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How do I polish my UIM and LIM?

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Old 07-28-07 | 08:57 PM
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How do I polish my UIM and LIM?

I am looking to polish my UIM and LIM... I was wondering what tools I would need to do it. I know that some places offer this as a service, but I was curious to know how to do it myself.
Old 07-28-07 | 09:03 PM
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i use oven cleaner to clean up all unnecessary grease/ oil and use the polisher
Old 07-28-07 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by fc3sdrifterz
i use oven cleaner to clean up all unnecessary grease/ oil and use the polisher
"the polisher"?
Old 07-28-07 | 09:18 PM
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he means dusting it, de-greasing it, cleaning it, polishing it off with you're own sand paper and then mounting it
Old 07-28-07 | 09:21 PM
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really is that wat i meant? lol nooo jus got get oven cleaner and clean it then go to autozone and buy a bottle of polisher and polish it
Old 07-28-07 | 09:22 PM
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alright, I wasn't sure if like a wire-wheel or something would possibly work.
Old 07-28-07 | 09:26 PM
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Lol u makin it sound way to complicated
Old 07-28-07 | 10:30 PM
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Cuz it is, when you don't know how...that includes me! A little more detail please, all who have done this...

Thanks!
Old 07-28-07 | 10:46 PM
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Will the polish stuff get them "chrome looking"?
Old 07-28-07 | 10:52 PM
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Ok ummm If want it to look chrome looking like as in like porting and polishing or like the whole intake. What I do is that i grind it down to the bare metal and it will look kinda shiny then you polish it I would use the chrome polish and helps gets rid of rust you can get it at any wal-mart really.
Old 07-28-07 | 11:39 PM
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You could powder coat it silver.
Old 07-29-07 | 12:43 AM
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I powder coated my LIM when I had to replace it. I did it myself with my powder coating stuff. I used High-temp silver and it looks like brand new cast alluminum. I've done the chrome on my thermostat cover and it looks pretty good, but it won't take as much heat.

That being said, If you really want info on polishing, check out eastwoods, they have whole sections on polishing, all the tools you could need.
Old 07-29-07 | 01:44 AM
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Sanding it smooth is a good starting point, whether hand sanding or by using a high speed tool like a die grinder with a Scotchbrite disc. If you have a bench grinder, go to the Eastwood Company's website and order a couple of buffing wheels and polishing compounds. They are fairly cheap and you can make most any metal or plastic shine like a mammajamma!

I buffed my turbo compressor housing and manifold ports with their products and it looks like chrome.

Here are a few pics of the buffing tools from Eastwood:



And a few pics of what I polished:




Old 07-29-07 | 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by scrip7
Sanding it smooth is a good starting point, whether hand sanding or by using a high speed tool like a die grinder with a Scotchbrite disc. If you have a bench grinder, go to the Eastwood Company's website and order a couple of buffing wheels and polishing compounds. They are fairly cheap and you can make most any metal or plastic shine like a mammajamma!

I buffed my turbo compressor housing and manifold ports with their products and it looks like chrome.

Here are a few pics of the buffing tools from Eastwood:



And a few pics of what I polished:




not only do you need all those. but you also need to sand off the texture of the surface of the uim.
y ou start off with a very cource (low number) sand paper. then increase all the way to even 2000 grit and sand it with water .
Old 07-29-07 | 01:56 AM
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Eastwood also carries small sanding "rolls" and "tapers" that can be chucked in a die grinder to help with the initial prep. Great for small crevices. I used them as the first step when I polished my manifold ports, followed by the cotton buffs and compound.

Here's the link:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...33&iSubCat=436

Last edited by scrip7; 07-29-07 at 02:01 AM.
Old 07-29-07 | 09:15 AM
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The trick to a successful polish job (on anything) is consistency/uniformity of finish.
To achieve this do the hard parts first then bring the rest of the piece to that level.

If you do the easy areas first and then can't bring the crevices/recesses to the same shine it just looks like you got lazy and didn't finish.

Also- and this is admittedly a matter of personal taste- a little sprinkle of polished parts goes a long way. Not only are large polished pieces a bitch to keep shiny but the contrast between paint/beadblasted/whatever parts with some polished accents looks more dramatic than huge swathes of chrome like polishing.

Furthermore, once you start polishing one part you're pretty much committed to bringing all the surrounding parts to an equal level of cleanliness/detail, otherwise your work will stick out like a sore thumb.

/opinion
Old 07-29-07 | 09:22 AM
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this is NOT as easy as it sounds.
well, its not hard...its just time consuming!!
Old 07-29-07 | 09:34 AM
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get 200 grit ,300grit 400grit 600grit 1000grit , polishing compound, a bucket with water and rags

then all u have to do is take one part off at a time and go from low grit to high with water


Old 07-29-07 | 09:36 AM
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With anything this time-consuming, you just increase the rate of beer consumption exponentially. It's the Golden Rule of RX7 ownership.
Old 07-29-07 | 10:59 PM
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yes sir , many long nights sanding but after the 3rd beer you dont feel the sores on ur fingers and u just sand away till u run out of beer
Old 07-29-07 | 11:03 PM
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just sandblast it and powdercoat it.
Old 07-29-07 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Wanked_FC
just sandblast it and powdercoat it.
+1

(pardon the dust)
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