How do you adjust the timing on a rotary?
#1
How do you adjust the timing on a rotary?
I put a rebuild in my car. I've let it run non-stop for hours and hours, either the compression is still bad, or I think the timing is bad. When I drive if I don't step on it hard then it accelerates fine. While I'm steadily driving and then hit the gas hard, it sounds as though the timing is bad. There's no power. I also don't know where to adjust the mixture. How does one adjust it? Any help would be awesome. Thanks
-Steve
-Steve
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 379
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From: olympia,wash
check www.fc3s.org ,you can find the complete manuals there,wich explain the timing/mixture adjustments.
~d
~d
#4
the CAS is on the front. looks like a distrubuter (sp??...) you turn it to change timing just like most cars. it also needs to be installed in the right place or your timming will be way off. just put a gun on and see if it lines up.
there is no way to adjust mixture.
there is no way to adjust mixture.
#7
reset the timing...line up the pulley to the correct timing mark take out the thing that looks like a distributor and make sure the dot is aligned with the arrow and that is stock timing.
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#8
Anyone know how to set the timing to "0"...?
Like when you are installing a Haltech/Wolf. Timing needs to be at '0' so that the EMS can controll it, and its calibrated...???
Like when you are installing a Haltech/Wolf. Timing needs to be at '0' so that the EMS can controll it, and its calibrated...???
#10
Originally posted by wankelhead
i thought you can adjust the idle mixture with the idle mixture adjust screw[or whatever its called]on the passenger side shock tower
d
i thought you can adjust the idle mixture with the idle mixture adjust screw[or whatever its called]on the passenger side shock tower
d
#12
You really need to buy, beg or borrow a timing light. If you just align the marks on the pulley, then align the marks on the bottom of the cas and stab it, the timing will not be spot on because the shaft of the cas will move as you stab the cas. After you stab it, you need to get a timing light out and time the car.
If the lead mark is 5 degrees after top dead center and the trail mark is 20 degrees after top dead center, you should be able to divide the distance b/t these marks to figure out how far 5 degrees is and from there where zero is.
If the lead mark is 5 degrees after top dead center and the trail mark is 20 degrees after top dead center, you should be able to divide the distance b/t these marks to figure out how far 5 degrees is and from there where zero is.
#13
Originally posted by Rotorific
I just told you.... I even made it sounds like elementary instructions incase you didnt know what i meant.
I just told you.... I even made it sounds like elementary instructions incase you didnt know what i meant.
If the lead mark is 5 degrees after top dead center and the trail mark is 20 degrees after top dead center, you should be able to divide the distance b/t these marks to figure out how far 5 degrees is and from there where zero is.
#14
you can pretty much set the CAS anyway you want with a haltech you just have to tell the ECU which way it went...
"(Using the factory FC3S crank pulleys w/ red/yellow markers)
The HITman's method (preferred):
- Manually crank engine where 5ATDC yellow marker on pulley lines w/ timing marker
on front cover
- W/ CAS cap off, insert w/ both trigger points approximately lined up w/ CAS's cap's
screw holes (check picture from Matthew Leicher here)
- In E6x Ignition setup, set Trigger Angle to 70BTDC, Number of Teeth to 24, and Tooth
Offset to 3.
Haltech USA's method:
- Remove front pulley and eccentric shaft hub (break 90ft/lb front eccentric shaft bolt)
- Side note: I've been told that the needle bearing on the front side of the thrust plate (on the eccentric shaft)
may fall down (off the thrust spacer) once the front hub is cracked loose and removed. It's been suggested that a
second person depress the clutch while changing/moving the front hub.
- Manually crank engine where e-shaft's keyway is at 6o'clock
- Remove CAS cap
- Insert CAS w/ both triggers aligned exactly w/ pickup points at 9 and 3'oclock in the
CAS respectively
- In E6x Ignition setup, set Trigger Angle to 90BTDC, Number of Teeth to 24, and Tooth
Offset to 1.
"Stock" CAS line-up method:
- Manually crank engine where the 5ATDC yellow marker on the crank pulley lines up to the front cover's timing marker
- W/ the CAS cap removed, position the bottom gear's indention notch to the CAS's timing marker on the "north" (top) side
and insert in the front cover, ensuring that it doesn't move around any.
- In the Ignition setup, set the Trigger Angle to 60BTDCs, Number of teeth to 24, and Tooth Offset to 11."
"(Using the factory FC3S crank pulleys w/ red/yellow markers)
The HITman's method (preferred):
- Manually crank engine where 5ATDC yellow marker on pulley lines w/ timing marker
on front cover
- W/ CAS cap off, insert w/ both trigger points approximately lined up w/ CAS's cap's
screw holes (check picture from Matthew Leicher here)
- In E6x Ignition setup, set Trigger Angle to 70BTDC, Number of Teeth to 24, and Tooth
Offset to 3.
Haltech USA's method:
- Remove front pulley and eccentric shaft hub (break 90ft/lb front eccentric shaft bolt)
- Side note: I've been told that the needle bearing on the front side of the thrust plate (on the eccentric shaft)
may fall down (off the thrust spacer) once the front hub is cracked loose and removed. It's been suggested that a
second person depress the clutch while changing/moving the front hub.
- Manually crank engine where e-shaft's keyway is at 6o'clock
- Remove CAS cap
- Insert CAS w/ both triggers aligned exactly w/ pickup points at 9 and 3'oclock in the
CAS respectively
- In E6x Ignition setup, set Trigger Angle to 90BTDC, Number of Teeth to 24, and Tooth
Offset to 1.
"Stock" CAS line-up method:
- Manually crank engine where the 5ATDC yellow marker on the crank pulley lines up to the front cover's timing marker
- W/ the CAS cap removed, position the bottom gear's indention notch to the CAS's timing marker on the "north" (top) side
and insert in the front cover, ensuring that it doesn't move around any.
- In the Ignition setup, set the Trigger Angle to 60BTDCs, Number of teeth to 24, and Tooth Offset to 11."
#15
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/e6k.htm
[Setting Timing w/ Crank Angle Sensor] (Added/Modified 10/23/2001)
- After the CAS has been inserted and the timing/trigger configuration set, w/ the engine idling (hopefully), go to
ONLINE mode, CTRL-G Ignition Setup, and switch the Lock Timing to ON. Using the stock crank pulley, set the
Timing Lock Degrees to 5ATDC (-5 is the value to type in here).
From here, adjust the CAS w/ a timing gun (connected to either leading plug wire) until the marker meets _exactly_ w/ the
5ATDC yellow marker. This is imperative. Set the timing before doing ANY tuning or it will be a waste of time. Once the
CAS is set, lock the 10mm locking nut in-place and re-verify w/ the timing gun again.
[Setting Timing w/ Crank Angle Sensor] (Added/Modified 10/23/2001)
- After the CAS has been inserted and the timing/trigger configuration set, w/ the engine idling (hopefully), go to
ONLINE mode, CTRL-G Ignition Setup, and switch the Lock Timing to ON. Using the stock crank pulley, set the
Timing Lock Degrees to 5ATDC (-5 is the value to type in here).
From here, adjust the CAS w/ a timing gun (connected to either leading plug wire) until the marker meets _exactly_ w/ the
5ATDC yellow marker. This is imperative. Set the timing before doing ANY tuning or it will be a waste of time. Once the
CAS is set, lock the 10mm locking nut in-place and re-verify w/ the timing gun again.
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