uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I've done that before, it's pretty damn fun watching 5qts of oil just spray out in 5 seconds, lol. That was on my old 84 Chevy truck.

I put one of those rubber thingies in today, and took it for some vigerous driving. I did break something else though... my rear calipers are now completly frozen after some "spirited" stopping. They were locked down, but I pulled them back enough to not drag, but just enough to keep the corrosion off the rotors. How much do you think a pair of rear calipers would run a homeboy like myself? I have a 5-lug, are they universal on the rear from 4 to 5?

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Takes a deep breath and tries not to burst out laughing-

Im sorry man, but that sucks. Just going to jbweld it?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I have some 5 lug rear calipers Ill sell cheap if you need...rotors, too.

BlaCkPlaGUE

This thread is hilarious, all the suggestions!
I'll add my two cents.

By now, Im sure you have a drill. Drill a ******* holy right into the oil pan with a decently sized bit, **** the bolt altogether, you gotta get that oil out so that it stops leakin all over the place. Drain it after you drill it obviously.
Order a new pan, weather it be from mazdatrix or a forum member, and a brand new gasket.
In the meantime you can leave the car till the parts arive, cause if you take em off now, dirt and possibly rust is gonna get on the now non oil covered inside.


My question in all of this is, if you lift it by the tranny, won't it **** up something? or do the tranny mounts to the engine hold up really good under just the engines weight?

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I have the new pan on the way, and I've been really strict about early oil changes (~2500 miles, never at or over 3,ooo miels), so I'll be ok with what I managed to get out, although it was really messy oil because I had put a half bottle of Seafoam in, and it's definatly removing hard deposits.

The new pan is on the way from the magnificent and wise Mr. Landers, who can possibly get me good calipers too, lol.

Wehn you do the oil pan, you use a jack with a block of wood between it and the tranny to hold the engine in place. I've done this before on my Accord to replace the alternator (yeah, it was that tight).

Tofuball

Victoria British sells some nice bolt-less oil drain plug replacements. You just put it in and theres a switch you push to release the oil.

I love it. I can change my oil without any tools or even lifting the car. I highly reccomend it.

sudseh

yah... that quick-change plug is ****

i have one as well...
no more messing around with wrenches to change the oil.
~suds

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I can't trust anything like that in a daily driver. This thing is going to be slogged through the snow and mud and the last thing I want is for a snow drift to hit that thing and make 'er flow.

Tofuball

This plug is designed so you have to push the whole thing DOWN at once, not just flip it like a switch. Then you have to move it diagnally up and to the side at the same time.

It's not something that will accidentally go off.

scheistermeister

if youre still looking for a temp fix use gas tank sealer. they have these little sticks that when you mash it together it cures in like 15 min and its pretty fucken hard too. since youre replacing the whole pan you could just cover the bolt and area around it with the stuff.

i learned about this stuff when i patched a whole in my old civics tank when a stoooopid fucktard at best buy decided he was going to use a self tapping screw to ground 1200 watts into my gas tank. in the end i got $1000 from them to get the tank replaced at a dealer and new trunk carpet from a dealer.... then i went to pepboys paid $3.15 and patched the pin hole :-)