To just start off i have serched about this problem for days with no real answer.

My problem is horrable bucking, power loss issue. i have replaced the tps, fuel pump, and checked the resistor. No im checking the tps. I have posted what I did with the tps in another thread, ill just coppy it over.
"Ohms metter:

Tested the tps with the meter and everything checked out 1.2k up to 5.4k

Lamp methoid:

1) Fully warmed up
2) Used the lamps and no lights came on..
3) Turned the screw all the way up and down.. Nothing no lights
4) Went back and checked the ohms, not changed.
5) I moved the high range IN and the light came on

Im not sure whats going on. Any ideas will be helpful.
Pictures on next post.

 

Adjustment screw all the way up with no light


Adjustment screw towards the middle no light


adjustment screw all the way down with no light





Hight range pressed in about 1/8inch and magic light.


Only works when the tps is puched in (--->) 1/8inch

 

Pull the codes-sounds like limp mode.

You're gonna need this:
http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/codes.html

And probably this:

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/s5-mop-ecu-failure-diagnosis-710938/

 

no codes. when i ground it nothing comes up. BTW check engine light is on. some times its not untill its reved. i dont know if that means anything.

 

That means your ecu is fried.

Sorry.

 

Does the bucking only occur at idle? If it idles properly, but bucks during acceleration then look at the following link and click on "tech tips" located on the left margin and then click on "exhaust systems" located at the top menu (red) then read the 6th paragraph.

http://racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm

 

It putts durring idle at times. And when reved at lets say 2500 rpmsits will hesitate and drop to 2100 rps then back up to 2500 rpms.

Can i just get a new ECU?

 

Of course you can get a replacement ecu. Used ones are available in the parts for sale section but make sure you get one which was designed for you car for not every RX7 ecu available for sale will work in your car. If your car has some engine or performance mods you could elect to replace your ecu with an aftermarket one.

 

Do you think its the ecu Or something else? I jusy hate replaceing parts and not sloving the problem.

 

I'll look into it. If the ecu I just bought dosen't work I'll drop the cat and back and see if it's better.

 

Did you look at the link I posted? You OMP/MOP has likely taken out your ECU. If you put another ecu in with a bad MOP, you will burn up another ECU.

Even an MOP that tests perfect by the FSM may be bad. Mine tested fine per the FSM That failure diagnosis link put me onto the test mode where I found my MOP problem. Got an MOP that tested good, put in the 'new' ECU and it was all good.

Good luck.

 

dumb question but did u change the fuel filter w/the pump?

 

The pervious owner bought a brand new oil metering pump and this one was fine(he returned the new one) I still have the new lines it came with so I think I'll pick up a used working one then. Also I know the omp is oil metering pump but what's mop? Also I not at a computer and I logging in via my phone with not much service and I started reading that thread u sent me I will start premix asap just to be safe. I have new oil metering lines(I might haw a new one installed) so that leaves me with testing it what I need(ecu n350 and omp). If I missed anything please let me know.anyone have a omp for sale.

Changed the filter b4 the pump and it Was not ran just idled for 40 mins untill the pump was changed.

 

Only dumb question is the one not asked

 

OMP = MOP. Oil Metering Pump, or Metering Oil Pump in Mazda's terminology.

 

lol thats what i thought. Just wanted to make sure =]

 

Anyone happen to have a omp for sale?

 

i got one if u are close to hawaii!!

 

Thanks but I'm all the way across the country lol.

 

Haven't check the pump with the way from the thread you sent me, i got occupied.... while cutting the grass i got bit by a rattle... so Friday ill post the results... sorry for the drama...

 

Ok i found some time and cracked open the ECU this is what i found:


Bottem board after the cover is taken off and the first board is removed.


The first board after the cover is taked off( the one that has to be turned arround)


The front of the first board and the cover
To jack:

I noticed that the same resistor from the thread you sent me to was not burned? Dose that matter, is it still the mop? Also look at the cover N352. I thought 91 was N350(cally) or N351. Also the previous ower said he replaced the Ecu with a brand new one(maybe rebuilt). I just bought a N350 should i let him know i need it or not?

 

Sorry by "I noticed that the same resistor from the thread you sent me was not burned" i ment the top board not the bottem.

 

Worked droved hard but a tps adjustment.

 

when you started having this issue with the car,you said it had the check engine light ON right? did you pull the codes? i was having the a few of the issues you were having and my check engine light is on as well,its code 18.LMK

Thanks

 

I did pull the codes. None ever came on. Then one day while adjusting the afr it just started flashing. sure enough all the omp codes poped out.

18 is Throttle sensor (Narrow)

The last post idk wtf i was doing lol it was from my phone. I ment that replacing the omp and ecu fixed it and she runs strong and with a tps adjustment she runs perfect.