How can i tell the difference between non LSD and LSD?
#1
How can i tell the difference between non LSD and LSD?
My problem is...
My car is finally repainted so i drove it out of the workshop yesterday. It was snow so i had problems with my summer tires. I though my 1986 Turbo2 had LSD but in 1. gear and only one wheel moved! The other one stood still :S
Is there a way to see the difference without opening the diff housing? LSD is a MUST have part!
Thanks,
Sindre
My car is finally repainted so i drove it out of the workshop yesterday. It was snow so i had problems with my summer tires. I though my 1986 Turbo2 had LSD but in 1. gear and only one wheel moved! The other one stood still :S
Is there a way to see the difference without opening the diff housing? LSD is a MUST have part!
Thanks,
Sindre
#3
Your car is 19 years old. As long as it has a full TII drivetrain, it has a LSD in back. BUT, it's a clutch type, which wears friction plates. After 19 years, they're worn to the point that it's functioning as an open differential. Rebuild the differential.
-=Russ=-
-=Russ=-
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#9
2 ways of testing.
1) Dead stop, put car in 1st and dump the clutch at 5k+. Hold a burnout for a few seconds and check. If only the right tire has spun its an open diff. If both have spun, its an LSD. If one or the other has obviously not spun as much (less strail, less black mark, etc) then your LSD clutch packs need rebuilding.
2) An open diff will lock while turning left (because of the way the spider gears work, therefore both tires can spin whil turning left). To test if you have an LSD/if its working: Get in a big open parking lot. Get going around 30mph and pull the ebrake and turn left. The car should do a full on slide freely. Lather rinse repeat while turning right. If you have an LSD/if its working, youll slide like a **** and prolly spin around. If you dont/needs a rebuild the car will just understeer and slow down and wont drift.
Also, theres a rightup on doing a TII swap (which I will be using soon, myself) but it has instructions on which parts you can and cant use from NA -> TII and the correct parts to make a frankenstein drivetrain work.
1) Dead stop, put car in 1st and dump the clutch at 5k+. Hold a burnout for a few seconds and check. If only the right tire has spun its an open diff. If both have spun, its an LSD. If one or the other has obviously not spun as much (less strail, less black mark, etc) then your LSD clutch packs need rebuilding.
2) An open diff will lock while turning left (because of the way the spider gears work, therefore both tires can spin whil turning left). To test if you have an LSD/if its working: Get in a big open parking lot. Get going around 30mph and pull the ebrake and turn left. The car should do a full on slide freely. Lather rinse repeat while turning right. If you have an LSD/if its working, youll slide like a **** and prolly spin around. If you dont/needs a rebuild the car will just understeer and slow down and wont drift.
Also, theres a rightup on doing a TII swap (which I will be using soon, myself) but it has instructions on which parts you can and cant use from NA -> TII and the correct parts to make a frankenstein drivetrain work.
#10
Ohhh, i wrote wrong! it isnt 86 its 88! 1988 and i read the FAQ and it should have LSD.
I just did Spun on the snow and saw that only one wheel was spinning :P
EDIT: Im not doing a swap, but i got unsure if it really was a T2 (i aint got the papers on it).. But i guess its a real T2 with a bad LSD.
I just did Spun on the snow and saw that only one wheel was spinning :P
EDIT: Im not doing a swap, but i got unsure if it really was a T2 (i aint got the papers on it).. But i guess its a real T2 with a bad LSD.
Last edited by Sindregutt; 01-26-06 at 04:29 PM.
#11
Okay take a look under your car. On the diff mounts where there sits the diff, there will be a label that says IMSA, that's a way you can tell if it has LSD. Also, LSD's tends to wear out at 90K miles, I hear, so it may not be functional anymore. I would just get a new one from Cusco. Also stock LSD's are viscous type. Reading the FAQ's would be helpful.
#13
The S4 got a clutch type LSD (good for drifting )
But is it hard to rebuild it? and what do i need? i know mazdatrix got new lamels. Do i have to change em all? And is it only the lamels i have to change?
Sindre
But is it hard to rebuild it? and what do i need? i know mazdatrix got new lamels. Do i have to change em all? And is it only the lamels i have to change?
Sindre
#14
Originally Posted by Sindregutt
The S4 got a clutch type LSD (good for drifting )
But is it hard to rebuild it? and what do i need? i know mazdatrix got new lamels. Do i have to change em all? And is it only the lamels i have to change?
Sindre
But is it hard to rebuild it? and what do i need? i know mazdatrix got new lamels. Do i have to change em all? And is it only the lamels i have to change?
Sindre
#15
Originally Posted by Firebird_Racer
2 ways of testing.
1) Dead stop, put car in 1st and dump the clutch at 5k+. Hold a burnout for a few seconds and check. If only the right tire has spun its an open diff. If both have spun, its an LSD. If one or the other has obviously not spun as much (less strail, less black mark, etc) then your LSD clutch packs need rebuilding.
2) An open diff will lock while turning left (because of the way the spider gears work, therefore both tires can spin whil turning left). To test if you have an LSD/if its working: Get in a big open parking lot. Get going around 30mph and pull the ebrake and turn left. The car should do a full on slide freely. Lather rinse repeat while turning right. If you have an LSD/if its working, youll slide like a **** and prolly spin around. If you dont/needs a rebuild the car will just understeer and slow down and wont drift.
Also, theres a rightup on doing a TII swap (which I will be using soon, myself) but it has instructions on which parts you can and cant use from NA -> TII and the correct parts to make a frankenstein drivetrain work.
1) Dead stop, put car in 1st and dump the clutch at 5k+. Hold a burnout for a few seconds and check. If only the right tire has spun its an open diff. If both have spun, its an LSD. If one or the other has obviously not spun as much (less strail, less black mark, etc) then your LSD clutch packs need rebuilding.
2) An open diff will lock while turning left (because of the way the spider gears work, therefore both tires can spin whil turning left). To test if you have an LSD/if its working: Get in a big open parking lot. Get going around 30mph and pull the ebrake and turn left. The car should do a full on slide freely. Lather rinse repeat while turning right. If you have an LSD/if its working, youll slide like a **** and prolly spin around. If you dont/needs a rebuild the car will just understeer and slow down and wont drift.
Also, theres a rightup on doing a TII swap (which I will be using soon, myself) but it has instructions on which parts you can and cant use from NA -> TII and the correct parts to make a frankenstein drivetrain work.
#17
Originally Posted by bobafc3s
Hey Firebird, I've done a burnout in my S4 before and it left two fat patches same size on both sides. But its a BASE S4 and how does that work huh?
Two burn out marks has nothing to do with a car having a LSD
#18
Originally Posted by Firebird_Racer
2 ways of testing.
1) Dead stop, put car in 1st and dump the clutch at 5k+. Hold a burnout for a few seconds and check. If only the right tire has spun its an open diff. If both have spun, its an LSD. If one or the other has obviously not spun as much (less strail, less black mark, etc) then your LSD clutch packs need rebuilding.
2) An open diff will lock while turning left (because of the way the spider gears work, therefore both tires can spin whil turning left). To test if you have an LSD/if its working: Get in a big open parking lot. Get going around 30mph and pull the ebrake and turn left. The car should do a full on slide freely. Lather rinse repeat while turning right. If you have an LSD/if its working, youll slide like a **** and prolly spin around. If you dont/needs a rebuild the car will just understeer and slow down and wont drift.
Also, theres a rightup on doing a TII swap (which I will be using soon, myself) but it has instructions on which parts you can and cant use from NA -> TII and the correct parts to make a frankenstein drivetrain work.
1) Dead stop, put car in 1st and dump the clutch at 5k+. Hold a burnout for a few seconds and check. If only the right tire has spun its an open diff. If both have spun, its an LSD. If one or the other has obviously not spun as much (less strail, less black mark, etc) then your LSD clutch packs need rebuilding.
2) An open diff will lock while turning left (because of the way the spider gears work, therefore both tires can spin whil turning left). To test if you have an LSD/if its working: Get in a big open parking lot. Get going around 30mph and pull the ebrake and turn left. The car should do a full on slide freely. Lather rinse repeat while turning right. If you have an LSD/if its working, youll slide like a **** and prolly spin around. If you dont/needs a rebuild the car will just understeer and slow down and wont drift.
Also, theres a rightup on doing a TII swap (which I will be using soon, myself) but it has instructions on which parts you can and cant use from NA -> TII and the correct parts to make a frankenstein drivetrain work.
Both those methods are useless redneck/shade tree methods for testing for a LSD. Neither are accurate tests.
#19
If i have to change all the lamels it would cost about 500USD (including shipping to norway). I havent checked the price of Cusco yet, but if the performance is mutch better maybe i should go for it!
What method do you prefer icemark?
What method do you prefer icemark?
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