2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

How bad is it to over rev the engine?

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Old 11-04-06 | 05:35 PM
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From: cali baby
How bad is it to over rev the engine?

I was told yu cant over rev rotary engine or something and like mine easially goes past 8K I herd there was a gas cut n my friends 1st hgen dont past 6,5K rpm

so what damage if any?
Old 11-04-06 | 06:58 PM
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It's ok to redline it, but exceeding the redline by any significant margin isn't a good idea. The e-shaft will start to flex more and more and the corners of the rotors can contact the side plates. That's just one possible outcome. The car should have a rev limiter to stop excessive revs, but they're set quite a bit above redline, but the limiter doesn't always work due to age.
Old 11-04-06 | 07:11 PM
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Over reving can cause the apex seals to chatter against the housings too.

My stock rev limit is at around 8200rpm
Old 11-04-06 | 07:21 PM
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that and theres no reason to, you have passed your peak hp by the time you go past redline, your just waisting gas
Old 11-04-06 | 07:46 PM
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"A rev a day keeps the carbon at bay." patented by me
Old 11-04-06 | 07:48 PM
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slick one...
Old 11-04-06 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by keithrulz
that and theres no reason to, you have passed your peak hp by the time you go past redline, your just waisting gas
Actually, your redline coincides with your engine's condition and mods. If it is stock it really is pointless to pull past redline, but if you are modded than sometimes the car will want to keep pulling therefore you may want to shift at a higher point.
Old 11-04-06 | 08:08 PM
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^^^ true
Old 11-04-06 | 08:13 PM
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The metering pump has a hard time keeping up at that speed too doesn't it?
Old 11-04-06 | 09:25 PM
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From: cali baby
Why does so much blue smoke come out?

Also at reving it up (not looking at rpm's) I herd cracking/scraping sounds but when I looked it was at roughly 8,500rpm I herd it quite before red line
Old 11-04-06 | 10:00 PM
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I heard mazda bolted a rotary to a bench and got it to rev at 20k before **** blew up...
Old 11-04-06 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by rx7fc3s89
I heard mazda bolted a rotary to a bench and got it to rev at 20k before **** blew up...


oh im sure, then i would immagine they tore it down to analize what failed
Old 11-05-06 | 12:33 AM
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In terms of redline, its not a factor of where power is made, its a factor of how fast the engine can safely spin. Where the power is will affect why you'd want a higher redline, but won't affect the actual redline. The only way to safely increase the redline is to support the e-shaft in the middle (Guru), and/or lighten the rotors (Racing Beat, etc), and/or lighten the e-shaft (Guru), and/or clearance the rotor tips. Then the Apex seals must be selected to withstand high rpm use, and so must the clutch and flywheel.The water pump and oil pump must get some attention too, as high revs will put more stress on them potentially causing them to fail, and the waterpump will cavitate, causing you to overheat. I've read of oil pumps disintegrating at high rpm's. These are just some of the things to take into account.

The only reason why you should consider reving it beyond the stock redline is for competetive racing. It's not needed on the street, or even at non competetive track events. Make sure you know what you're doing and can accept rebuilding the engine much more frequently at a higher cost, and can accept all that downtime if you want to rev the stink out of it.
Old 11-05-06 | 02:32 AM
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Would it cause a seal to go bad fast?
Old 11-05-06 | 02:51 AM
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You aren't going to over-rev the engine with the stock ECU (and thust stock redline) in place. I ran mine to 7500 (7k redline) all the time with no problems. And yes, I had a large street port so it made power there.
Old 11-05-06 | 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Sideways7
You aren't going to over-rev the engine with the stock ECU (and thust stock redline) in place. I ran mine to 7500 (7k redline) all the time with no problems. And yes, I had a large street port so it made power there.
Mine does, I want to know tho does it ruin the coolent seals?

If you hold the throttle body thing in the engine bay all the way open it goes all thee way past 8K rpm and down farther when u let go it backfires abunch and puffs of smoke came out from what i remember
Old 11-05-06 | 10:16 AM
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also remember that your tach isn't completely accurate either...
Old 11-05-06 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by rx7fc3s89
I heard mazda bolted a rotary to a bench and got it to rev at 20k before **** blew up...
NSU tested the DKM125 (early rotary engine prototype) in 1957 at 25,000 rpm. The engine didn't show any adverse effects besides not wanting to slow down.
Old 11-05-06 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 1stgendaddy
Why does so much blue smoke come out?

Also at reving it up (not looking at rpm's) I herd cracking/scraping sounds but when I looked it was at roughly 8,500rpm I herd it quite before red line

Could be bad oil seals, after i installed my bov the car started running rich and then blue smoke would come out of my exhaust after revving it, so it could be that ur running rich. The cracking and popping sounds are normal. If your exhaust was gutted you would probably see a flame everytime you hear that cracking sound. Hope that helps a little bit
Old 11-05-06 | 09:42 PM
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You aren't going to over-rev the engine with the stock ECU
Yes you can. I rev mine to 7500 all day too. Going past 8000 is pointless and can hurt the motor in the long run.

Mine does, I want to know tho does it ruin the coolent seals?
No

also remember that your tach isn't completely accurate either...
Mine is about 100-500 rpm AHEAD of what the engine is really doing.

The cracking and popping sounds are normal. If your exhaust was gutted you would probably see a flame everytime you hear that cracking sound. Hope that helps a little bit
You don't want it to be a normal thing to be able to hear....cracking noises. Popping is normal but I would get your timing and AFR checked.

Either way don't rev your motor past the power band. Say if your car is a Series4. Don't go past 7000, stop where the power ends. If its a S5. Dont go past 8000.
Old 11-05-06 | 11:22 PM
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mine has some kinda of fuel cut at 7800 rpm on a 86 gxl stock i dont really know what it is. i guess its the revlimiter or something. it dosnt do it at idle tho only while im in gear
Old 11-05-06 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by liquidblackracing
mine has some kinda of fuel cut at 7800 rpm on a 86 gxl stock i dont really know what it is. i guess its the revlimiter or something. it dosnt do it at idle tho only while im in gear
Mine has the same thing. And what I meant by "you can't over-rev it on the stock ecu" is that you aren't going mis-shift and blow the motor up or something like on some older cars that have no rev-limmiter. Of course you will wear the engine down over time if you are constantly at high rpms, but rotarys take it particularly well. As said many times, though, there is no point in taking it past the power band.
Old 11-06-06 | 12:01 AM
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Someone please save this thread.
Old 11-06-06 | 12:27 AM
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don't think gas burns blue..
Old 11-06-06 | 09:14 AM
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Whenever I think of going past the redline too far, I just remember the warning on Racing Beat's site.


WARNING: None of the Flywheel or Clutch components shown in this site should ever be allowed to exceed 10,500 RPM under any condition. This same RPM limit applies to stock components. You must use an engine RPM-limiter to prevent excessive RPM. If your engine is capable of exceeding 8,500 RPM you must install a transmission scatter shield, or ballistic blanket. Failure to implement the above may result in serious injury or even death.



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