driftfx1

Well i just bought an fc. and the car doesn't start. the guy said it was floodin. which i took the plugs out started it let it dry out, then put everything back on but still nothin. any ideas.

brio125

does the battery have charge? does it crank or turn over? is there spark? mas informacion por favor

driftfx1

battery was hooked up to car, spark is there, turnin over just fine.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

pull the main fuse, turn the engine over several times, put fuse in, see if it cranks. repeat as needed till battery dies. worse case you will have to do the ATF trick. either case change the oil and plugs afterwards.

driftfx1

the plugs were wet, dried em, and tried starting them. Does anyone have a good firin order for me. This is the first rotary i'm workin on.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

go here...

http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/

click on technical on the left side, page loads then unflooding on the right side...

MidnightOwl

I had a bum fuel filter once that caused it to do just that, and replacing it fixed it.

driftfx1

yeah i might get the fuel filter the sock thing on the pump then try and start if that doesn't work. i will do the unfloodin. and post up lata thanks everyone i'll be doin this after work tomorrow

Zaldak

Thats a great site! thanks for passing it along.

driftfx1

ok i did the both unfloodin procedure and still nothin it did almost start. i left the plugs out to dry overnight and goin to get new plugs and wires and fuel filter and sock in tank. then try again. any more ideas

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

it can and most likely will take several tries of the pulling the fuse trick before it will even think about starting. don't give up on it yet. it can be a pain in the *** sometimes.

driftfx1

I haven't given up. I always wanted one and i got it cheap. it tried to start and now i will put more oil in the holes. i put a little bit. so hopefully it start tomorrow after work.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

small amount of atf in lower plug holes, and then push start it and pop the clutch

brio125

check fuel pressure and/or take out the fuel pump and check to see how much voltage it is getting, or if it even works properly. check the tank and baffles at the same time. replace the fuel filter.

if you can, get someone to hook up a rope to your pull hooks and put the car in 1st or 2nd gear and go about 20-30 mph down the road until it starts.

DREYKO

check the 15 amp engine fuse inside the cabin

driftfx1

lol don't wanna seem dumb but i couldn't find the fuse panel in the cabin. the car wants to but still doesn't I really need my paycheck to buy new plug, plug wires, and the oil squeezer thing to get the oil in the hole. i tried straws it worked a little but still nothing. anyone in houston texas wanna come help.

driftfx1

I found the fuse still good. tried to unflood it again and still no go lot of smoke though. I need to check compression. what else should i do.

driftfx1

anyone got ideas

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

to get any more ideas we need some compression #s to evaluate your motor.. sounds like low compression. do a comp check and post your numbers

driftfx1

will do thanks.

driftfx1

ok compression result in the first two plug holes, less than 85psi. i guess rebuild

Zaldak

No, thats not true.. you could drive the car on even lower numbers than that for a very long time, I was driving my old GXL on compression numbers between 63-68 on all three pulses on both rotor sides, now if you are looking for the performance of the engine when it was new then yes you will need a rebuild but if you just want to drive the car till such a time in the near to later future then you should be fine, what you need to see thou in your compression numbers is uniformity, Meaning 3 (as close to) equal pulses on each rotor and then minimal differance between both sides.

I strongly suggest you look up and read all you can about testing a rotary engine for compression and how they work to get a real good understanding.

how was the compression test done? did you look up and follow the instructions on how to test compression on a Rotary engine? and how do you mean first two plug holes? you checked the two top or the two bottom or the two front/back?

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Also, you're going to have lower compression numbers since the engine is still flooding. Its actualy probably in pretty decent shape if it was 85 in these conditions. There's a ton of factors in the compression on these cars. Hold the release valve down and have a friend crank it. Look fo 3 even pulses on each rotor. If you have that, then you're pretty good.

driftfx1

I tested all four the last two top and bottom were like 35psi, the top front was like 86 and the front bottom was 84

KeeganP

You only need to test one hole on each rotor. Sounds like you have a dead rotor to me. When mine did that it would still start though, it was pretty much undrivable, but we were still able to rev it well past redline, with lots of smoke and fun.....

It was really weird, but after about 5k, the motor still purred like a kitten