supermoose

hey doods. just read through all the FAQ's and searched for a couple hours.
im no noob to converting cars, did the first FWD GC8-> JDM RA RHD on nasioc, but i need some help with my 88 s4 vert.

88 s4 vert has no LSD. can i bolt in the rear diff and axels from a S5 JDM T2 and call it a day, or do i need to swap driveshafts or flanges to bolt to NA driveshaft.?

some other questions-

whats the physical diferance between NA and T2:

driveshaft - length? diameter?
Clutch - diameter of pp? push/pull?
Gearbox - im assuming gear width and case?


is my 88 Vert hood Aluminum? lifted a steel T2 hood and i almost died, the hood on my vert is only slightly heavier than the 13lb hood of my sti, and 1/3 the weight of the steel T2 hood-

are the S5 and S4 front bumpers direct plug and play? like fit up to stock fenders? i dont have any othe FC friends around here

sorry, cant find a conversion FAQ. im going to stay stock NA engine bay for now untill i figure out this rotory thing

oh- Also- any links or suggestions on why a power window wont go down? passengerside is stuck, ive read all the logicon and ECU and wiper/headlight switch, but no faq on windows


this is my stupid subaru. make fun of it if you wish. ha



new toy





TIA-

h

Brody8877

iTrader: (10)

physical difference between an N/A and a TII is not much difference but the hood scoop for the TMIC. They made steel hood for TII before 87.5 but anything after is an aluminum hood. S5 will fit into a S4, but dont think is direct plug and play because there is a little mounting adjustment i think, im not sure, and the turn signal is different.

why dont you bolt an S4 diff with LSD on instead?
S4 LSD gives you better response but it wears out - clutch base LSD
S5 LSD does not wear out and give you slower reponse - viscous LSD

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

To switch over to the TII LSD, I think you have to custom make a driveshaft. I believe Mazdatrix has one that they make, too. They are your friend when it comes to parts, by the way.
Also, the TII clutch/PP is slightly larger than the NA clutch. They are both the same type of operation, I just can't think of which at the moment.
I'm not sure about bumpers, but I'm pretty sure they aren't a direct fit, otherwise people would switch them all the time, especially when using a front mount. No idea on how hard it is to do, though.
On the window, its prob a bad switch. No idea on how to fix it, but there should be some stuff around. Maybe try searching for "broken window switch" or something similar.
Welcome to the world of RX-7's. They're a lot of fun, but they make you work for it at times. Pretty soon you'll be hooked like the rest of us.

supermoose

hmm. yeha, i was pondering the S4 clutch type LSd, but its going to be tough to find a good one. i dont really need super clutch lockup (had a 2 way kaaz on my drift AE86), the FC is my street cruiser that will see occaisional drift or track duty/togue pass. the GC8 is the beast car.

i thought the s5 was a torsen? am i wrong. if its viscus im going to run the hell away. me h8 vlsd.

hmm. custom driveshaft. i should just swap boxes then. i hate custom stuff, just OEM swap it all. either that or go welded NA diffy :P

haha

im hooked on Fc. thats for sure. all i can think of whne i drive my STi-RA is playing with the FC.

RevUp13b

iTrader: (12)

i actually have a s4 clutch type LSD off a low milage s4 GXL and in VERY good shape. Im also in SF =)

PM me if your interested

And i think T2 LSD is viscous

Icemark

S4 (87-88) LSD = Clutch type
S5 (89-91) LSD = Viscous
Infini IV (91) LSD = Torsen
S6 FD (92+) LSD = Torsen

And the 8" Turbo diffs require Turbo half shafts/ flanges and drive shaft when replacing a 7" non turbo diff

Covered in FAQ for FC.

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

~FC's have 'push-type' clutches. I don't know the diameter of the different Rx7 PP's, but just know that with your FC, you need a s4 N/A specific clutch.

~If your hood can be lifted with one finger, it's aluminum.

~The s5 front-bumper will fit and will be *pretty much* a direct bolt-on. The fender/bumper bolts might not line up correctly--I can't remember. Either way, the swap can be done very, very easily.

~For the window that doesn't roll down, it's probably a bad switch or regulator. If you want to remove the switch, it'll actually just 'pop' out of the arm-rest, then just unplug it. Also, if your switch is bad, check out Icemark's site for pricing and info on fixing it: http://www.mazdamark.com/serv01.htm

BTW, nice Suuuuubie.

supermoose

im aware of the issue of different half shafts and driveshaft, but is the T2 diff longer front to rear than the NA? i know on a subaru R160->180 swap, you can just swap the flange on the front of the diff to fit the bigger or smaller flange (depending on driveshaft you use), OR you can drill out a smaller bolt pattern (like drilling a 114.3 rotor with 100 pattern). is that doable- or the lenght of T2 driveshaft is shorter?

1 finger to lift hood. just wanted to confirm that such a thing existed, again- i = noob.

hmm. otay. to find S5 black bumper then :P

the scoob is friend of RX7. boxxer and rotar get along just fine, i know its my car coming down the street either way :P

Icemark

The length of the drive shaft on the turbo is shorter because the length of the transmission is longer on the Turbo models. The drive shaft itself is also larger dia on the turbo models.

Yes, you could change either the differential input flange to a non turbo one, if you have the tools and abilities, (the design requires pre-load to be re-set on the pinion, by using specific washers based on the pre-load position) however as far as re-drilling...from personal experience it is difficult to redrill the flange and get it perfectly balanced.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

A better way of telling this, look around the latch on the hood itself, is it on there with rivets? or not? Rivets - aluminum.......no rivets - steel

or just go get a magnet

I believe the TII driveshaft is slightly shorter than the N/A, but it was a while since I had them both out, but I do know there is a slight variation in length between the two, enough that it can't be compensated by sliding the driveshaft further/not further onto the yoke on the trans.....

supermoose

hmm. cool beans. so the diff's are actaully same length- then i can swap flanges and be done or drill. ill probably drill if its reasonable. is the diff inside female/male indententaion the same size? (or is one). in the subaru world the R180 has bigger driveshaft and corresponding flange, but the inside mating area is the same, so its easy to fit up and drill holes.

hmm. thanks for the help - im a conversion swap addict-

h

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Turbo-vert?

driftin8ez

just get a tii driveline from flywheel back. Bolt it onto the n/a motor and you're done. This way when you swap in a 13bt you're good to go and it splits up the work instead of having to do it all at once. the n/a and tii driveshafts are not the same at all so. You need a custom one made for n/a trans to Tii diff. or Tii trans to n/a diff.

'87 turbo II

iTrader: (1)

as for phsysical differences, all oy uhave to do is change to a TII hood, get a wangan spoiler (yours is a vert so if you are trying to make a TII vert then you'd need a special spoiler), different side view mirrors with aerodynamic holes, and then wheels and seats. That's be it for making the exterrior a clone.

Icemark

All US spec verts came stock with the same aero mirrors that was standard on the US spec Turbos in the respective years.

supermoose

ha. was pondering.

was also pondering doing a renisis 8 motor swap with standalone, but with icemark being smart and informing on 88 vert ECu running a 13B happily (im assuming a S4 13b-t), i may just do that..

supermoose

anyone done a s4 t2 motorswap into 88 vert before that can shed some lighton this?

h

cdaleracer669

iTrader: (1)

i like your subaru

Brody8877

iTrader: (10)

yes that have been done before.
you search up on this, there i was a write up on it, i think.
They made Turbo verts but not avaliable in US tho.