How to: de-power your steering rack the right way
08-30-07, 10:37 PM
#26
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you could even measure force required at different speeds and angles to get a really thorough study. anybody up for that? heh.
i know the FSM has force readings for a proper working stock steering...
08-30-07, 11:31 PM
#27
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Well since you suggested it how about you doing it then? It will be significantly heavier with the pump just not running. I've experianced that breifly at autocrosses when I'd get ahead of the pump and it's HEAVY, much heavier than the proper de-powering.
All I can say is I'm loving the new rack, so precise, such fast reactions, but I think that's mostly from the welding and less so from the faster ratio.
All I can say is I'm loving the new rack, so precise, such fast reactions, but I think that's mostly from the welding and less so from the faster ratio.
09-03-07, 08:12 PM
#31
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Titanium TT's writeup was really good on this. Seems to know a lot on the subject. I though he also had a writeup on Rx7Club but I guess not.
My love my depowered S4 rack. Like others have said, you need to put some effort into turning the wheel pulling out of anywhere but after your rolling its perfectly fine.
My love my depowered S4 rack. Like others have said, you need to put some effort into turning the wheel pulling out of anywhere but after your rolling its perfectly fine.
03-25-12, 09:54 AM
#32
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UPDATE!
I've taken the 17.4:1 rack out and it's sitting in pieces in the garage waiting to get the pinion shaft welded up. I've swapped in a 15.2:1 rack with a welded pinion shaft and it's great. The steering is even more immediate and direct with the pinion shaft welded. Definetely worth the time and effort to go the extra mile and do that step (not that it was bad before).
The 17.4:1 pinion is actually slightly different than the 15.2:1 pinion, so I took a picture of it stripped down and cleaned up.
After more than 2 years of hard use the pinion gear looks perfect. No signs of wear from the extra load on it from the lack of power, no signs that the tosion spring in the pinion is anything but fine. So those who might wonder if these are potential weak points without the power assist you can rest easy. I'll get it welded up tomorrow and put it back together then I'll contemplate whether or not to keep it.
Here's a better, more complete writeup including the pinion welding and it's FC specific: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847
I've taken the 17.4:1 rack out and it's sitting in pieces in the garage waiting to get the pinion shaft welded up. I've swapped in a 15.2:1 rack with a welded pinion shaft and it's great. The steering is even more immediate and direct with the pinion shaft welded. Definetely worth the time and effort to go the extra mile and do that step (not that it was bad before).
The 17.4:1 pinion is actually slightly different than the 15.2:1 pinion, so I took a picture of it stripped down and cleaned up.
After more than 2 years of hard use the pinion gear looks perfect. No signs of wear from the extra load on it from the lack of power, no signs that the tosion spring in the pinion is anything but fine. So those who might wonder if these are potential weak points without the power assist you can rest easy. I'll get it welded up tomorrow and put it back together then I'll contemplate whether or not to keep it.
Here's a better, more complete writeup including the pinion welding and it's FC specific: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847
04-19-12, 04:29 PM
#33
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so i know there used to be a more detailed how to with pictures on another forum. but that forum went 'under constuction' for like 6 mos and i never checked it again.
but what it did have that i have not seen on any other thread or hell, anyone even mention it. but he welded something close to the quill that was some sort of spacer that comes on the rack.. but he clamied that one simple thing is what causes the 3 degrees of play you get with power converted racks... anyone know what im talking about and care to help?
edit:
heres the link, but it doesnt work
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847
but what it did have that i have not seen on any other thread or hell, anyone even mention it. but he welded something close to the quill that was some sort of spacer that comes on the rack.. but he clamied that one simple thing is what causes the 3 degrees of play you get with power converted racks... anyone know what im talking about and care to help?
edit:
heres the link, but it doesnt work
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847
04-21-12, 08:17 AM
#34
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okay, heres my question in step 8-9 on the flyin miata site they show cutting the seal off the shaft, what ive noticed now is after reassembly that there is no longer a support on the steering shaft so it has extra wiggle like it would if the inner tie rod end were worn. Is it just me or has anyone else noticed?
04-21-12, 09:25 AM
#35
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okay, heres my question in step 8-9 on the flyin miata site they show cutting the seal off the shaft, what ive noticed now is after reassembly that there is no longer a support on the steering shaft so it has extra wiggle like it would if the inner tie rod end were worn. Is it just me or has anyone else noticed?
01-02-13, 02:22 PM
#37
Senior Member
How do you calculate the ratio, using the tooth count of each gear? Its easy for 3rd members/diffs... just divide the number of teeth on the ring by those on the pinion...but steering racks seem to be different?
