RyCeKiLlEr

Okay, recently my car has been flooding occasionally (1-3times a day) and i was told to put in a fuel cut-off switch and that that would solve all my problems. Well, i installed it and it cuts off the fuel fine. But, whats weird is that it still floods. Now ive narrowed it down to finding out that it will almost always only flood when the car has been sitting for under an hour after being turned off. It starts up fine after i get out of school and when i start it in the morning. But when i leave for about 20-1hr, it wont start, without me turnin the switch off again and then crankin, and then on again and crankin. The flooding does not occur when i turn the car off and then turn it on again in under 5 minutes. These problems HAVE all occured after i installed an electric cooling fan that does turn off after the car is off. Is the car being cooled too quickly and making a problem with cold start somehow? Where can i wire the fan so that it turns off with the ignition?
thanks guys,

RyCeKiLlEr

Just thought i'd let you guys know that with the problems i am experiencing it seems obvious that it is flooding when i crank it, not from shutting it down because the fuel cutoff elinates that from happening right? So... is it somethin with the amount of fuel being let into the engine on startup? seems like a bad sensor to me somewhere due to it only happening on certain temperatures. Any ideas? THe engine has been installed for maybe 2-3weeks (99k on it) Has the air pump remooved as well as the EGR has been blocked off, if that has anything to do with it.
here is what it does when i try to start it after using the fuel cutoff switch to kill the car. It goes RR RR RR RR(cranking) with no signs of starting, then you hear the fuel trying to burn for a lil bit, then you keep crankin and it wont start and you feel the fuel trying to burn but cant. So its definitley flooding after beginin to crank, not pre-flooded.
GRRR

Scott 89t2

do you turn the car off by stalling it out with the switch? or do you turn it off by turning the key?

I would also change the spark plugs. they probably need to be changed everytime you flood bad...

shurton

I have exactly the same problem, and had a cut off switch put in. When your car is hot, and it won't start, turn the switch off and crank it over. Once the engine starts, quicky turn the switch on.

RyCeKiLlEr

I turn it off with the shutoff switch, then the key

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Guys (and gals),

I am in the middle of doing EXTENSIVE research ( I am swapping out all kinds of sensors and things), to try to isolate this problem.

What we know:

Sometimes swapping ECUs can help, I am trying that tonight. Also could be the BAC (I believe its supposed to go full open for starting). And the ECU/BAC thing could VERY WELL be interrelated. And last but not least, the IAC is suspect. Mechanical has been eliminated, becuse this car had the SAME DAMN PROBLEM with the previous motor. Injectors HAVE BEEN CHANGED.

I will post results as I get them.

Jarrett

NZConvertible

Most likely it's dirty (leaking) injectors, low compression, or both. Remove the injectors and have the professionally cleaned. If your engine's reasonably healthy, this nearly always solves the flooding problem. If it doesn't, get a compression test done.

Rx7Nub

ditto this method seems to work great for me aswell...

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

I have eliminated these as possible suspects, in my case. Thats why I am looking elsewhere.

NZConvertible

I can't remember if it was posted on this forum as well, but a member of the Team FC3S forum replaced a blown transistor in the ECU that controlled the BAC valve and his hot-start flooding problem completely disappeared. I'm sure I linked to it. If the BAC valve is playing up and flooding is a problem, then an ECU repair is probably required. Apparently it's an easy job.

This is a pretty rare situation though, and dirty injectors and worn engines are very common problems, so in this case I'd still first clean the injectors (a good idea anyway) and check compression.

dr0x

Why dont you just turn the fuel switch off, let the car die. Then leave it off. When you get back in your car turn the key to start, then flick the switch. As its cranking fuel pressure will rise and I dont see how you will see any flooding problem what so ever. I of course would recommend you fix the problem, not put a bandaid over it

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

check the water thermo sensor (behind the alternator, 2 prong plug) i have reason to believe it is a major source of alot of our FC problems. supposedly, if it is dead, it makes the ecu run the car really rich, which can make alot of things not happen properly.

Juan

iTrader: (28)

Since the ECU thing came up, has anyone seen an FC flood with aftermarket computers such as Haltec, AEM...? Just curious.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i haven't.. is it possible? cause you could just remap the fuel at idle and fix the **** right? and hey wan, when do we get to change our avater text?

scathcart

The majority of the people running aftermarket ECU's usually have rebuilt, strong motors, upgraded fuel system's with new injectors, and tailored cold-start fuel maps.

It's not really a fair group to compare to, since very few people through a Haltec onto a motor that already has issues.

dr0x

ding ding Anyone who invests in a standalone will fix stupid problems like this before hand.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

a standalone costs almost as much as my car. i;d say about 2000 bucks for a nice (relatively new laptop) and a new haltech E11. i know the stock ecu sucks a dick, but i'm not about to go pay half the value of my car just for an engine computer that will do the job better than the stock one.

Juan

iTrader: (28)

I was asking about people who got a standalone and a new engine a few years back and have high mileage engines now. Seems that I've never seen a post about someone like this complaining about hot/cold start issues.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i think i might buy a haltech this summer. then i can pimp the ho's and punch babies.