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Help stripping down to shortblock

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Old 12-02-03 | 06:42 PM
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Help stripping down to shortblock

Alright, this is not my motor, it's my friends, but he just moved and does not have his net hooked up yet.

The motor is an S4 turbo, it seized up, we a large chunk of apex seal in the exaust port. Hee just ordered a mazda reman, and its on its way, we can give them the core for some money back. But we have run into a few problems......

First of all, the 19mm bolt on the main pulley, will not come off. Using a ratchet and a hammer, it did not move. Using the impact wrench, it did not move (the impact wrench was stopping, maybe it was too hard for it I dunno). Do you have any ideas on how to get it off.

Second, the lower intake manifold, there are two 12mm?? bolts near the bottom that are stripped pretty bad... any ideas or tools we can buy to get those out?

Thanks for any help.

P.S. The turbo needs to be rebuilt, can you suggest any good shops that can rebuild it? As a DSM guy I thought forced performance may be able to do it, but I have not emailed them yet.
Old 12-02-03 | 06:48 PM
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From: BC, Canada
Reman should come with the front hub installed. Just undo the 4x 10mm bolts and take of the pulleys.
They pulleys will only line up their mounting holes one way on the hub, don't worry about it not timing correctly.

Use a bolt extractor to get the bolts off. Sears sells the set for $20.

Search around for a local shop to rebuild your turbo.

Also, your reman should come with a flywheel and waterpump assembly already installed, so you don't need to remove those either.
Old 12-02-03 | 07:44 PM
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Engine, Not Motor
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But if you really want to get the hub off of the old engine...

Take the oil pan and bypass oil regulator off so the engine sits flat on the ground. Put the flywheel back on, and use a locking bar or piece of chain to hold it stationary against the ground or engine lifting bracket. Get a nice long breaker bar (24" or more) and use an 19MM socket to remove the front eccentric bolt. Stand on the bar and bounce slightly. It will come off. It is only torqued to 90 lbs, but there is a lot of LocTite.
Old 12-02-03 | 08:42 PM
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I like the chain trick, have to try that one saturday
Old 12-02-03 | 08:54 PM
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Is there any site which has a write up on a full tear down to short block?

I've seen rotary resurrections but it leaves a few gaps in there.
Old 12-02-03 | 09:26 PM
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Originally posted by scathcart
Reman should come with the front hub installed. Just undo the 4x 10mm bolts and take of the pulleys.
They pulleys will only line up their mounting holes one way on the hub, don't worry about it not timing correctly.

Use a bolt extractor to get the bolts off. Sears sells the set for $20.

Search around for a local shop to rebuild your turbo.

Also, your reman should come with a flywheel and waterpump assembly already installed, so you don't need to remove those either.
So do I have to take off the pulleys and put them on the reman or does the reman come with the main and waterpump pulleys? Also... does it come with an oilpan?
Old 12-03-03 | 01:38 AM
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Originally posted by -Spool_TSI-
So do I have to take off the pulleys and put them on the reman or does the reman come with the main and waterpump pulleys? Also... does it come with an oilpan?
You have to remove the 10mm bolts securing the block pulleys and transfer them to your reman block.
The oil pan is included on a reman.

To go further on what was said above: a propane torch/MAP gas on the bolt will break down the loctite and make it significantly easier to remove.
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