High running temps
08-13-02, 11:59 PM
#1
High running temps
I installed a Water temp gauage from Autometer last night.
I drove to work this afternoon and my temps were at pegged at 250(end of gauge)on the highway and at 210 on the small streets.(I know
)
My father recommended checking the thermostat.
I have checked the Cats so far abd they look good(don't know what to look for but was pretty clean). It has a new radiator on which is copper and something.
I was thinking that either my radiator sucks *** or maybe my fan had something wrong and wasn't pulling enough air.
Any Ideas? and what would give certain things away as being the culprit?
I drove to work this afternoon and my temps were at pegged at 250(end of gauge)on the highway and at 210 on the small streets.(I know
)My father recommended checking the thermostat.
I have checked the Cats so far abd they look good(don't know what to look for but was pretty clean). It has a new radiator on which is copper and something.
I was thinking that either my radiator sucks *** or maybe my fan had something wrong and wasn't pulling enough air.
Any Ideas? and what would give certain things away as being the culprit?
08-14-02, 01:07 AM
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Originally posted by wan
Whats the normal operating temp? My friend was reading 110 on his aftermarket gauge and he was worried about overheating. What temp is considered overheating? thanks.
Whats the normal operating temp? My friend was reading 110 on his aftermarket gauge and he was worried about overheating. What temp is considered overheating? thanks.
Please god tell me youre talking about 110° C
08-14-02, 01:11 AM
#6
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Yep, he was talking about 110 degrees Celcius 
Otherwise, the engine is not even running 
Something about the Autometer gauges: do they come with their own temp sensor ? If so, does anyone know their resistance range ? If you connect an aftermarket gauge to the stock thermo-sensor, could you get false readings due to the difference in the Ùhm range ?
I think this is a case that something like this could have happened....dunno
Otherwise, the engine is not even running Something about the Autometer gauges: do they come with their own temp sensor ? If so, does anyone know their resistance range ? If you connect an aftermarket gauge to the stock thermo-sensor, could you get false readings due to the difference in the Ùhm range ?
I think this is a case that something like this could have happened....dunno
08-14-02, 01:13 AM
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kk...Well if its Celsius, than youre ok I guess. Its a little high ( ~230° F ) But not the deadly 250° +.
However, if it was me, Id look into lowering that temp some.
Just my $.02
However, if it was me, Id look into lowering that temp some.
Just my $.02
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08-14-02, 01:15 AM
#8
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Originally posted by The Ace
Yep, he was talking about 110 degrees Celcius Otherwise, the engine is not even running
Something about the Autometer gauges: do they come with their own temp sensor ? If so, does anyone know their resistance range ? If you connect an aftermarket gauge to the stock thermo-sensor, could you get false readings due to the difference in the Ùhm range ?
I think this is a case that something like this could have happened....dunno
Yep, he was talking about 110 degrees Celcius
Otherwise, the engine is not even running Something about the Autometer gauges: do they come with their own temp sensor ? If so, does anyone know their resistance range ? If you connect an aftermarket gauge to the stock thermo-sensor, could you get false readings due to the difference in the Ùhm range ?
I think this is a case that something like this could have happened....dunno
Even though I have no idea what the answer is to your question, I just had point out that its Ohm...not Ùhm
08-14-02, 01:20 AM
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Originally posted by adamlewis
Even though I have no idea what the answer is to your question, I just had point out that its Ohm...not Ùhm
Even though I have no idea what the answer is to your question, I just had point out that its Ohm...not Ùhm
)
08-14-02, 01:29 AM
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Originally posted by The Ace
Well, shoot, its "Ù" when its on its own, and "Ohm" when its the actual name of the unit. I guess I had to show you guys the greek measuring unit decall (which is ofcourse universal)
Well, shoot, its "Ù" when its on its own, and "Ohm" when its the actual name of the unit. I guess I had to show you guys the greek measuring unit decall (which is ofcourse universal
)
[hijack thread]Hows the weather over there in Greece?[/hijack thread]
08-14-02, 01:31 AM
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Originally posted by adamlewis
[hijack thread]Hows the weather over there in Greece?[/hijcak thread]
[hijack thread]Hows the weather over there in Greece?[/hijcak thread]
That what you were looking for ?
Planning on visiting us ?
08-14-02, 01:35 AM
#12
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Originally posted by The Ace
Right now (9:30 am) its 32 degrees Celcius, almost sunny (few clouds here and there), somewhat dry, with 2-3 Beaufors of air.
That what you were looking for ? Planning on visiting us ?
Right now (9:30 am) its 32 degrees Celcius, almost sunny (few clouds here and there), somewhat dry, with 2-3 Beaufors of air.
That what you were looking for ?
Planning on visiting us ?
Itd be nice to ... But I dont see it happening anytime in the near future.
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08-14-02, 02:05 AM
#13
Yup, Its running at 200F on normal streets and off the gauge on the highway(250F). I'm hoping its reading false but I think its right on. I installed it with the included sensor figuring it came with one for a reason like differences in Ohms like Ace said.
I'm gonna look into a E-Fan soon.
So far I have gone 2 months at this temp on a 30 minute highway drive each day and it still runs good.
Also Have you checked the thermal fan for operation? Spin it by hand about 10-20 times when its warm. If it starts freewheeling, its bad
You mean the engine fan? I have spun that and it will spin for a split second then stop like a bike wheel with the brakes applied mildly.
I'm gonna look into a E-Fan soon.
So far I have gone 2 months at this temp on a 30 minute highway drive each day and it still runs good.
Also Have you checked the thermal fan for operation? Spin it by hand about 10-20 times when its warm. If it starts freewheeling, its bad
You mean the engine fan? I have spun that and it will spin for a split second then stop like a bike wheel with the brakes applied mildly.
08-14-02, 02:14 AM
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Originally posted by Digi7ech
Yup, Its running at 200F on normal streets and off the gauge on the highway(250F). I'm hoping its reading false but I think its right on. I installed it with the included sensor figuring it came with one for a reason like differences in Ohms like Ace said.
I'm gonna look into a E-Fan soon.
So far I have gone 2 months at this temp on a 30 minute highway drive each day and it still runs good.
Also Have you checked the thermal fan for operation? Spin it by hand about 10-20 times when its warm. If it starts freewheeling, its bad
You mean the engine fan? I have spun that and it will spin for a split second then stop like a bike wheel with the brakes applied mildly.
Yup, Its running at 200F on normal streets and off the gauge on the highway(250F). I'm hoping its reading false but I think its right on. I installed it with the included sensor figuring it came with one for a reason like differences in Ohms like Ace said.
I'm gonna look into a E-Fan soon.
So far I have gone 2 months at this temp on a 30 minute highway drive each day and it still runs good.
Also Have you checked the thermal fan for operation? Spin it by hand about 10-20 times when its warm. If it starts freewheeling, its bad
You mean the engine fan? I have spun that and it will spin for a split second then stop like a bike wheel with the brakes applied mildly.
Those of you who know Greece and the weather/temps here, can understand what this means What does the stock gauge show ? Does it stay in the middle like its supposed to ? Or does it start going up ? If its the first, then the meter maybe malfuctioning. If its the latter, then start worrying....
08-14-02, 02:29 AM
#16
The stock gauge always ran 3/4 of the way up and sometime a tiny bit higher.
I live in Phenix AZ and its pretty warm right now. Was 105F yesterday I think.
When it rains and we get some humidity my temps drop down to 1/4 - 1/2 way on the stock meter.
I live in Phenix AZ and its pretty warm right now. Was 105F yesterday I think.
When it rains and we get some humidity my temps drop down to 1/4 - 1/2 way on the stock meter.
08-14-02, 02:42 AM
#17
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Originally posted by Digi7ech
The stock gauge always ran 3/4 of the way up and sometime a tiny bit higher.
I live in Phenix AZ and its pretty warm right now. Was 105F yesterday I think.
When it rains and we get some humidity my temps drop down to 1/4 - 1/2 way on the stock meter.
The stock gauge always ran 3/4 of the way up and sometime a tiny bit higher.
I live in Phenix AZ and its pretty warm right now. Was 105F yesterday I think.
When it rains and we get some humidity my temps drop down to 1/4 - 1/2 way on the stock meter.
The S5 TIIs should run at about 1/2 of the stock gauge, and the FDs run 2-3 clicks above the 1/2 mark. Running at 3/4 means running 110C or so, which is borderlining on "disaster".If the engine is still good, then
. However, I would get this checked a.s.a.p. Hell, I **** my pants when my stock gauge seems like it wants to go above the 1/2 mark
08-14-02, 03:00 AM
#18
Originally posted by The Ace
"Always" like in "from the first moment I got it" ? Have you done a radiator flush, change your coolant, thermostat and radiator cap ? (with stock Mazda ones). If this is normal operation, then I havent heard anything like it before The S5 TIIs should run at about 1/2 of the stock gauge, and the FDs run 2-3 clicks above the 1/2 mark. Running at 3/4 means running 110C or so, which is borderlining on "disaster".
If the engine is still good, then. However, I would get this checked a.s.a.p. Hell, I **** my pants when my stock gauge seems like it wants to go above the 1/2 mark
"Always" like in "from the first moment I got it" ? Have you done a radiator flush, change your coolant, thermostat and radiator cap ? (with stock Mazda ones). If this is normal operation, then I havent heard anything like it before
The S5 TIIs should run at about 1/2 of the stock gauge, and the FDs run 2-3 clicks above the 1/2 mark. Running at 3/4 means running 110C or so, which is borderlining on "disaster".If the engine is still good, then
. However, I would get this checked a.s.a.p. Hell, I **** my pants when my stock gauge seems like it wants to go above the 1/2 mark
08-14-02, 03:12 AM
#19
Originally posted by Digi7ech
Yup, Its running at 200F on normal streets and off the gauge on the highway(250F). I'm hoping its reading false but I think its right on. I installed it with the included sensor figuring it came with one for a reason like differences in Ohms like Ace said.
I'm gonna look into a E-Fan soon.
So far I have gone 2 months at this temp on a 30 minute highway drive each day and it still runs good.
Also Have you checked the thermal fan for operation? Spin it by hand about 10-20 times when its warm. If it starts freewheeling, its bad
You mean the engine fan? I have spun that and it will spin for a split second then stop like a bike wheel with the brakes applied mildly.
Yup, Its running at 200F on normal streets and off the gauge on the highway(250F). I'm hoping its reading false but I think its right on. I installed it with the included sensor figuring it came with one for a reason like differences in Ohms like Ace said.
I'm gonna look into a E-Fan soon.
So far I have gone 2 months at this temp on a 30 minute highway drive each day and it still runs good.
Also Have you checked the thermal fan for operation? Spin it by hand about 10-20 times when its warm. If it starts freewheeling, its bad
You mean the engine fan? I have spun that and it will spin for a split second then stop like a bike wheel with the brakes applied mildly.
I dont care what anyone says, a bad fan clutch here in Arizona, no matter if its "kinda" bad or fried, will NOT cool your car. Period. If I were you, I would flush the radiator, and add some coolant additave (I use Hyper Lube), until you can get the fan looked at or replaced.
Rat
08-14-02, 02:32 PM
#21
Opinions are like........
How/where did you mount the temp sensor probe? Are you sure it is connected properly? And, how does this compare to your dash gauge?
When car is first started cold(in the morning), does the gauge read ambient temp and then climb steadily to 200+?
When car is first started cold(in the morning), does the gauge read ambient temp and then climb steadily to 200+?
08-14-02, 02:35 PM
#22
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If it is overheating on the highway, it is NOT a fan issue. The fan does nothing on the highway.
Replace all your coolant with a 70/30 water/coolant ratio. You say you have a new rad? How new and from where?
Replace the lower coolant hose, it may be collapsing. Replace the thermostat and rad cap, check for leaks on all other hoses. Pressure test the system
Is your plastic belly-pan missing? If so, replace it.
Replace all your coolant with a 70/30 water/coolant ratio. You say you have a new rad? How new and from where?
Replace the lower coolant hose, it may be collapsing. Replace the thermostat and rad cap, check for leaks on all other hoses. Pressure test the system
Is your plastic belly-pan missing? If so, replace it.
08-15-02, 02:02 AM
#23
I don't know how new the radiator is. I think its a few months old. The previous owner got it. My friend at Checker said it was a shitty radiator.
I did a flush about a month ago and put in about 40%coolant a bottle of water wetter and then rest water.
I installed the sensor a little to the left(looking at engine from front of car)of the alternator and down a few inches. I bought the metric adapter kit for the guage then installed it in the old sensors spot.
What I find weird is that the old guage still works. I am confused about that. I look at the old guage and when its in the middle it is at 200-210F on the autometer.
The autometer shows it running 210 constant even at idle. Then it pegs on the highway(doing over 80MPH).
How do you tell if your radiator cap is bad?As for leaks there are none.
What is the plastic belly pan?
I did a flush about a month ago and put in about 40%coolant a bottle of water wetter and then rest water.
I installed the sensor a little to the left(looking at engine from front of car)of the alternator and down a few inches. I bought the metric adapter kit for the guage then installed it in the old sensors spot.
What I find weird is that the old guage still works. I am confused about that. I look at the old guage and when its in the middle it is at 200-210F on the autometer.
The autometer shows it running 210 constant even at idle. Then it pegs on the highway(doing over 80MPH).
How do you tell if your radiator cap is bad?As for leaks there are none.
What is the plastic belly pan?
08-15-02, 10:12 AM
#24
Opinions are like........
Recent rad rules it out for now. Theres no point in testing the radiator cap. If its new, don't worry about it. If it looks old, replace it. I guess that your mech fan works. I wished that mine stopped in a split second when hot.
If you did a flush, did at least one gallon of antifreeze fit? Most people forget to take into account the water that is in the heatercore and block. Make sure you are using green classic antifreeze.
How old is the thermostat? If unknown, buy a new one only from the Mazda dealer. Parts store ones suck. The thermostat may not be opening all the way.
You put the sender in the e-fan switch(?) is so equipped. Does your car overheat with the A/C on or off on the highway? Test both ways. I am assuming that you have a working A/C because you live in AZ.
Whats the condition of the waterpump/belt/housing/hoses? It might just be time for replacement.
The plastic shrouds(bellypan/ducts...) are needed to control airflow through the radiator and engine bay. Without them, you have turbulence and pathetic airflow. You need one attached to the radiator for the fan and one under the car.
And, my recommendation is not to drive over 80mph since that is when the problem is occurring.
The car is also oil cooled. Make sure oil is topped off and that the oil cooler is hot. Make sure there is no trash blocking airflow through the condensor/oilcooler/radiator.
Download the FSM lube/cooling/body chapters.
Front ducts are in the body chapter and the undercarriage panel is in the lube chapter. The cooling chapter should assist you with your overheating problems.
FSM available here:
www.iluvmyrx7.com
www.fc3s.org
If you did a flush, did at least one gallon of antifreeze fit? Most people forget to take into account the water that is in the heatercore and block. Make sure you are using green classic antifreeze.
How old is the thermostat? If unknown, buy a new one only from the Mazda dealer. Parts store ones suck. The thermostat may not be opening all the way.
You put the sender in the e-fan switch(?) is so equipped. Does your car overheat with the A/C on or off on the highway? Test both ways. I am assuming that you have a working A/C because you live in AZ.
Whats the condition of the waterpump/belt/housing/hoses? It might just be time for replacement.
The plastic shrouds(bellypan/ducts...) are needed to control airflow through the radiator and engine bay. Without them, you have turbulence and pathetic airflow. You need one attached to the radiator for the fan and one under the car.
And, my recommendation is not to drive over 80mph since that is when the problem is occurring.
The car is also oil cooled. Make sure oil is topped off and that the oil cooler is hot. Make sure there is no trash blocking airflow through the condensor/oilcooler/radiator.
Download the FSM lube/cooling/body chapters.
Front ducts are in the body chapter and the undercarriage panel is in the lube chapter. The cooling chapter should assist you with your overheating problems.
FSM available here:
www.iluvmyrx7.com
www.fc3s.org
