FC3Sthebest

Hey guys haven't been on in a while n I'm sorry for that! Anyway I have a turbo II and she ran fine but I burned the clutch on her. Basically I haven't had the money buy a new one. I live in the northeast and with that terrible winter I let her sit for a few months. And in april when it melted I started her up and she had a very rough idle like she would bounce from 800 to 6000 rpm(ill try to post a video I took). Basically I thought this was a problem so I have not started her since April when this happened. But recently I was able to have one of my friends who is a mechanic over to have him check it out. He owned 2 TIIs one s4 and one s5. He said that the problem with the idle was the Idle Air Control Valve ( i think that was what it was called) apparently the engine doesn't think its getting coolant so it is bumping the idle. So he quoted me about $360 for a new clutch and flywheel including install. Then he quoted me at $160 for the IACV(if that's what its called). Is this a good deal? Is it a hard install process? Thanks for your help everyone. I really appreciate it.

-Bryan

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

360 is a good price for clutch and flywheel with installation.

However the issue with the idle. The idle air control valve on our cars is called the Bypass Air Control Valve. It is located on your intake manifold (bolted on to it). I doubt the issue is with the BAC since you are boucing from 800 to 6k RPM, but just disconnect the white plug on it and see if the idle stops bouncing. If it does then it is the BAC, if it continues I would suggest you start checking for vacuum leaks as it sounds like what you have. Other possibilities would include a faulty sensor somewhere if you are positive you have no vacuum leaks.

Yes, the BAC does control your idle during startup until your engine warms up a bit, but it certainly should not be revving the engine past 3k RPM...

Vdub2002

um, BACV, and honestly if its been setting and you havn't put fuel stabilizer in it, it could be a fuel issue.

but adjust the tps FIRST before you start replacing crap. And look for vacuum leaks...

ahhh, didnt read the dude above me, but just seconds his post

FC3Sthebest

TPS? Well Ill do some research before I start messing with things I am a pretty big noob when it comes do car work. Is it easy to adjust?

datz

thats a decent price for a BAC or IACV( ame thing, first one is the name mazda uses) a new one is easily $250+

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

First things first. Flush your tank, replace fuel filter. Then check for vacuum leaks. The BACV will not make the engine rev to 6k at all. Check/adjust TPS while the engine is 100% warmed up.

datz

if bac is the culprit it will only make the engine rev up to ~3k