Help getting started: Disclaimer Noob present
#51
OK, quick post to try and help.
The coil pack closest to your battery is the leading coil pack. Please ensure that the plug wires going from this coil pack go to the lower (leading) spark plugs. To make a long story short, your leadings are waste fired, so it does not matter which plug wire goes to which bottom spark plug. You will learn about this as you progress.
The coil pack closest to your firewall is the trailing coil pack. Please ensure that the plug wires going from this coil pack go to the top (trailing) spark plugs. In this case, ensure that the plug wire leaving the trailing coil, closest to the firewall goes on the top spark plug closest to the firewall, and the plug wire leaving the trailing coil, closest to the front of the car, does to the top spark plug closest to the front of the car.
Please verify this before trying to start the car. If you do not have the plug wires in this orientation, you most likely will never be able to start the car.
Greg
The coil pack closest to your battery is the leading coil pack. Please ensure that the plug wires going from this coil pack go to the lower (leading) spark plugs. To make a long story short, your leadings are waste fired, so it does not matter which plug wire goes to which bottom spark plug. You will learn about this as you progress.
The coil pack closest to your firewall is the trailing coil pack. Please ensure that the plug wires going from this coil pack go to the top (trailing) spark plugs. In this case, ensure that the plug wire leaving the trailing coil, closest to the firewall goes on the top spark plug closest to the firewall, and the plug wire leaving the trailing coil, closest to the front of the car, does to the top spark plug closest to the front of the car.
Please verify this before trying to start the car. If you do not have the plug wires in this orientation, you most likely will never be able to start the car.
Greg
thanks everybody for the encouragement i feel like its so close but i dont know what is wrong.
to answer the questions:
the headlight thing yeah Idno i was turning on the gauge cluster because I couldnt see anything because its dark in my barn and I flicked the headlights by accident i think
to the coil and plug wire dilemma
Yes I have traced the plug wires from the coils to the correct plugs in the past, that was like page 1 or 2 of my noobness. I will check it again next time but im fairly certain I dont have them switched and that they all go to their correct plugs.
any help would be great thanks!
#53
#54
thanks everybody for the encouragement i feel like its so close but i dont know what is wrong.
to answer the questions:
the headlight thing yeah Idno i was turning on the gauge cluster because I couldnt see anything because its dark in my barn and I flicked the headlights by accident i think
to the coil and plug wire dilemma
Yes I have traced the plug wires from the coils to the correct plugs in the past, that was like page 1 or 2 of my noobness. I will check it again next time but im fairly certain I dont have them switched and that they all go to their correct plugs.
any help would be great thanks!
to answer the questions:
the headlight thing yeah Idno i was turning on the gauge cluster because I couldnt see anything because its dark in my barn and I flicked the headlights by accident i think
to the coil and plug wire dilemma
Yes I have traced the plug wires from the coils to the correct plugs in the past, that was like page 1 or 2 of my noobness. I will check it again next time but im fairly certain I dont have them switched and that they all go to their correct plugs.
any help would be great thanks!
Have you done my suggestion yet? I guess not since you never responded to what happened.
Go try what I suggested from teh first page, and come back and tell us what happened! We can't give any more advise until you tell us what happened with our initial suggestions.
#55
You stated the opposite of this at least twice in your "first page of noobness". Check your plug wires one more time! Coil by battery = Leading = lower!
Have you done my suggestion yet? I guess not since you never responded to what happened.
Go try what I suggested from teh first page, and come back and tell us what happened! We can't give any more advise until you tell us what happened with our initial suggestions.
Have you done my suggestion yet? I guess not since you never responded to what happened.
Go try what I suggested from teh first page, and come back and tell us what happened! We can't give any more advise until you tell us what happened with our initial suggestions.
If using some 10W30, which is about right for temps under 80?, will work then I can try that as well as double check my plug wire to plug connections.
but as far as my knowledge from other very helpful posts and yours the plugs and wires go like this
O T1plug/wire O T2Plug/wire
O L1plug/wire O L2 plug/wire
thanks for the help
very much appreciated
#59
ok so after double checking to see if i have all the spark plugs and wires correctly assorted I put some oil in the leading plug holes and added some new gasoline.
it would not start.
it creates alot of smog though and the smog smells like fuel could this be unburnt fuel? if so why because I have spark to all my plugs?
it would not start.
it creates alot of smog though and the smog smells like fuel could this be unburnt fuel? if so why because I have spark to all my plugs?
#62
Whoa dude...
Alright, so when you're trying to start a car you NEVER turn the lights on.. Keep those things down and keep them off. No unnecessary electrical load, period.
did you put fresh fuel in the tank? How much is in there? Did you drain it before you added? How long did it sit for? Chances are if it sat for 'a long time', the fuel is gummy and you may have wrecked your poor fuel system with all these false starts.
Why haven't you just tow started it? Hitch it to your van with some rope (not chains, they won't break if need be) and get to around 15mph...put your car in 2nd gear and pop the clutch back. Give it a little gas to see if it's running.. if it pulls, depress the clutch and come to a gentle stop, while keeping the revs under three thousand, but be prepared that it might not idle, so keep them up!
After it warms up, assuming it has started, shut it off...change the oil, drain and flush the cooling system, drain and refill the tranny and diff...go get yourself a brand new battery. You may want to also go ahead and drain the fuel tank too, entirely! Replace your fuel filter strainer (Inside the tank attached to the end of the fuel pump) and the main fuel filter up on the driver's side in the engine bay.
Also change all of your belts and your thermostat.
If it doesn't start with a tow start, something's wrong... it's a little violent to suggest doing this but sometimes damn it, that's just what it takes!
Alright, so when you're trying to start a car you NEVER turn the lights on.. Keep those things down and keep them off. No unnecessary electrical load, period.
did you put fresh fuel in the tank? How much is in there? Did you drain it before you added? How long did it sit for? Chances are if it sat for 'a long time', the fuel is gummy and you may have wrecked your poor fuel system with all these false starts.
Why haven't you just tow started it? Hitch it to your van with some rope (not chains, they won't break if need be) and get to around 15mph...put your car in 2nd gear and pop the clutch back. Give it a little gas to see if it's running.. if it pulls, depress the clutch and come to a gentle stop, while keeping the revs under three thousand, but be prepared that it might not idle, so keep them up!
After it warms up, assuming it has started, shut it off...change the oil, drain and flush the cooling system, drain and refill the tranny and diff...go get yourself a brand new battery. You may want to also go ahead and drain the fuel tank too, entirely! Replace your fuel filter strainer (Inside the tank attached to the end of the fuel pump) and the main fuel filter up on the driver's side in the engine bay.
Also change all of your belts and your thermostat.
If it doesn't start with a tow start, something's wrong... it's a little violent to suggest doing this but sometimes damn it, that's just what it takes!
#63
Okay, try this first..
Pull all of your spark plugs out, and yank out the EGI fuse. With your foot to the floor and the clutch in, crank the engine over for as long as your battery can take it... Put your plugs back in.
Go to the store, buy a BRAND NEW BATTERY...
Should start. From the looks of the vid, your battery is pure toast. I couldn't get my silver FC going until I put a brand new battery in it, even with a car to jump off. It just wouldn't do it.
If that fails, go do what I suggested in my previous post. It'll start.
Pull all of your spark plugs out, and yank out the EGI fuse. With your foot to the floor and the clutch in, crank the engine over for as long as your battery can take it... Put your plugs back in.
Go to the store, buy a BRAND NEW BATTERY...
Should start. From the looks of the vid, your battery is pure toast. I couldn't get my silver FC going until I put a brand new battery in it, even with a car to jump off. It just wouldn't do it.
If that fails, go do what I suggested in my previous post. It'll start.
#64
+1 ...... its a little drastic, but should do the trick .... if you have a bunch of friends you could probably push it to 15mph .... but be careful and do not let anyone PULL the front of the car.
Good Luck .... let us kno if it works
Good Luck .... let us kno if it works
#65
Pulling the car with rope is fine, use the tow hook in the front bumper. Right before you pop the clutch have the tow car let off the gas slightly to give a few feet of slack. Worst case scenario the rope breaks.
#66
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 513
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
A few years ago, A buddy of mine and I found a Turbo II that had sat around forever...
Sitting will make compression poor, even with oil/ATF/MMO in the combustion chamber.
What we had to do was use a tow rope and tow the car in gear for a few MILES before it'd start.
If you've got a barn, you probably have a farm.
You need two people for this:
One person drives the tow vehicle. (In my case, it was a 1993 Honda Civic. Try and use something that will have soft plastic bumpers at the same level as the RX-7, that way if there is contact, damage will be minimal.)
One person sits in the RX-7 and applies brakes if it starts catching up to the tow vehicle, steers to follow the tow vehicle, or stop the car if the rope breaks loose.
Set the RX-7 in gear with the key on. (2nd or 3rd gear is probably ok. Use 4th if the strain on the two vehicle is too much.)
Tow it in circles at about 10 MPH for a while. Keep a constant speed to keep tension on the rope. Too much jerking will hurt the rope and the how hooks, it'll also hurt the driveline on the tow vehicle. Just keep a constant tension and wear will be minimal.
You'll probably get a little backfiring and smoke as stuff in the engine and exhaust manifold burns off. Soon, you'll notice as the compression builds, that the car will put less and less load on the tow vehicle as the engine begins to run under its own power.
Tap the throttle occasionally and see if you accelerate towards the tow vehicle.
Couple thoughts though... How much fuel is in the tank? Have you drained it? Drain it. Fill her up with some fresh.
Sitting will make compression poor, even with oil/ATF/MMO in the combustion chamber.
What we had to do was use a tow rope and tow the car in gear for a few MILES before it'd start.
If you've got a barn, you probably have a farm.
You need two people for this:
One person drives the tow vehicle. (In my case, it was a 1993 Honda Civic. Try and use something that will have soft plastic bumpers at the same level as the RX-7, that way if there is contact, damage will be minimal.)
One person sits in the RX-7 and applies brakes if it starts catching up to the tow vehicle, steers to follow the tow vehicle, or stop the car if the rope breaks loose.
Set the RX-7 in gear with the key on. (2nd or 3rd gear is probably ok. Use 4th if the strain on the two vehicle is too much.)
Tow it in circles at about 10 MPH for a while. Keep a constant speed to keep tension on the rope. Too much jerking will hurt the rope and the how hooks, it'll also hurt the driveline on the tow vehicle. Just keep a constant tension and wear will be minimal.
You'll probably get a little backfiring and smoke as stuff in the engine and exhaust manifold burns off. Soon, you'll notice as the compression builds, that the car will put less and less load on the tow vehicle as the engine begins to run under its own power.
Tap the throttle occasionally and see if you accelerate towards the tow vehicle.
Couple thoughts though... How much fuel is in the tank? Have you drained it? Drain it. Fill her up with some fresh.
#67
I strongly suggest doing what Pele says....Every rx that I have had to ressurect, i have done the same thing every time and have had great results....I would come and help but i live in richmond and blacksburg is a far drive.....Get some friend and do as he says.....And DEFINETLY drain the tank.......You should have a drain plug on the bottom of the tank...But, they do tend to seize(being made in the early 90's) so if it doesnt come with just a little bit of force, dropp the tank and drain completely........
#68
I do believe that I will drain the tank as soon as I can and thanks so much for all the help guys..
I havent tried to pop start the car because it has two flats in the front so I will look at getting some new tires
as for the fuel things go,
Acesanugal,
could you maybe direct me towards something that would show me what I would need to clean/replace on the fuel system at the worst?
also There really isnt any fluids in the car besides oil.
all the reservoirs are close to empty YIKES.
There really isnt much gas left either and I put about 1 or 2 gallons in
and unfortunately I dont live on a REAL farm.
but we have a large driveway and two entrances so it shouldnt be a tremendous problem if I were to try the 15 mph rough start thing....
my battery is pretty much completely dead and cannot crank the car on its own, I use my van (tow vehicle as well) to juice my battery.
would the power from the jumping car still not be enough to start my engine?
I havent tried to pop start the car because it has two flats in the front so I will look at getting some new tires
as for the fuel things go,
Acesanugal,
could you maybe direct me towards something that would show me what I would need to clean/replace on the fuel system at the worst?
also There really isnt any fluids in the car besides oil.
all the reservoirs are close to empty YIKES.
There really isnt much gas left either and I put about 1 or 2 gallons in
and unfortunately I dont live on a REAL farm.
but we have a large driveway and two entrances so it shouldnt be a tremendous problem if I were to try the 15 mph rough start thing....
Okay, try this first..
Pull all of your spark plugs out, and yank out the EGI fuse. With your foot to the floor and the clutch in, crank the engine over for as long as your battery can take it... Put your plugs back in.
Go to the store, buy a BRAND NEW BATTERY...
Should start. From the looks of the vid, your battery is pure toast. I couldn't get my silver FC going until I put a brand new battery in it, even with a car to jump off. It just wouldn't do it.
If that fails, go do what I suggested in my previous post. It'll start.
Pull all of your spark plugs out, and yank out the EGI fuse. With your foot to the floor and the clutch in, crank the engine over for as long as your battery can take it... Put your plugs back in.
Go to the store, buy a BRAND NEW BATTERY...
Should start. From the looks of the vid, your battery is pure toast. I couldn't get my silver FC going until I put a brand new battery in it, even with a car to jump off. It just wouldn't do it.
If that fails, go do what I suggested in my previous post. It'll start.
would the power from the jumping car still not be enough to start my engine?
#70
I've never had great results jump starting as far as comparison between a healthy battery...
Look, just do it. Fill the radiator, add another gallon or so of gas, get a BRAND NEW BATTERY...I repeat...BRAND NEW BATTERY! (Be honest, you know you'll need one after the car is drivable again anyways, just go ahead and do it) and go do what I told you...
However, I DON'T recommend towing the car along in gear to spin the motor like that. Pop starting is one thing, yanking it along against it's will is another...
Look, just do it. Fill the radiator, add another gallon or so of gas, get a BRAND NEW BATTERY...I repeat...BRAND NEW BATTERY! (Be honest, you know you'll need one after the car is drivable again anyways, just go ahead and do it) and go do what I told you...
However, I DON'T recommend towing the car along in gear to spin the motor like that. Pop starting is one thing, yanking it along against it's will is another...
#71
I agree.......
I've never had great results jump starting as far as comparison between a healthy battery...
Look, just do it. Fill the radiator, add another gallon or so of gas, get a BRAND NEW BATTERY...I repeat...BRAND NEW BATTERY! (Be honest, you know you'll need one after the car is drivable again anyways, just go ahead and do it) and go do what I told you...
However, I DON'T recommend towing the car along in gear to spin the motor like that. Pop starting is one thing, yanking it along against it's will is another...
Look, just do it. Fill the radiator, add another gallon or so of gas, get a BRAND NEW BATTERY...I repeat...BRAND NEW BATTERY! (Be honest, you know you'll need one after the car is drivable again anyways, just go ahead and do it) and go do what I told you...
However, I DON'T recommend towing the car along in gear to spin the motor like that. Pop starting is one thing, yanking it along against it's will is another...
#72
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 513
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
I've never had great results jump starting as far as comparison between a healthy battery...
Look, just do it. Fill the radiator, add another gallon or so of gas, get a BRAND NEW BATTERY...I repeat...BRAND NEW BATTERY! (Be honest, you know you'll need one after the car is drivable again anyways, just go ahead and do it) and go do what I told you...
Look, just do it. Fill the radiator, add another gallon or so of gas, get a BRAND NEW BATTERY...I repeat...BRAND NEW BATTERY! (Be honest, you know you'll need one after the car is drivable again anyways, just go ahead and do it) and go do what I told you...
It's not like cranking for more than 10 sec is a daily thing, and he probably shouldn't be cranking for more than 30 sec unless he wants to buy a new starter, as they tend to heat up and burn out after cranking too long.
However, I DON'T recommend towing the car along in gear to spin the motor like that. Pop starting is one thing, yanking it along against it's will is another...
The fuel injectors shouldn't fire much because the engine will be running higher than idle speed with the throttle shut and the engine will be pumping copious amounts of air, so flooding will be eliminated.
Plus the constant turning will work the seals, allowing them to begin moving more freely and wear off carbon or corrosion from sitting around. The oil pump and OMP will be working, and any oil he's put in the combustion chamber should loosten up and lubricate the seals.
Seriously, the Turbo II that I mentioned previously had 30 PSI compression on all faces (As measured by a piston tester with the release button held down.)
Afterwards, it was upwards of 90 PSI.
The car doesn't have a "will" to go against. It's a machine. The gears will turn if you put a torque on them. They don't "want" or "not want" to do anything. If there's something jamming the engine, that's another story and the gears will again, do their job and turn the rotors, hit the foreign object, and grind it into the rotor housing... Which is what you'd be using ti to do if you don't inspect the engine first. This is why it's important to know how it works and what's in the engine.
This is simply a way to bed the new seals in again after sitting, probably flooded, so the fuel has washed off any oil coating on the seals.
#73
So long as his battery has the ability to crank the engine at a reasonable speed, I don't see the need for a brand new battery. I haven't bought a new battery for any of my vehicles in almost ten years. I still have the battery I bought for my FB back in 1999. It's been lent out, put back in the FB, put in other vehicles, run an inverter during power outages, and sat around for years between uses.
It's not like cranking for more than 10 sec is a daily thing, and he probably shouldn't be cranking for more than 30 sec unless he wants to buy a new starter, as they tend to heat up and burn out after cranking too long.
So long as the engine rotates freely, how is it any different than coasting down a hill in gear? Or cranking and cranking and cranking endlessly with a new battery.
The fuel injectors shouldn't fire much because the engine will be running higher than idle speed with the throttle shut and the engine will be pumping copious amounts of air, so flooding will be eliminated.
Plus the constant turning will work the seals, allowing them to begin moving more freely and wear off carbon or corrosion from sitting around. The oil pump and OMP will be working, and any oil he's put in the combustion chamber should loosten up and lubricate the seals.
Seriously, the Turbo II that I mentioned previously had 30 PSI compression on all faces (As measured by a piston tester with the release button held down.)
Afterwards, it was upwards of 90 PSI.
The car doesn't have a "will" to go against. It's a machine. The gears will turn if you put a torque on them. They don't "want" or "not want" to do anything. If there's something jamming the engine, that's another story and the gears will again, do their job and turn the rotors, hit the foreign object, and grind it into the rotor housing... Which is what you'd be using ti to do if you don't inspect the engine first. This is why it's important to know how it works and what's in the engine.
This is simply a way to bed the new seals in again after sitting, probably flooded, so the fuel has washed off any oil coating on the seals.
It's not like cranking for more than 10 sec is a daily thing, and he probably shouldn't be cranking for more than 30 sec unless he wants to buy a new starter, as they tend to heat up and burn out after cranking too long.
So long as the engine rotates freely, how is it any different than coasting down a hill in gear? Or cranking and cranking and cranking endlessly with a new battery.
The fuel injectors shouldn't fire much because the engine will be running higher than idle speed with the throttle shut and the engine will be pumping copious amounts of air, so flooding will be eliminated.
Plus the constant turning will work the seals, allowing them to begin moving more freely and wear off carbon or corrosion from sitting around. The oil pump and OMP will be working, and any oil he's put in the combustion chamber should loosten up and lubricate the seals.
Seriously, the Turbo II that I mentioned previously had 30 PSI compression on all faces (As measured by a piston tester with the release button held down.)
Afterwards, it was upwards of 90 PSI.
The car doesn't have a "will" to go against. It's a machine. The gears will turn if you put a torque on them. They don't "want" or "not want" to do anything. If there's something jamming the engine, that's another story and the gears will again, do their job and turn the rotors, hit the foreign object, and grind it into the rotor housing... Which is what you'd be using ti to do if you don't inspect the engine first. This is why it's important to know how it works and what's in the engine.
This is simply a way to bed the new seals in again after sitting, probably flooded, so the fuel has washed off any oil coating on the seals.
His battery does not allow for high enough cranking speeds, and if you read back, you'll notice it routinely discharges at an alarming rate.
In regard to towing in gear for extended periods, I simply will not even begin to argue with you. You have your opinion, I have mine. I am frankly too tired to type out a lengthy explanation of why it's a ridiculous idea, so please, drop your 'I'm right' and leave it somewhere else. He needs to get it running and seafoam the living hell out of it.
To the O.P., what's the update? You don't need good tires to pop start, just tires that hold air. 15mph won't exactly be much of a risk.
#75
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 513
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
In regard to towing in gear for extended periods, I simply will not even begin to argue with you. You have your opinion, I have mine. I am frankly too tired to type out a lengthy explanation of why it's a ridiculous idea, so please, drop your 'I'm right' and leave it somewhere else. He needs to get it running and seafoam the living hell out of it.
To the O.P., what's the update? You don't need good tires to pop start, just tires that hold air. 15mph won't exactly be much of a risk.
To the O.P., what's the update? You don't need good tires to pop start, just tires that hold air. 15mph won't exactly be much of a risk.
Had this happened a couple months ago, I'd be visiting my GF @ Virginia Tech on a regular basis.