As the title implies, can someone identify where this wire should be connected? My T1 trailing wire only fires intermediately and I'm hoping this wire (the one my middle finger is pointing to) has something to do with it.




Here's a link to the wiring diagram, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for visually.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...condenser.png/




Thanks in advanced for the help!

~Ant

 

Could somebody take a picture of this wire connected to something on their car?

 

Yellow with green stripe (y/g)?

 

[IMG][/IMG]Looks like the lead to the check connector and tachometer on your wiring diagram.

outlined in red.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...condenser.jpg/

 

That should be it. Cut wire means a non operating tachometer.

 

I have same problem.. But tacho works..?

And my condenser that is connected at trailing coil, his mounting point is broken, so isn't connected, can make this a hesitation at about 4000rpm, and later ?

Thank you,

 

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/3800.html

 

so, you think it can be because condenser isn't bolted on?

Does help to add a extra ground to a map sensor, because car is year 87 turbo, i read somewhere that after 86 models have that problem fixed...

 

that's odd...my tachometer usually works, sometimes it stops working but if I turn the car off briefly then on real quick it jumps back to life. I see what you mean in the diagram but I don't see the check connector in the engine bay or maybe I'm overlooking it.

 

Hailers is the man:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...heck+connector

GABER: that link above shows the wiring diagram for your condensor too.

 

If your talking abouT A YELLOW wire with a Blue stripe........it connects to nothing. It's a CHECK connector for diagnostics. Never connect it to anything other than maybe a digital meter.

There is a condenser for the coil assy's power wire (black/yellow) that looks much like the one for the oil pressure sender. It should be connected up but I believe the car will run without it connected. Never disconnected mine to find out if it cause any problems. Not likely so.

 

yes, i dont have condenser connected because mounting point is broken, but car works, tacho works... But my engine have hesitation so i wonder can that be a one of problem..

 

NO is my answer.

The hesitation is a problem that happens at the moment the primary injectors cut their duty cycle in half and the secondary injectors come online initially at approx 3800 rpm.

Mazdas trouble shooting bullentin added a extra gnd to the boost/pressure sensors gnd wire. That had NOTHING to do with the boost/pressure sensor. As Mazda explained it had to do with adding an additional gnd actually to help the AFM. Note that all the sensor gnd wires in the engine bay are spliced together so if you add a gnd to the gnd already at the boost sensor your also adding a new gnd to the other sensor i.e. the AFM.

That said...........that extra gnd never did squat for me. I found the ECU gnd wires in the ECUs plugs and followed them up the harness from the plugs til I found a area to splice into those gnds and terminated that new gnd wire on one of the ECU brackets hold down nuts. Might work for you . Might now. Depends.

Usually at this point in the thread some squid suggests getting the fuel injectors cleaned. Bull s.

 

Thank you for explication..

Yes, i have already put a extra grounds at ecu, yesterday put a extra ground to engine and to a alternator. Didn't fire up car yet, but we'll see have any good....

 

ECU grnd wires at the ECU would have been pins 2C, 2R, 3G. 3A for a series four car. Just FYI

 

Thanks for the input Hailers and everyone else...I'll leave that wire alone. Upgrading to HKS twin power in the future cuz I can't burn my meth well enough