I just looked at my Twin Power. The green wire you speak of corresponds to a yellow wire on the flying lead harness, and all the other wires line up. So follow the instructions as you see them essentially. Just think of your green wire as yellow.

On mine, it has red, green, yellow, white, and black on the actual twin power unit plug. That connects to the flying leed harness, which mates up (respectively): red, yellow, yellow, white, black.

 

thank you very much buddy that was what I was thinking but wasnt positive you are the man

 

Fellas, I bought a twin power too; lets see how it works with the WI kit

Anyways, do you guys have pics of your installation? I am thinking of mounting it on the fierewall, but would love to see what you guys did, before I commit to the firewall idea.

 

i mounted my on the driverside shock tower. there is a drilled/tape hole for a 10mm bolt that is a great location. i just used a rubber insulator then a 1/4" spacer and then another rubber insulator befor bolting it down.

 

it is very important to protect the Twin Power from heat and vibration.

 

My jacobs box is giving me a few issues atm, might replace it with the hks unit.

 

I put mine where the battery once was

 

Thanks for the tip, unfortunately; that exactly were I mounted my FPR

Got you, I was also wondering about water. The engine bay on my FC could use a good power wash

I thought about mounting it behind the battery, but I am leaning towards the firewall; close to the brake booster.
If I get a chance, I will install it this weekend, and will post pics.

 

Digging up an old thread but you can pick up the twin power for $400 or less on ebay.

 

I know this is old but I just found out the hard way that the statement in bold is false.

When my twin power started to fail the car just missfired enough to melt my metallic core smb cat but once it completely failed the car wouldn't run at all!

I had to disconnect the Twin Power and revert the ignition to stock for the car to start and run and it runs fine, doesn't even missfire anymore (at 10 psi).

 

^ are you running it on a 2nd gen ignition system with the 3 wires tapped in, or are you running it on an REW with the plug and play harness?

 

REW with PnP harness, stock FD coils

 

msd 6al here with a lt8s.no ignition brake up at all,i had a jacobs and a twin power and somehow i got my leading coil 2 die on me twice,is being great since i went msd but i will give a twinpower another chance.

 

I wonder if that makes a difference? On the FC coils you are just splicing wires in... I haven't looked closely at the FD PnP harness

 

Ive just got one for my FC, worth a try to cure the missfires as is simple and cheap compared to other setups.
It comes with the universal loom and the 4 wires (red/white and yellow x2), the instructions seem pretty clear so should be easy.

BUT...

As my ign wiring has been monkey'd about with when it was in Japan a little, im not 101% sure I will wire it right, well, im 99% sure but paranoid...

So if I make a mistake with the wiring, will it just not run right (ar at all), or will it damage anything?

PS- I cured 99% of my missfire issues by changing my water injection from post intercooler to pre-compressor.

 

Follow the instructions exactly and you shouldn't have any problems. If you buy it new it even comes with a photo. I don't see how your car would even be running if the wiring was hacked that bad.

 

No no, its not hacked in a bad way, and yeah it comes with a photo and says what wires go where.
But my car, at least it seems, is running two trailing coils as the leading setup, instead of the stock single dual post leading setup.
Well looks like it anyhow, but as im not 101% sure I was a bit worried about being wrong and ******* something up...

 

Right, im nearly there with my FC TwinPower setup, but a question....

The red wire on the harness is the power supply wire, and it says to connect it up to the white wire on the trailing coil, the positive wire.

BUT there are two coils side by side, and two white wires, one to each coil.

Should I hook it up to either, or splice it in to both?

 

The red wire is just switched main relay power. Anywhere with switched power will do. I don't remember exactly how I did mine and I can't check right now.

 

Ok, well, a coil positive wire would be fine wouldnt it? Thats what it seems to suggest anyhow.
Dont suppose it matters if its one or both?

 

I'd have to look at the diagrams for the exact wire you are referring to... whatever it is, it should be switched (not constant) 12V

 

Coil positive wire would be switched, so im sure its fine

 

I have a 20B with the stock ignition system. After some advice, I went out and bought the universal 6 channel version.

After doing some research and getting no help from HKS, I have come on here to see what the difference is between the Rotary type and the Universal DLI?

The 20B ignition system has two seperate coil packs with 3 coils each. Each coil pack has four wires, three triggers and one ground. I was wondering if I could just hook the twin power up to each ignitors ground?

What are peoples thoughts on this?

 

The Rotary type is a 3 channel and the Universal is a 6 channel.

I have the Universal on my 20B using 6 coils. Do just as you described, connect each yellow wire to each of the coil negatives and the red wire to the 12V+.

 

Good to hear. Are you using the stock igniters because I have been toying with new coil packs and just using six indiviudal coils.