Driftmeister

Hey...

I posted a thread earlier (more power for starters) and I've been reading the trhead "how to make a beefy N/A", but I have some questions/problems...

Like stated before, I recently bought a 87 13b non turbo, and want to add some power.
It's my first rotary, and I'm only known with regular stroke-engines. But I really like this car, and want to take this to the next level. I don't want to take the engine apart coz' of (yet) lack of experience, but the 150 stockhp are boring as hell...

Problem is, I'm from the netherlands, and speak pretty good english, but the technical phraises are sometimes a mystery to me.
Perhaps some of you could help me out...

I have a few questions.

How do I perform this TB-mod I've been reading about?
That extra pipe running next to my left exhaustpipe, what is it, and can it be removed? what's the (dis)advantage? Is this also the "smog-thingy" people talk about?
What are ports/streetports? and port-activation? And how do I perform that?
What does the airpump do, and I read a few times people removed them, but isn't it there to give the engine it's air?
I read about emissions removed, is that something like losing restrictions for better whatsoever?
How do I get it to rev higher? I've read about +14k?

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

just search man, its all out there somewhere. Also, you do not have 150hp. depending on mileage and abuse, probably 105-125 whp.

Driftmeister

I know, but all of you know what for example ports and portactivation mean, but I don't....

Like I said, technical phraises are sometimes hard to understand, that's why I posted this....

btw milage is 37.500, perfect condition

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

eh, 125 whp

Icemark

Throttle body mod is usless on a Non turbo, unless major porting has been done to justify the extra intake volocity.

jays83gsl

Unless your motor is abused to hell, or you're used to 700 HP beasts, the 130 or so HP you're getting shouldn't be TOO boring on such a light car.

Anyway, about your questions (the ones I can answer anyway)

Ports are the things that give your exhaust and intake. By increasing the size, or changing the shape, of these ports, you can increase horsepower.

If the Netherlands has no emissions laws, then you can remove the emmissions equipment. It takes up valuable space in the engine's bay. You can also find instructions for removal under the term "Rat's Nest."

The Air Pump pumps air into your catalytic converters. These are just emissions stuff, and you can replace them with what is commonly called a stright pipe. If you don't have your emissions equipment, you can safely undergo the steps for removing the air pump.

If I was wrong on any of this, please, people, correct me. I'm sure I wasn't though

Driftmeister

1st of all, thank for the information.

The engine runs very good, and it is really fun to drive, but indeed I'm used to a higher numbers of horsies... (BMW M-power) But my friend is driving a modded '88 323 GTX turbo, and all I see are his taillights gettin smaller each second, and now I wanna give him a short glimps of mine

We do have some minor emissionlaws here in the NL, but frankly, they can be by-passed easily with a few extra euro's (hail to corrupt inspectors )

I've been snooping around this site in hope to find a picture-guide-how-to, but didn't find much yet...

step by step I'm learning more and more about the rotary's, I like it.....

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

nos

rs_1101

man ur gonna have to learn how to read some of those technical phrases. i suggest reading the FSM to start. that helped me alot.

NZConvertible

Personally I would not bother on an NA engine. There are basically no gains to be made. Turbos are a different story.

That's called the split air pipe, and is part of the Secondary Air Injection system. The air comes from the air pump, and it sent by the Air Control Valve to either the cat (via the split air pipe) or the exhaust ports. This is main part of the emission (or "smog") controls. If you're required to pass emissions testing in your country you will need to keep them operational.

The ports are inside the engineand connect the intake manifold to the engine's chambers (I'm assuming you understand how rotaries work). A "streetport" is just a mild enlargement of the ports that increases power but still remains streetable.

The non-turbo 13B's have auxiliary ports above the secondary ports that open at high rpm and load, allowing the induction system to be tuned to work well at both low and high rpm. On 86-88's these are operated by exhaust backpressure (that's the "activation" bit).

See above. Other than 89-91 NA's, which also uses the air pump to operate the auxiliary port actuators, the air pump is only for emissions.

The only restrictive part of the emission control system is the cat. The rest does not affect the engine's performance at all. However if you remove the cat, the rest of the emission control parts become redundant and might as well be removed.

There are only a very small number of drag-only engines that can get neat that, and even exceeding 10,000rpm is very rare. Anything over about 8,500rpm requires expensive internal mods to be safe.

You should go to www.iluvmyrx7.com/2nd_gen_manuals.htm and download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) in PDF format for free. It will answer most of the questions you have on understanding and fixing these cars.