How 2 remove brake disc?
07-10-04, 07:30 PM
#1
How 2 remove brake disc?
Yanno I've done a million brake jobs but these rotors are really annoying. I've got the GXL 5 lug discs and I can't get the damn things off? I noticed the three screw holes on the back is some sort of special tool needed?
Help me out here guys I'm go'n nuts.....
Thanks
Adam
Help me out here guys I'm go'n nuts.....
Thanks
Adam
07-10-04, 07:39 PM
#2
R.I.P. Monte Negro FD
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dude, after you get the wheel off, take the master cylinder off, its held in place by 2 bolts on the back of the calipers. after you take that off, you need to remove the 2 philips screws on the disk, they will be hard, since they have been there for many years, put a hammer to the side and bang it alittle, they should come right off after that, i did that after i got my cross drilled ones
07-10-04, 08:04 PM
#3
After you remove the caliper and the phillips screws, even if you need to drill them out as they are not needed, put the lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads and hit the flat part of the rotor all around the studs. This is where the rust has accumulated, so you trying to break it up. It'll come.
07-10-04, 08:46 PM
#5
Originally posted by Turbonut
After you remove the caliper and the phillips screws, even if you need to drill them out as they are not needed, put the lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads and hit the flat part of the rotor all around the studs. This is where the rust has accumulated, so you trying to break it up. It'll come.
After you remove the caliper and the phillips screws, even if you need to drill them out as they are not needed, put the lug nuts on the studs to protect the threads and hit the flat part of the rotor all around the studs. This is where the rust has accumulated, so you trying to break it up. It'll come.
I think thats my prob.... I did remove the screws no prob, theres just so much rust I'll let it soak I'm done for the night...
Farg'n up north cars.....
07-10-04, 09:03 PM
#6
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to remove the screws:
use an IMPACT Screw Driver ($20 at sears or $6 at harbor freight)
then the fun starts.
I have been unable to get mine off my 88 vert. last thing I tried was whacking with a 5lb hammer, but I was hitting behind the rotor on the edge.
I will try hitting the center.
where would you spray the wd40?
use an IMPACT Screw Driver ($20 at sears or $6 at harbor freight)
then the fun starts.
I have been unable to get mine off my 88 vert. last thing I tried was whacking with a 5lb hammer, but I was hitting behind the rotor on the edge.
I will try hitting the center.
where would you spray the wd40?
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07-11-04, 01:47 AM
#10
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heh this is a fear i have right now, i want to get a set of new rotors but every time i look at the screws i get the creeps cos there is so much rust. i'll give the wd40 a shot and see what happens. since we are on the subject does anyone have and good recomendations for rotors?
07-11-04, 03:32 AM
#12
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just take the screws out with an impact screwdriver, and hit the edges of the rotor on both sides with a hammer...
if that doesnt work, try taking a bolt and putting it in the unused hole on the rotor and tightening it down to pop it off...
and remember pb blaster is your friend
if that doesnt work, try taking a bolt and putting it in the unused hole on the rotor and tightening it down to pop it off...
and remember pb blaster is your friend
07-11-04, 08:55 AM
#13
Where is this extra bolt hole? All I see are the 2 screw holes and the 5 lug holes? I thought the 4 lug discs were the ones with the extra bolt hole? Do you mean the three really small bolt holes on the back side?
I've had this ***** soaking in blaster all night and I got out the 5lb sledge... It's actually knocking the studs out instead of moving the disc.
I've had this ***** soaking in blaster all night and I got out the 5lb sledge... It's actually knocking the studs out instead of moving the disc.
07-11-04, 11:04 AM
#14
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how can you see the "back" if you dont have the disk off already... if the disk is still on the hub the back is pressed up against the hub (and the rest of the back should be blocked by dust sheilds)
and you shouldnt be hitting the studs at all, they arent holding the rotor on
and you shouldnt be hitting the studs at all, they arent holding the rotor on
07-11-04, 02:35 PM
#16
Originally posted by vectorminds
how can you see the "back" if you dont have the disk off already... if the disk is still on the hub the back is pressed up against the hub (and the rest of the back should be blocked by dust sheilds)
and you shouldnt be hitting the studs at all, they arent holding the rotor on
how can you see the "back" if you dont have the disk off already... if the disk is still on the hub the back is pressed up against the hub (and the rest of the back should be blocked by dust sheilds)
and you shouldnt be hitting the studs at all, they arent holding the rotor on
Last edited by vxturboxv; 07-11-04 at 02:39 PM.
07-11-04, 04:20 PM
#18
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It depends on what model you have. Some came stock with solid rear rotors, and others had vented ones. I have a Sport and it has vented rotors. And for the other guy having trouble with his rotor. I have the 5 lug hubs and my rotors had the small extra hole in them. So your should have it also. It really makes it a lot easier to pop the rotor off with an extra bolt in that hole.
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