I want to get some good performance spark plugs. I have a S5 with a stock turbo, an 80mm corksport down pipe and a microtech LT10s

Should i get NGK BUR7EQP / BUR9EQP or HKS R45RE / R50RE Or what others would work well?

 

NGK １０’ｓ or 10.5's should be a decent match for your set up.　
the NGK's you mentioned above are stock replacements. The HKS are not much better. Get a racing plug if you want good plugs but dont expect them to be cheap.

 

If you are stock turbo, just run all nines. You don't need racing plugs yet.

Josh

 

that makes sense i checked my plugs and they were black. so I'm going to go with at least 9s

 

your plugs can be all black from flooding just once. Stick with 4 stock BUR9EQ plugs. Do not go colder on stock turbo, they will only foul out and have reduced plug life. I run BR10EIX (Irridium resistor, 10 heat range) but I run 20psi on an upgraded turbo.

 

Alright i will,

Thank you

 

What about the BUR7EQ?????

It's known that:

Trailing (Top) BUR9EQP

Leading (Lower) BUR7EQP

Why should you use BUR9EQP for all 4??? is it possible?

 

iv always been a NGK user and fan ever since i started building cars, they seem to work well for just about any application. although i have never used HKS, from what i have read, seen, and used before i would just stick with NGK

 

A common misconception of many people are the terms "Hot" spark plug, and "Cold" spark plug. The temperature rating of the plug refers to the running temperature of the physical spark plug - i.e. a "Hot" plug will retain more of the combustion heat in the plug itself, meaning not transfer the heat to the engine itself. This is why a "Hot" plug is needed for slower city type driving so the carbon deposits will be burned off the plug, and clean firing will still be possible even when combustion temps are low (idling, stop & go etc.). At the same time a "Hot" plug used in a highly modified engine that is driven hard consistently will simply retain too much of the extra combustion temperature and burn itself up (usually cracking the porcelain, and potentially doing major engine damage).

A spark plug that is too "Cold" for the engine/application will start harder, foul much easier, and generally be a pain to work with.

For engines that are not significantly modified for racing, we have had very good luck just running the stock plugs. For street ported engines driven hard on the street, the most we have had to do is move one or two heat ranges colder. This lack of change is because the engine is still driven at normal speeds and loads for 99% of the time.

Racing engines, for the most part, are above 7000rpm 100% of the time - these are the ones that require the colder plugs. Quite often a set of "hotter" plugs must be used to get the engine started and warmed-up, because the race plugs will not fire consistently below 4000rpm.

Spark plug choice, for any given engine, can then be stated as "Hot" enough to fire consistently at the lowest RPM and load normally needed (without fouling), and not overheat (and burn-up) at the highest RPM/load for the given application. This translates to : The "Hotter" the engine (turbo, modifications, load, usage, etc.) the "Colder" the spark plug needed.

http://banzai-racing.com/store/86-91...ark_plugs.html

 

BUR9EQP will be fine

 

What ever you do, get NGK Iridium plugs. They are a bit more pricey but worth every penny. Good for everyday use as well as street/strip racing.