HELP! Clutch problems
11-10-03, 05:45 PM
#1
Fixentofixit
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HELP! Clutch problems
I've lost the ability to shift into gear while engine is running. I redlined my car on the way to work and when I went to lunch, I no longer could disengage (engage) the clutch. I know how to drive by matching revs, so I made it home and now I'm troubleshooting:
1) Master and slave cylinder seem to be operating correctly. When pedal is depressed, clutch fork moves and stays. (it does not creep back, so I think my system is airtight)
2) Clutch is not slipping. All gears engage if revs are correct for given speed.
3) After reading some threads (on a search), it sounds like either my fork is broken inside the bellhousing, or the pilot bearing is bad. When I press down on the clutch, I seem to feel a vibration that did not exist prior to this problem.
Any suggestions?
How hard is it to drop the trans in FC's?
I would prefer to fix this myself, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
TODD
1991 NA
1) Master and slave cylinder seem to be operating correctly. When pedal is depressed, clutch fork moves and stays. (it does not creep back, so I think my system is airtight)
2) Clutch is not slipping. All gears engage if revs are correct for given speed.
3) After reading some threads (on a search), it sounds like either my fork is broken inside the bellhousing, or the pilot bearing is bad. When I press down on the clutch, I seem to feel a vibration that did not exist prior to this problem.
Any suggestions?
How hard is it to drop the trans in FC's?
I would prefer to fix this myself, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
TODD
1991 NA
11-10-03, 06:58 PM
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Fixentofixit
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If I started the car with the clutch depressed, the car would jump forward with the turning of the starter, as if I had tried to start it in gear w/o the clutch.
I started the car in 1st to get home from work. I had to press the clutch to engage the safety switch, but this had no effect on clutch being engaged or disengaged. I've had other "I just lost my clutch and I'm 300 miles from home" situations, so this was no big deal -- until I got home and realised it wasn't a hydraulic problem. The throw-out bearing was making some noise (not grinding or squealing, more just a rotational noise) for the last two months, but I didn't think it was that bad.
Should I drop the transmission out and investigate?
TODD
1991 NA
I started the car in 1st to get home from work. I had to press the clutch to engage the safety switch, but this had no effect on clutch being engaged or disengaged. I've had other "I just lost my clutch and I'm 300 miles from home" situations, so this was no big deal -- until I got home and realised it wasn't a hydraulic problem. The throw-out bearing was making some noise (not grinding or squealing, more just a rotational noise) for the last two months, but I didn't think it was that bad.
Should I drop the transmission out and investigate?
TODD
1991 NA
Last edited by wherearemypistons?; 11-10-03 at 07:01 PM.
11-10-03, 08:33 PM
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I had this same problem on my 10ae a little while ago.. actually it happened 2 times.. the hydraulics were all okay.. the first time it was the pivot ball behind the shift fork that sheared off.. the second time it was the actual fork that had cracked...
you're going to have to drop it
you're going to have to drop it
11-10-03, 09:17 PM
#6
Yeah I as well had a similar problem. Mine turned out to be a spring from the clutch plate jumped clean out rendering the plate useless.
Yeah drop the tranny. the hard part is the Exhaust and a few bolts on top of the bellhousing. but otherwise its a pretty straight forward job.
If this is the first time for you to do this I would set aside a full day.
Yeah drop the tranny. the hard part is the Exhaust and a few bolts on top of the bellhousing. but otherwise its a pretty straight forward job.
If this is the first time for you to do this I would set aside a full day.
11-12-03, 10:51 AM
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i have a 13B RE-Cosmo and was wondering if i should pay $750 for a 4puk sprung hub clutch with a 9.5lb. this is supposed to match up with my 10AE drive train. is there a better and cheaper solution. its through mazda racing in simi valley california. any replies email me at Mixed_88TII@hotmail.com
Last edited by CoSmO88; 11-12-03 at 10:56 AM.
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11-12-03, 11:59 AM
#8
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Post thieft...My car is making a little "rarararar" sound coming from the general clutch flywheel area if i let the clutch out while the car is idling in nuetral. Is this the begining of the end for my clutch?
11-16-03, 06:28 PM
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whrearemypistons....i driven a car, my friends 10 ae and his clutch was about to go out so i decided instead of redline all the way home why not use my synchomesh and dry shift it? i did and didnt grind one gear.... but i dont do very often....just when racing and when i had no clutch or my firned had no clutch...he got it fixed though so no worries
11-16-03, 06:30 PM
#11
Originally posted by RRTEC
Post thieft...My car is making a little "rarararar" sound coming from the general clutch flywheel area if i let the clutch out while the car is idling in nuetral. Is this the begining of the end for my clutch?
Post thieft...My car is making a little "rarararar" sound coming from the general clutch flywheel area if i let the clutch out while the car is idling in nuetral. Is this the begining of the end for my clutch?
Now wherearemypistons? your going to have to drop the tranny. Let us know what's up when you drop it.
11-16-03, 06:41 PM
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Fixentofixit
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I posted another thread, but since we are on the subject, I dropped my tranny today.
1) Clutch fork and throwout bearing appear to be fine. Fork is not bent or broken (like I thought). TO bearing slides back and forth and spins fine.
2) Half of the fingers (1/2 of the plate) are bent towards the clutch disc. This caught my attention. Could this be why I can't get the clutch to disengage?
3) I haven't taken the plate, clutch, and flywheel off. I need a flywheel lock and I've done enough for a Sunday (my day off)
Thanks for the help
1) Clutch fork and throwout bearing appear to be fine. Fork is not bent or broken (like I thought). TO bearing slides back and forth and spins fine.
2) Half of the fingers (1/2 of the plate) are bent towards the clutch disc. This caught my attention. Could this be why I can't get the clutch to disengage?
3) I haven't taken the plate, clutch, and flywheel off. I need a flywheel lock and I've done enough for a Sunday (my day off)
Thanks for the help
Last edited by wherearemypistons?; 11-16-03 at 06:43 PM.
11-16-03, 11:15 PM
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The fingers should all be pointing towards back of the car, not the front.. the release bearing pushes upon the fingers to cause the pressure plate to "pull away" from the clutch disc.. if you have fingers pointing towards the clutch, then it's possible that the release bearing, even at full travel of the fork, does not have enough pressure on the fingers to pull the pressure plate away from the disc, causing the same symptoms you are having..
11-17-03, 06:12 PM
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Fixentofixit
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Thanks for all the help.
This is a real PTA. Both of my cars are non-runners at the moment. My 911 is expecting a rebuilt distributor on Wed. Strangly, I bought the RX-7 so I wouldn't have to trash my Porsche on errands and driving to work -- now I like driving the FC all the time!
I'm going to remove the pressure plate and clutch disc this weekend. I just don't have the time until then. I spoke to the previous owner today. Said the clutch hasn't been touched since he bought the car (2000). I'm just going to do the clutch job while I'm in there.
I'll post back when I figure out what the hell is wrong with the old clutch.
TODD
1991 RX-7 NA
1981 Porsche 911SC
This is a real PTA. Both of my cars are non-runners at the moment. My 911 is expecting a rebuilt distributor on Wed. Strangly, I bought the RX-7 so I wouldn't have to trash my Porsche on errands and driving to work -- now I like driving the FC all the time!
I'm going to remove the pressure plate and clutch disc this weekend. I just don't have the time until then. I spoke to the previous owner today. Said the clutch hasn't been touched since he bought the car (2000). I'm just going to do the clutch job while I'm in there.
I'll post back when I figure out what the hell is wrong with the old clutch.
TODD
1991 RX-7 NA
1981 Porsche 911SC
11-17-03, 08:14 PM
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Fixentofixit
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Warning: If you're clutch works and you don't fancy rebuilding your transmission, don't bother attempting this. On the other hand, if you have a beater car or just love the idea of seeing the insides of your transmission, here goes:
1) With car in 1st gear, start engine. Do not depress the clutch (if you still have one). The starter will move the car, turn the engine over, and essentially start the engine.
2) Accelerate to 3-4K RPM. Take foot off of gas pedal, pull gearshift into neutral, feather gas back up to 2K RPM (approximately). Pull gently back on gearshift into 2nd. You will have to vary the RPM slightly, but when the RPM is correct for the speed you are traveling for the gear you are selecting -- it will just drop right into gear.
3) You are bypassing the synchomesh. Race drivers shift like this all the time. (at least they used to before computers and paddle sequential shifting) Race cars use "dog gears", w/o synchro. It speeds up the shifting.
4) If you practice, and understand the principles behind what you are doing, you wil be able to row up and down through your gearbox w/o once touching the clutch (except to move away from a stop -- because, lucky you, you still have an operable clutch!). This is a great technique to learn. A failed clutch will never leave you stranded. Unless, you let it go so long, that you don't have any clutch disc material left. Then, it is just slip, rev, slip, rev, call a wrecker.
TODD
1991 RX-7 NA
1981 Porsche 911SC
1) With car in 1st gear, start engine. Do not depress the clutch (if you still have one). The starter will move the car, turn the engine over, and essentially start the engine.
2) Accelerate to 3-4K RPM. Take foot off of gas pedal, pull gearshift into neutral, feather gas back up to 2K RPM (approximately). Pull gently back on gearshift into 2nd. You will have to vary the RPM slightly, but when the RPM is correct for the speed you are traveling for the gear you are selecting -- it will just drop right into gear.
3) You are bypassing the synchomesh. Race drivers shift like this all the time. (at least they used to before computers and paddle sequential shifting) Race cars use "dog gears", w/o synchro. It speeds up the shifting.
4) If you practice, and understand the principles behind what you are doing, you wil be able to row up and down through your gearbox w/o once touching the clutch (except to move away from a stop -- because, lucky you, you still have an operable clutch!). This is a great technique to learn. A failed clutch will never leave you stranded. Unless, you let it go so long, that you don't have any clutch disc material left. Then, it is just slip, rev, slip, rev, call a wrecker.
TODD
1991 RX-7 NA
1981 Porsche 911SC
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