Hesitation @ WOT
#26
Thread Starter
always modding
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 3
From: on a tiny island in the middle of a sea
it's a 91 S5 euro spec
which has an N/A S4 engine with a redline that starts at 7k.. and a dizzy.. they just come that way believe me i wish my S5 was US spec like my S4 TII was.. that way my FSM would at least be worth a damn
*UPDATE*
i've been "examining" the hesitation problem, when the car starts bogging/hesitating.. the car pops and back fires like crazy...as if it's dumping way to much fuel.. i can shoot all kindsa fire works out of the exhaust... so it's deffinately not a lack of fuel...
if i hold partial throttle i can redline it all the way.. if i'm say at 6,500 rpm and suddenly mash the paddle the rpm just plummets back and stays at 4-4.5k rpm and goes rrrrrrrrrrrrr as if it's bouncing off a rev limiter...
if at idle.. and i just punch it... the Rpm darts up to 4.5 and pegs there again.. same way 4.5 if i ease back the throttle to a partial/feathering then it'll go to redline... it just doesn't like WOT
could it have anything to do with the double throttle or the 5th+6th ports?
is it the possible the car is in some kinda limp mode?
could it be my timing is not auto advancing and spark is getting blown out on top end?
should i hook up my AFC-II and try leaning out the high maps after 4.5 K?
i went and bought new coils thinking the old ones might be shot.. $35 bux later.. no difference
tried swapping to the TII AFM, didn't work
found one intake leak, which smoothed the idle and removed the idle burping/popping.. made no difference to the redline...
keeping the fuel pump wire jumped while cranking made no difference to my cold start problem...
if i don't play with the door while cranking it just doesn't wanna start...
which has an N/A S4 engine with a redline that starts at 7k.. and a dizzy.. they just come that way believe me i wish my S5 was US spec like my S4 TII was.. that way my FSM would at least be worth a damn
*UPDATE*
i've been "examining" the hesitation problem, when the car starts bogging/hesitating.. the car pops and back fires like crazy...as if it's dumping way to much fuel.. i can shoot all kindsa fire works out of the exhaust... so it's deffinately not a lack of fuel...
if i hold partial throttle i can redline it all the way.. if i'm say at 6,500 rpm and suddenly mash the paddle the rpm just plummets back and stays at 4-4.5k rpm and goes rrrrrrrrrrrrr as if it's bouncing off a rev limiter...
if at idle.. and i just punch it... the Rpm darts up to 4.5 and pegs there again.. same way 4.5 if i ease back the throttle to a partial/feathering then it'll go to redline... it just doesn't like WOT
could it have anything to do with the double throttle or the 5th+6th ports?
is it the possible the car is in some kinda limp mode?
could it be my timing is not auto advancing and spark is getting blown out on top end?
should i hook up my AFC-II and try leaning out the high maps after 4.5 K?
i went and bought new coils thinking the old ones might be shot.. $35 bux later.. no difference
tried swapping to the TII AFM, didn't work
found one intake leak, which smoothed the idle and removed the idle burping/popping.. made no difference to the redline...
keeping the fuel pump wire jumped while cranking made no difference to my cold start problem...
if i don't play with the door while cranking it just doesn't wanna start...
#27
If it is ignition, then it really has nothing to do with the ECU?
With the distributor, it's all self-contained?
I would check the cap, rotor, points, spark plug wires, and coils to see if anything is wrong is signs of arcing.
-Ted
With the distributor, it's all self-contained?
I would check the cap, rotor, points, spark plug wires, and coils to see if anything is wrong is signs of arcing.
-Ted
#28
Thread Starter
always modding
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 3
From: on a tiny island in the middle of a sea
thank's for keeping an eye on my thread TED.. i really need to sort my car out, it's my Daily driver now that my 2 other RX7's are down with shot engines..
by self contained.. do u mean the vacuume/centrifugal advancing? or the fact that it's not connected at all to the ecu and just "rides along side it"
i haven't pulled it out to inspect it TOO carefully..
but it does have some electronic plug/connectors in it
whether it's to communicate with the ECU or to just get power and such.. i'm not really sure..
by self contained.. do u mean the vacuume/centrifugal advancing? or the fact that it's not connected at all to the ecu and just "rides along side it"
i haven't pulled it out to inspect it TOO carefully..
but it does have some electronic plug/connectors in it
whether it's to communicate with the ECU or to just get power and such.. i'm not really sure..
Last edited by Ottoman; 01-20-06 at 04:41 AM.
#29
Okay, how many coils are there?
If there are two, then it's most likely set-up like the 1st gen - leading and trailing coils.
The electrical connectors are just for signal back to the ECU for RPM reference.
Yeah, it's going to be vacuum or mechanical (centrifugal) advance.
Does it have a vacuum fitting on it?
-Ted
If there are two, then it's most likely set-up like the 1st gen - leading and trailing coils.
The electrical connectors are just for signal back to the ECU for RPM reference.
Yeah, it's going to be vacuum or mechanical (centrifugal) advance.
Does it have a vacuum fitting on it?
-Ted
#30
Thread Starter
always modding
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 3
From: on a tiny island in the middle of a sea
yup.. there's 2 coils like the first gen... (i changed both of them last night didn't do anything)
i'll pull up the pic and post it..
i didn't see any vacuume fittings.. only electrical...
*EDIT* here's the pic:
i'll pull up the pic and post it..
i didn't see any vacuume fittings.. only electrical...
*EDIT* here's the pic:
Last edited by Ottoman; 01-20-06 at 06:06 AM.
#32
I had the same problem the other day. The double throttle plates were not actuating due to low temp getting to the vacume actuator under the throttle body. Unhook the vacume line from the bottom of the diaphram that actuates the secondary throttle plates. I bet it will fix it. IF it does you either removed the coolant from your throttle body and or your thermo vacume actuator is bad.
I just left the line off.
I just left the line off.
#33
Thread Starter
always modding
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,667
Likes: 3
From: on a tiny island in the middle of a sea
i'll try that, but i don't think it'll make a diff
i tried actuating it by hand while revving with my hand, it made no diff...
i'll see what unplugging does..
this is so annoying and fustrating *sigh*
i tried actuating it by hand while revving with my hand, it made no diff...
i'll see what unplugging does..
this is so annoying and fustrating *sigh*
#34
i hope you figure out the issue. Might help me with my 87 s4 that has no top end. In my case i think it might be my 5th and 6th ports not opening. only when fully warm when i'm above 5k i start to stumble and only way to stop is by shifting and i always hear 2 loud pops then she runs fine. I think its flooding really bad because the ports not opening or something (sorry new to rotary). In my case the port open by back pressure. I think thats the tube you were talking about a few posts ago. I heard wireing the ports open helps the top end and kills the low end. Best solutions seems to be to fix them. If stuck from carbon clean the ports and of not enough back pressure try this https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/got-my-header-question-839970/.
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