DC350

yeah, i see the little clip at the back and i push it down and all that, how do i get em out! blah

RETed

Idiot lights? Warning cluster in the middle of the dash?



-Ted

DC350

yeah, thats what i meant....oops but i got it, i was just being weak, and i can't see in the dark. But anyhoo what do i have to resauter in the little cluster in the middle of the dash? to get the clock and the other lights working. I got the little cluster right here, if you could let me know it would be great thanks!

~Evan

billy

i too would like to know how to get the clock working agean. if there is a way

thanks
billy

RETed

Concentrate on the pins that connect to the plug - these usually go bad first, and fixing them usually fixes the problems 90% of the time.



-Ted

billy

sounds good ill get wright on that and see if i can get that stupid things to work

thanks
billy

DC350

how do i fix them? they look all...silver and fine

DC350

Come on guys. i need some help here

Keith

Remove the old solder with either solder braid or a solder sucker. Then resolder.

Irv, Keith's dad

Icemark

You need to remove the trim panel (pulling back towards the rear and up at the same time), to access the two phillips screws.

To fix one, search.

But if you are unable to search (for what ever reason)...:

Remove the two above mentioned screws, unplug the idiot light assembly, remove the three screws across the back (noting the longest screw fits in the middle). Remove the rear access panel, and carefully pull out the circuit board making sure not to break or damage the thick circa 198x ribbon cables.

Where each and every terminal (where the plug was plugged in) is soldered in, carefully remove the old Mazda solder (without burning the circuit board) by heating it with a low wattage soldering iron, and then using either a solder sucker ($10 most electronics stores like radio shack) or solder braid. This is important, as just re-flowing the solder is only a half *** fix and worth just that much.

Once the solder has been removed, re-solder all those terminals back onto the board again taking care not to burn the board, and this time also avoid using too much solder and flowing into the neighboring terminals.

Re-assemble and reinstall. You may wish to plug in and test, before screwing it back into the dash and returning the trim panel to its correct location.

DC350

whoa, thanks man, that was incredible i will do just that! thanks so much

DC350

it smells burnt.....or is that normal

DC350

and under the 1st whole board, with the lights lifted up, it doesn't look very good, there a few burnt out little silver contacts, and on the clock actual screen it looks burnt!

DC350

well, so far i have taken it out, pulled it all to **** fucked up 3 bulbs and i dontknow where to solder, so i think i am just going to buy a new one

DC350

yeah, i messed it up all real nice, gotta get another one! damnit

Icemark

yeah burnt traces are a bad thing. Only thing you can do is replace them or the whole assembly. I got a wiper switch not to long ago and it had burnt traces as well, but I replaced the burnt traces with insulated wire. (It was an 88 'vert switch and they are very hard to find)

Lucky the warning/idiot light assembly and clocks are pretty cheap at the wrecking yards, just make sure you match the year and model of the assembly to what you had before.

In 88 Mazda switched to a different type than what was found on the 86-87, and if you mix the two up you will need to replace the warning light trim panel as well. (as well as one from a 'vert doesn't have the hatch light, and one from a Turbo has a fan indicator, that would be useless on a NA, etc).

DC350

I just baught an 86 gxl warning cluster, this should be okay right??

Icemark

Yeah, all the 86 ones will work on a 87 N/A