matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

So I have been trying to research this, and I think I may have something figured out and would like you to verify it for me.

as of now the car seems to take forever to warm up. I am guessing that its because the thermostat isn't there to block the coolant from going through the engine when it is cold to enable it to warm up. also the AWS was broken so that didn't help the issue. somehow this caused my coolant temp sensor to go bad (too hot all the time or something idk) . this in turn would cause my car to not go into closed loop (or always be in closed loop I'm not sure if I mixed those up). Thus my car is running rich all the time. along with the acv not working properly because of bad wiring, and the crappy spark plugs not burning the fuel.

So basically because of these issues the car is running rich AND not.burning fuel in the combustion cycle AND not heating up the cat well enough to.burn that extra fuel in the exhaust, causing my high HC and CO readings.

does that sound right to you all?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

basically right, yes.

fix the ACV wiring connectors
replace the thermostat so the engine can get up to operating temperature
set the TPS to read 1 volt off the green wire from the connector(still hooked up) warm with the ignition on
spray around the engine with some carburetor cleaner to see if there is any vacuum leaks(it will run smoother if you spray around a leak)
set the idle to 750-800 RPMs via the idle screw on top of the throttle body with the engine warm
set timing to static 5btdc(right mark on the timing cover/pulley, off the leading #1 rotor ignition wire)
pop off the cap from the variable resistor at the RF strut tower and turn it counterclockwise until the engine starts to stumble then turn it clockwise 1/4 turn

lastly, do a water treatment on the engine by injecting water into the intake vacuum port while holding the throttle to about 2500RPMs, do only about 16 ounces of water per treatment at a time while letting the car rest some between each treatment, you should do about 4 treatments on an older car which will clean out the combustion chamber and superheat the cat to burn off an crap that is hindering its performance. be careful not to overheat the exhaust, so watch it while doing the treatment.

after all that go retest the car.

if it is still barely failing, add some denatured alcohol to the car to dillute the fuel to around 50%, this will also help clean the injectors while displacing the hydrocarbon based fuel for leaner HC/CO.

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

Wow thanks for the tips. Some things I have noticed though are when I turn the variable.resistor all the way lean (with the jumper wire in place) the car still does not stumble. It isles fine whether it is a the way rich or lean. Possibly bad variable resistor as well? Or just error on my part?

The wiring for the acv is fixed. New wires placed into the connectors and heat shrink around them. Idle is about right between 750-800. I will have to look into the timing issue but I don't believe it to be off. Although it does kinda backfire after a decent rev past 4k. That could just because its running so rich though too maybe. Come to think of it, the variable resistor may have no affect right now either because the ecu is being told that the car is always cold right now.

So as of now on the agenda will be to pick up the new coolant temp switch and thermostat. Then re-test the tos using the volt measurement instead of tester light made for it. Possibly scan the ecu again for any other codes. Adjust variable resistor after new temp switch and.thermostat and see if that changes anything.

Also on the list is to find somewhere that carries parts readily for rx7's! It was a pain to even find the leading plugs for the car. Nowhere near me carries the air filter, trailing plugs, thermostat, and probably most other parts. I definitely wasn't expecting that when getting this car. Haha. I thought parts were hard to find for my 75 280z but it has proven more difficult working on the rx7. Will be worth it though when she is on the road.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

all the other issues need to be resolved before the variable resistor will be effective, if it's still running that rich due to the cold condition it won't have any effect. you can also check to see if the blind cap is still in place on the AFM, it should be or it means someone has messed with it's setting which will also affect how the variable resistor reacts.

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

What is the blind cap. Where is that located so I can check it. Or is it in the fsm, if so ill just look it up there.

I figured everything.else.would need to be resolved before the variable resistor would work. I'm glad that's the case actually because that means it might actually still be good. Lol.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

it's a round boss on the AFM with an aluminum cap pressed into it to keep people from making adjustments to the AFM air bleed screw(it's preset for the 13B since these are universal AFMs also used on other makes of cars).

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

Oh alright I will have to check that when I get home from work then.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Adjusting the Variable Resistor also needs to be done when the engine is fully warmed up and not until then.

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

alright so after autozone giving me the wrong water thermo sensor twice, I finally got the right one from o'riley/kragens. But as my luck runs, I unbolted the altenator to have better access to the sensor. and when trying to unbolt the tensioner bolt, Of course it snapped off. I now have a working emissions system with a busted bolt in my altenator and have to wait until tomorrow to go get a tap and dye set to try and get the bolt out. haha.

I guess it not fun if everything goes as it should right? Anyways ill update when i have more progress. Thanks for the help so far guys.

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

So one more update. Took the car to smog today after fixing the coolant temp sensor (kinda...the ecu still throws a.code for it so something is bad in the wiring wiring somewhere because the sensor is brand new.)
I also installed a new thermostat.
Adjusted the tps to .995 volts.

Idle set at 700-750.

New (to me) AWS solenoid.
New leading plugs and all new wires. Still have to order trailing plugs since no one here.carries them.

AFM has not been tampered with to my knowledge.

The car is an 87 n/a stock everything besides a supra muffler at the back (least that's what I was told the muffler was from)

Now Here is the situation. Decided to try smog again. Previous attempts put me as gross polluter for HC and CO at both 1500 and 2500. But NOx was fine both times.

Today decided to run denatured alcohol just as a precaution when at a little under a quarter tank of gas. The car still failed but not gross polluter like before. It had twice the limit of HC and NOx at 1500 and about 1.5 times the limit of HC at 2500 but passes NOx at 2500.

Any suggestions on this? I will post exact numbers when I get home. Is it possible that the bad trailing plugs would cause the high HC? I have the variable resistor set almost as low as it will go. I will check it again just to be sure.

I'm not sure about the NOx. It would make sense to be the cat if it failed at both speeds but it didn't.

Any advice welcomed guys.

Thanks,
Matt

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

I have yet to check timing and do the water treatment that you discussed. Could also be a cause of high HC's?

Forgot to mention. The first tests were gross polluter for HC and CO. This test was just a fail on HC and NO. CO stayed at .02 at both 1500 and 2500 for passing readings.

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

Ok guys, I need help again. I am still struggling with emissions and have nearly everything figured out except for one wire. It is a green/black wire in the emissions harness. I have a few crappy pictures here.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There is a Green/Black wire associated with the Variable Resistor. The component should have 3 wires connected to it. Green/Black, Black and a Brown/White wire.

EDIT: The Water Temperature switch also has a single wire running to it that is G/B. This is more likely the wire that you ask of. This sensor is found at the thermostat housing. The sensor is used to trigger the electric fan found on autos and some if not all turbos.

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

I replaced the water temp sensor and its wiring into the harness. I will have to cut open the harness I guess and see where this leads. I was really wanting to avoid this though. haha.

On the other hand though, I keep getting low coolant light even though the coolant is full. Also he ecu is throwing a water temp code even after I replaced the sensor and wiring going into the harness.

S0 you may very well be right that it is the water temp wire (one of them atleast.)

satch

iTrader: (1)

I believe you are confusing two temp related sensors. The Water Temperature switch is not the Water Thermosensor. All FC3s engines have the Water Thermosensor but the same does not count with regards to the Temp switch as the Temp switch is a sensor that is connected to a single Green/Black wire and this switch is found on automatics and some if not all turbo models only so if your car is neither then the wire is not needed and should be taped up.

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

ok you are right. I replaced the water thermosensor not temp sensor. My car is not an automatic so the correct course of action would to be to leave it alone, tape it up and forget about it? lol

matt87FC

iTrader: (12)

so just another update for anyone searching emissions on here and comes upon my thread. My car has finally passed california emissions. After adjusting everything that everyone has helped me out with here, My cat was shot from the car running too rich and all the other junk combined tore up my cat converter. I had another one put on today and my car passed emissions by a long shot. So after adjusting the TPS and the idle and checking all other emissions systems, REPLACING the catylitic converter is your best shot (duh right?....lol) I thought mine was in good shape, but obviously i was wrong. haha.

So anyways, thanks for everyones help. Im going to go back out and enjoy LEGALLY driving my car.

oh and also, this also just goes to show that you DO NOT need to cheat the emissions test. Just doing things the right way and fixing it the right way will make your car pass just as well as "cheating" the system.

HAILERS2

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HAILERS2

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