carl_9_9

i have a rebuilt s4 motor. my friend. wants to build a chassis that wieghs....1200lbs. and put a rotary motor on it. he wants it to be a carb setup. my questions are simple.

what rotors should he use....
what do u need to run a distributor on a 13b motor.
what are some things he should be considering.
he wants to port. like a large port street port from pineapple.
apex seals. what should we go with. 3mm...... sounds like its mostly for turbo setups.

hes going for high hp with reliability. i know it sounds funny saying that but. its not going to be a daily driver. just during nice days.

what kind of pressure should he be running.
any info would be great.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

turbo?

he should go bridge port. get a regular distributor and run the 2nd gen coilpacks, and youll be cherry. 9.7:1 ratio on them rotors would be cherry.

carl_9_9

i heard bridge port is unreliable.
we want a non turbo setup. we want to see how much power we can produce without adding a turbo and etc to it. then we will decide from there. but high compression. we might consider nitrous. after

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

If you want a race car, go peripheral port.
and a bridge port is just as reliable as any other port if properly done, it's just going to be like putting huge race cams on a piston motor.

carl_9_9

naturally asperated street rotary car. 4 port setup or 6 port setup. carb not fuel injected. which is better and why.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Most people who suggest peripheral or bridge porting have never even seen either one, let alone built or tuned such a thing...

If this is going to be a street car, then stick with a street port or bridge port if the owner can deal with the crappy mileage. With a carburetor, avoid bridge ports.

Start with a 4 port engine and get a big street port template.

You will need to run a dizzy. Use the dizzy from the '82 or newer RX-7 as it's fully electronic.

Use the S5 rotors with matching counterweight and flywheel.

Use 3MM seals.

Fuel injected is better then carbureted.