rxspeed87

ok I went to install the my cone filter today on my NA and when I was moving the AFM the connecting plug was not screwed in like it was supposed to have been. came right on out and all 3 connections in there came out. well I got them plugged back in (dont know if they are on right though) and drove my car. sounded just fine. then hit my albertsons and when I came back the over rev buzzer kept going of and I was only doing 2k on the tach. now the damn thing will not shut up and the car will not idle.
any ideas
the only thing I can think of is I did not get the AFM connections in right. still runs nice power and all just no idle and that damn over rev buzzer.
any ideas guys

Six Rotors

iTrader: (17)

What year is your car?If it's an 87 N/A I don't understand your post--the connector to the the AFM is not held in position by screws,it's a spring clip.The connector has 7 conductors in it.
In any event you must mount the AFM more or less exactly as found or you will have trouble.

rxspeed87

my car is an 87 N/A
I know there is a spring clip holding the connector in place but there is also a piece before that right on the AFM that is held on by screws and those were not in place. and when I was moving the AFM it came apart.
I put it all back together but my over rev buzzer keeps going off and the car does not idle right. the over rev buzzer will going off.
have no clue what can cause this but the only thing that changed is when I had the AFM issue today.
what all can I do. is there any poss that it is my AFM. I know that the over rev buzzer is supposed to be based on RPM but when I hit the right rpm it alsmot seems to quite down now. the buzzing sometimes comes in strong but if I am crusing at steady speads it just is real weak.
help me guys


the prev owner is not making me too happy
since I bought this car I found out he removed the TPS, forgot to install a pilot bearing when replacing the clutch,and also seems to have put the shifter in backwards and then only put in one of the shifter bushings. all that atleast was fixed.

gr0undz3r0

That worries me. I was trying to get that same damn thing off the other day and ended up unscrewing those screws. mine didnt come all the way out thou so i dont know if it jacked it up or not. I hope not but i cant test right now due to well slot of stuff is off the car to say the least.

Scott 89t2

I have seen posts before where poeple have taken the screw part off and the AFM never worked again. had to get a new one.

rxspeed87

atleast I know the AFM is working
damn that thing was a bitch to put back together :-(
also I found out it is actually not the over rev buzzer
it is the add coolant light,
my bacon detector was in my way so I did not see the light. my fault just assumed that it was the rev buzzer was kinda in a hurry to get to work. faster car comes before my job :-)

so I guess my next question is were the sensor that tells me that
it comes on and of seemingly of it's own. I know there is enough fluid in there. could I have just d/c the wire by accident.
or am I prolly being invaded the rex idiot light gremlins

Keith

The sensor is right in the middle of the radiator on the top. If the wire is disconnected, you will have the light/buzzer all the time. If the wire is still connected, though, check to make sure your coolant filler neck cap is on properly, and has not failed. Check the coolant recovery cap. Check for leaks. What I am saying here is if anything does not allow the coolant system to maintain pressure, you get a steam bubble in the top of the radiator, which gives you the alarm. Just mentioning all possibilities (except a blown water seal allowing engine gasses into the coolant - but we don't wanna go there, do we?). Good luck.

Irv, Keith's dad

Green

haha I had the same problem... My friend and I didn't notice the clip to hold the MAF on, so we unscrewed it and pulled it out ...

Well After rebuilding my engine, I couldn't figure out how they connected, one of them was lost (tucked down under some stuff) and I couldn't figure out why my car wouldn't start HAHA Well I found the wire and put it on and tested it with multimeter... works great!

haha my add coolant buzzer wouldn't shutup either hehe

if you have the factory manual, it shows you how to test it with a multimeter to make sure it works correctly... Section 4A I believe.. you can even download the manual... I forget the page though..

rxspeed87

well I found my problem
there was a ground wire that was connected to the mounting bracket for the stock air box
damn thing was not bolted back in. not used to the FI cars
carbs are much easier to work on but a lot less efficient

as for the AFM that works great
bitch to put back together though