my opinion
#15
i am legendary
Originally Posted by iceblue
Seeing we both have the same cars. I think the 8 is the best production track car other then C5 under 90k that I have ever drove. Underpowerd for its superior capabilitys but incredable car to drive on the track. A barrel of fun in my opinion!
In my 3rd week of owning my rx8 I took a normal 90º turn at about 20mph in 2nd gear, hit the gas a little during the turn and got shot completely sideways. Then a week ago with damp ground (not very wet and not raining at the time) I was taking a turn at a light and spun 180º and ended up facing some shocked drivers in the other lane.
It handles pretty well for a stock car, but far from a track car that's for sure.
#16
Passing life by
Originally Posted by dDuB
Huh? Track car? Obviously you haven't pushed your rx8 very far then, because I must say in stock form it is VERY limited! My 2nd gen owns the hell out of it, even did before my coilovers/suspension upgrades!
In my 3rd week of owning my rx8 I took a normal 90º turn at about 20mph in 2nd gear, hit the gas a little during the turn and got shot completely sideways. Then a week ago with damp ground (not very wet and not raining at the time) I was taking a turn at a light and spun 180º and ended up facing some shocked drivers in the other lane.
It handles pretty well for a stock car, but far from a track car that's for sure.
In my 3rd week of owning my rx8 I took a normal 90º turn at about 20mph in 2nd gear, hit the gas a little during the turn and got shot completely sideways. Then a week ago with damp ground (not very wet and not raining at the time) I was taking a turn at a light and spun 180º and ended up facing some shocked drivers in the other lane.
It handles pretty well for a stock car, but far from a track car that's for sure.
Last edited by iceblue; 06-08-05 at 02:49 AM.
#17
i am legendary
Maybe, but I also don't have Traction Control. Traction control is for people that need the extra help, no offense
And 90º turns at 60mph? Sorry but I'm gonna have to say a big BS unless you are taking HUGE sweeps into the turn and taking them very wide.
And like I said my 2nd gen owns my rx8 at handling, of course my 2nd gen is far from a stock suspension, so it's a bit hard to compare the two. But I have yet to be able to lose traction when pushing my 2nd gen, rx8 has happened a few times now.
And 90º turns at 60mph? Sorry but I'm gonna have to say a big BS unless you are taking HUGE sweeps into the turn and taking them very wide.
And like I said my 2nd gen owns my rx8 at handling, of course my 2nd gen is far from a stock suspension, so it's a bit hard to compare the two. But I have yet to be able to lose traction when pushing my 2nd gen, rx8 has happened a few times now.
Last edited by ddub; 06-08-05 at 03:13 AM.
#18
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by iceblue
Seeing we both have the same cars. I think the 8 is the best production track car other then C5 under 90k that I have ever drove. Underpowerd for its superior capabilitys but incredable car to drive on the track. A barrel of fun in my opinion!
How about a Miata?
How about a Z3 or M-Coupe?
-Ted
#20
Passing life by
I drove the v8 M3 rodster at the honda delarship when my friend was the car joky :-) handled like *** was fast as *****! M3 coup no. Miata read my post below where I have one or my signature. Z3 and 4 I realy had no liking for them. :-/ maybe my driving style.
#21
Passing life by
Originally Posted by dDuB
And 90º turns at 60mph? Sorry but I'm gonna have to say a big BS unless you are taking HUGE sweeps into the turn and taking them very wide.
#23
Passing life by
Originally Posted by dDuB
You may have TC there, I do not. I got an RX8 without that option
Same with DSC (dynamic stability control)
Same with DSC (dynamic stability control)
#24
i am legendary
Meh, I didn't want any of that crap. I got a Base model rx8 with NO options other than what they all come with standard. I wanted the lightest, least amount of frills rx8 I could. Now my rx8 weighed in at 3005 in stock form, if I could get it down to 2900 I'd be content, but once you start adding a bunch of the stupid options it just keeps getting heavier.