title says all.. any help would be nice.. i could only find guys saying to use it not exactly how in my searches

 

and also what things do i check if my car will not hold an idle.. and when removing the air pump and putting on a blockoff plate.. do i need to cap those two hoses going to the area i just blocked off? am i losing vaccum?

 

if it's similar to the ECU codes LED setup (sounds like it is), I believe it's on the FC3S.ORG site...Somebody on this forum recommended just adjusting the TPS using the voltage output when at idle (1 volt) and warm, and I gotta say, it's worked well for me...

 

The two lights are used to adjust the TPS, not the idle. And you'll get more accurate results (and thus a more accurate tune) by setting the TPS by its output voltage. Do a search for "TPS and voltage" and you'll find what you need.

 

I disagree with the Ohms vs Lights. I have had much better results with the light method. But thats just me..

 

not OHMS, J-Rat, VOLTS...using the resistance method (ohms) does get kinda quirky, I found; when I did it using the voltage (output) method, it was a thing of beauty....

 

Okay, volts then... Either way, my luck has been with the light method.

 

Gotta agree. I set mine with volts, took it for a ride and the engine kicked back. Got back to the garage and used a meter on the checker, both had voltage. Adjusted so only 1 had current. Been fine since last summer. I still say to adjust with ohms or volts and then double check with lights/meter.

 

I fail to see how setting the throttle position at which the emissions solenoids (which may not even be active any more) activate can ensure the best setting for driveability. Because that's all the lights are doing. They also give you a wide range of adjustment that's supposedly "okay", and yet either end of that range will result in different driving characteristics. That's hardly what I'd call precise.

 

I just made a set last weekend. Here's a picture that should clear it up. You'll need 2 12v Low wattage LED's and some male spade connectors to crimp on the ends.

I agree though to set with volts or Ohms (which I use) and then double check with the lights.



Use this guide for the rest. I used it and it worked for me.

http://www.johnr.com/tps.html

 

Man, I am not debating the merits of your method, I am just going with what has worked for me now, and in the past.

You of all people should know that when it comes to the TPS, you just go with whats comfortable for you.

 

I go with what gives the best results, not comfort...

 

Okay, obviously I am not succinct enough for you..

The light method has provided me with the best RESULTS

 

Hmm, i half set my tps last night, I need to go out and geta new volt meter though. I drove it when i was done and when I would downshift I would get almost no resistance from the engine to slow me down, bad or good? I tried adjusting it for like 45 minutes, the meter I was using is wack.

 

When using the two bug lights, and setting it like the fsm.....the end result is .....One volt on the green/red wire at the ECU. Been there, done it all three ways.

The RelationShip Chart shows the tps effects several things. So why not adjust it where the Mazda folk say to set it?

 

Gotta reply to that one. I've been there and done it. Set it to 1 volt. Wet for a ride and under @ 3/4 throttle it kicked back. Came home checked and still 1 volt. Didn't change. Checked the connector and power in both. Tweaked the screw until power in only one, and car has been fine ever since (A year ago).
My understanding was that the intial setting was to be between .75/1.25 volts and then finally adjusted by the check connector.
I just don't know where "It must be 1 volt, +/- 0", originated. Are we assuming that the median volts (.75/1.25) is the correct volts? I believe through my trials, that is subject to error.

 

I got it from the jpg that is hopefully attached. It's for a series four, 86-88. I'll readily admit that if I set it to say .9v or 1.10v...I can't tell the difference. So if the manufacturer wants it to be what is described in this jpg, for pin 2G....I set it there. If I use bug lights the results are the same...one volt. That's with a fully warmed up car. If the car isn't fully heated up and the thermowax is not off its cam, then the results will be off/wrong whether setting it with a bug light or a meter.

If someone wants to set it somewhere else...go for it. It's not my car. Could care less.

 

Setting it to 1.0V or 1k-ohm might have worked briliantly when the car was new, but with 15+ years of wear nothing is quite what it once was. Personally I set my TPS using resistance, but I don't set it exactly to factory specs, I set it to the number that I've found through experimentation that gives the best results (i.e. the smoothest transisiton as the injectors switch on and off). There is no way you can do that with the lights, because (from memory) there's at least a full turn or more of the screw between the first light and second light turning on. Both voltage and resistance change across that range, so it's not an accurate setting at all. Like I said before, setting it at one end of the "correct" range (one light on) will give different results from setting it at the other end. Remember, Mazda's method was to ensure the emission controls worked properly, that's all.

 

****Remember, Mazda's method was to ensure the emission controls worked properly, that's all.****

With three cars to get a sticker for each and every year...*that's all* is a big deal.

Let it die. I know where your coming from. The STATE owns my *** when it comes to emissions.

 

Just one more go I promise.

By using a DMM in conjunction with the lights you can find the spot within the "one light" range that provides the best drivability. Everybody wins. That's what I used to do until I figured out what the lights were actually showing. Since my AVC is gone, I stopped using the lights.

 

Weellllllll....since you insist on dragging this out.......You could just put your finger on the Switching Solenoid and turn the tps screw, and when the solenoid *clicked*(shut off)..... you'd be through. That's a new method I just thought up. Not tried and proven.

By the way, in the past I deliberatly set the tps using the two bug lights method and then checked the output of the tps. The result was one volt, plus or minus .05v each time I did that. 16/17 year old car. Old tps. Never bought one in my life (tps).