Scracho

Looking for some guidence with my 87 TII. I've been having a slight idle problem for a little while now and I've tried a couple of the common things to correct it but no luck. It'll start, but barely hold idle; then it dies. Just recently I tried starting it and it'll start hold idle for about 15 seconds then start to shake, then die. Bad eye burning and theres smoke comming from the muffler after it stalls, almost smoldering like smoke. If I take it around the block it'll actually run over 3500RPM, but when I come to a stop... putt, putt, dead! But what I don't understand is that it was running fine before, then one morning this started happening! I've check the compression and fine; even bounces on both rotors over 95PSI. I've replaced the plugs, fuel filter, gas tank (Leaking), Trailling Coil, Old cracked Vacuum lines and I've checked and tested the BAC, Turbo inlet piping, charge pipes. I'm really starting to get frustrated! I've asked before and your replies have been really helpfull and I do intend on taking it in to the dealer, but I need it to run properly first (Trying to avoid $100 tow bill)

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Perhaps you have an extremely clogged cat, have you checked to see if your cat glows red? I think I recall someone mentioning the burning eyes was related to the cats.

Scracho

I was thinking that. The Precat and the Cat look kinda kicked... but why would it run one day and not the next. I almost have Rico's problem, but I've done the Compression test already. Hehehehe...

HAILERS

I see the basics missing in your list of things. Setting the idle for one. Timing for number two. Set the timing spot on. Start the engine. Install the initial set jumper. Remove the electrical plug from the bac(pure superstition on my part) for extra measure. Car dies before you can do anything???Pull the intercooler off. Find the idle stop screw. Its just below the small water hose on top. It has a 8mm jamnut holding a slotted screw. Note where the slot is and loosen the jamnut and turn the screw in a full turn. Tighten the jamnut. Put the intercooler back on.

A wise man would now pull the initial set jumper and put the bac plug back on and THEN start the engine. Now reinstall the initial set jumper and pull the bac plug. It should idle. If not repeat the first steps until it will hold a idle. Make sure the idle is not over 750 at this time. Ever.

At idle, initial set jumper in, bac plug off, turn the bac's screw until you establish approx 750 rpm.

A note here: the bac screw when turned clockwise fully closes the air off. Anticlockwise opens the passage around the bac. Anything past approx 2 and a half turns out is futile. Only the first 2 and a half turns have effect. Keep turning if it makes you feel good. Does squat for the car.

Lets make believe that you've got approx 750 now(dream world). Now go to your variable resistor(rich/lean screw if you insist) and turn it clockwise until the rpm picks and the idle is smoother. Then turn the bac screw in until you have approx 750 again.

Put the bac plug back on. Then pull the initial set jumper. The engine might rev up and down for five or six times if the idle had been set a touch below the 750. If it was set just above 750 you might not see this phenomenum.

I was assuming that you really have NO vac leaks befor doing this.

Now its really troublesome to take that intercooler on and off on and off etc. So remove the intercooler..Now you can go to HOMEDEPOT and get a piece of pvc that will fit in the large intercooler hose and an elbow of pvc to make the turn from the turbo outlet to the throttle body inlet. This way the intercooler is off and you can access the screws that need turning. Or if you elect not to do this, just take the intercooler on and off and on and off and on and off and on and off...................

The idea behind the above, is to make sure the bac is not influencing the idle when you set it. You can have a mucked up idle setting of less than 750, and the bac will try to make up for the low setting and try its dead level best to give you a 750 idle, and it may do so. But you will end up with the mine shaft if you try to turn the a/c on, or other heavy loads while you drive, and expect the bac to maintain the 750 as you come to stop signs etc. Its already overburdened at that point in time and may just let the engine die at the stop sign. You need to set the idle at 750 with the bac out of the picture. Once set at 750 you pull the initial set coupler and put the bac plug back on and put it back in the circuit.

I also assumed that the plugs were good and the wires were good. The bac's your best friend.

And for good measure, make sure your tps is putting out 1volt at the green/red wire at the tps/engine harness plug(not that green check connector), when the engine is fully warmed up.

HAILERS

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html