How to: de-power your steering rack. quick question for those who have done it
#1
How to: de-power your steering rack. quick question for those who have done it
I recently de-powered the steering rack and followed the directions. My question for the guys that have done this, is when you are turning, does the steering correct itself after a turn and go back to center, or do you have to turn the wheel back to center? On mine, once you turn left or right, I have to center the steering myself to go straight again. If I let go of the wheel, then the car continues to go in the direction the steering wheel was turned. If mine isnt working correctly then I think used too much grease.
thanks guys..
thanks guys..
#2
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 133
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
I had a problem like that,earlier.I Noticed that the if I tightened the steering Column Wheel Nut up TIGHT,It would not allow the Steering to return..Maybe when you put the Rack back in,you may have shoved the Column into the Rack's Connection a little further.I would Suggest to Maybe Loosen the Nut there.Pull the column a Bit to give it a little slack,and Tighten again..
#4
I loosened the nut that tightens the pinion in the rack and that helps a little bit. The torque specs on Alldata say its should be between 14-22 ft lbs. I have it at 14 ft lbs. Does anybody know what would happen if i have it torqued down any less? I will also use thread lock if it is under the torque spec.
#5
If you tighten this part up too much it makes for heavy steering apparently. That could also cause a loss of centering. Mine self centers no problem.
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=2
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=2
#6
black91n/a
mine isnt too tight, but did you happen to keep the rack bushing in or did you scrap that as well. it is the part that is right after the rack stopper, and right before the seal that was to be dremeled off on the rack. i kept mine in and i think that may affect it if it was supposed to be out. i would think that it supports the rack in the housing. thanks again
mine isnt too tight, but did you happen to keep the rack bushing in or did you scrap that as well. it is the part that is right after the rack stopper, and right before the seal that was to be dremeled off on the rack. i kept mine in and i think that may affect it if it was supposed to be out. i would think that it supports the rack in the housing. thanks again
Trending Topics
#13
Well there's advantages and disadvantages to each. The factory manual rack will be a little easier to steer, but you'll have to move the wheel more. The depowered racks have a faster ratio, but will have a little more effort. It's not that bad at all. You relly don't notice after a while, and I've done 8+ hour roadtrips, autocross and track driving with mine and the increased feel more than makes up for a slight increase in effort when parking.
#14
I have a depowered rack and the effort isn't really all that significant.
it's nothing like the over-boosted feel that it has out of the box- but it isn't difficult either. It's pretty light.
all I did was take the lines/pump off of my rack, turn the wheel a few times till allthe fluid squirted out, and then plugged the holes.
my steering self-centers.
it's nothing like the over-boosted feel that it has out of the box- but it isn't difficult either. It's pretty light.
all I did was take the lines/pump off of my rack, turn the wheel a few times till allthe fluid squirted out, and then plugged the holes.
my steering self-centers.
#17
no i did not remove the steering wheel.
the only thing i took out was the seal also.
i even torqued everything to the lowest spec, so nothing can be too tight.
im going to pull the rack apart again. only thing i can think of that i may have done wrong is put more grease than it needed.
the only thing i took out was the seal also.
i even torqued everything to the lowest spec, so nothing can be too tight.
im going to pull the rack apart again. only thing i can think of that i may have done wrong is put more grease than it needed.
#20
i was reading the flyin miata writeup, and also bacon's thread for 3rd gen conversion. bacon's writeup is missing the pictures now but i think he mentioned there were 2 rings that could be removed? which is confusing since there is only 1. also, flying miata writeup appears to retain the ring, since removal isn't mentioned and it shows the ring intact during reassembly. reason i ask if the ring is necessary, is that i nicked it while cutting the steel collar.. and if it is a necessary part i will have to replace it. i can't seem to find information about which way is really the right way to go about this
#22
thanks for the link. didn't find the info though, but looking at your pictures it looks like you removed the ring? i can't tell for sure, theres no closeup picture. tried im'ing u, get back to me when u can
#25
TitaniumTT's writeup is very good and I used it when I did my 15.2:1 rack this past summer. I really like the welded pinion shaft, it adds that extra little bit of precision and quickness to the responses.