how do i know the CAS is in right
#1
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I took the cas out and turned it by hand a while ago when i was checking for spark. I fixed the spark issue, i found a dead short in a wire to the main relay.
I got the car running and took it out for the first drive in a long time, and now there is a popping noise coming from my engine and i have NO power. Someone told me that it sounds like a timing issue and i was wondering if i did not line the CAS up right if that could cause this problem
I got the car running and took it out for the first drive in a long time, and now there is a popping noise coming from my engine and i have NO power. Someone told me that it sounds like a timing issue and i was wondering if i did not line the CAS up right if that could cause this problem
#2
It's not to hard.. Take the CAS out and line the main engine pulley mark up with the pointer on the front cover, line the little indent on the bottom gear of the CAS up with the notch on the CAS. Hold the top part steady and insert it in.. You have to have the CAS cover off to hold it from spinning.
#3
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Have you checked your plug wires to see that they are going to the correct plug?.If you get your trailings mixed up,it will run like ****,and pop like crazy!
and Frank's got the info on the CAS..
and Frank's got the info on the CAS..
#4
It's not to hard.. Take the CAS out and line the main engine pulley mark up with the pointer on the front cover, line the little indent on the bottom gear of the CAS up with the notch on the CAS. Hold the top part steady and insert it in.. You have to have the CAS cover off to hold it from spinning.
problem.
#5
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How to install the CAS and how to time it is in the ENGINE ELECTRICAL section of the free FSM. http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html
It's advised to remove the flat black top cover of the CAS and take note of where the moving parts are in relation to the non moving parts when the two marks on the bottom of the CAS (see second jpg) are aligned.
You take not of where things are in the top, so that when the CAS is installed, you can turn the CAS body til those parts are aligned once more. Then lock it down and go find a timing light to set the timing.
In other words the CAS shaft will move when you shove it in the engine and you need to turn the CAS body so the matching marks on the bottom of the CAS are aligned once more, even though you can't see them anymore because their down in the engine now.
The colors on the pulley have probably faded by now. Just two small, very small indentations in the pulleys rear flange.
Something like that.
It's advised to remove the flat black top cover of the CAS and take note of where the moving parts are in relation to the non moving parts when the two marks on the bottom of the CAS (see second jpg) are aligned.
You take not of where things are in the top, so that when the CAS is installed, you can turn the CAS body til those parts are aligned once more. Then lock it down and go find a timing light to set the timing.
In other words the CAS shaft will move when you shove it in the engine and you need to turn the CAS body so the matching marks on the bottom of the CAS are aligned once more, even though you can't see them anymore because their down in the engine now.
The colors on the pulley have probably faded by now. Just two small, very small indentations in the pulleys rear flange.
Something like that.
#7
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Got me. The CAS has a o'ring near the top of the part that is in the engine. So I think I'd remove the nut/bolt that holds the CAS down. And then SOMEHOW, tap the CAS to rotate it clockwise and then tap it counter clockwise repeatedly. And maybe that will loosen it up so you can pull it up and out. I've never had that problem myself. It has to be the o-ring holding it in because we KNOW you took the hold down nut off.
Just keep rotating it back and forth while pulling up is what I'm saying. But if you setting the timing, just leave it where it is and get a timing light to set the timing. I'd suspect it was installed right and to finish up setting the timing you NEED to get a timing light to set it right/on the mark so to speak.
I'm saying that the jpgs attached show how to initially install the CAS, but note how the FSM tells you to finish up using a timing light. I'd leave the CAS in and do the timing with the timing light if I were you. Just a cheap timing light will do. Nothing fancy. Just a ?? $20.OO buck timing light.
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#8
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Timing light as in what is displayed in the jpg. Seems it's 12 bucks and up to whatever your pocketbook can handle. Frankly speaking, the cheap one will do fine for what you need to do to set the stock timing.
IF you buy one, all you do is put the red clamp on the pos post of the batt and black clamp on the neg post of the battery. Then take the induction clamp and put it on one of the LEAD wires. Idle the engine and press the trigger on the timing light and it should flash constantly. If it flashes intermittently, then either try the other LEAD wire OR reverse the direction you have the induction clamp on the wire. Then it'll flash constantly. It's a common *problem* that isn't a real problem.
Sometimes it helps to put the induction clamp over the lead wire closer to the sparkplug than at the coil assy.
IF you buy one, all you do is put the red clamp on the pos post of the batt and black clamp on the neg post of the battery. Then take the induction clamp and put it on one of the LEAD wires. Idle the engine and press the trigger on the timing light and it should flash constantly. If it flashes intermittently, then either try the other LEAD wire OR reverse the direction you have the induction clamp on the wire. Then it'll flash constantly. It's a common *problem* that isn't a real problem.
Sometimes it helps to put the induction clamp over the lead wire closer to the sparkplug than at the coil assy.
#10
har har har!! well, the thing is i dont know why my car keeps stalling so much after i got this mechanic guy to fix my front cover leak. he took off the front cover and re sealed the thing but ever since that... my car starts up fine cold, then stalls later. hard time starting hot and yea... i keep thinking its the CAS since he told me he couldnt get it off the front cover when he removed the cover.
sigh... i might sell my NA soon then if i can fix this. its only got 118k miles and runs strong when on the go.
sigh... i might sell my NA soon then if i can fix this. its only got 118k miles and runs strong when on the go.
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