DigitalSynthesis

Hey guys, I'm trying to remove my differential and I can't get the bloody thing out. I've taken some pictures of the parts I can't figure out. Perhaps you can shed some light on it for me.

The instructions (in the FSM and also the generally useless Haynes manual) say to remove the front bolts first... I can't even get AT the front bolts, let alone get the damn rusted-to-hell things off. Here's a pic of what *they* want me to remove:



So, I tried to get that off. But that nut has to turn UP, not down.. and try as I might I can't get that pain in the *** to budge -- okay, I'm not tremendously strong either and my friend who is can't get his hand up in there to move it. So the next thing we tried to do (which the instructions indicate we need to do anyway) was to pull the sublink off:



But after we finally got that stuck nut off, we can't get the bolt out!! Its in some rubbery **** that just bounces back no matter what kind of force we apply. I've tried hammers, pry bars, air wrenches(!).. nothing.

The last problem we're having is pulling the half-shafts (driveshafts, whatever) out. But they are stuck on the shock. So we pulled the shock bolts off and now I can't get the shock absorber off the post no matter how hard I pry. I've pried pretty hard but I don't want to dent the shock case (don't have $$ for new suspension on top of what I've already dropped for the engine).



PLEASE provide any help you can, particularly specific help if you've done it before and run into similar problems.

Thanks!!! I'm at a complete loss right now.

Templeswain

This was a big pain in the *** for me too. I did it because when I swapped out my automatic for a manual I was told that the diffs had different gear ratios and it would be faster off the line if I switched em.

Uh, well after switching I noticed no differrence at all.

I can tell you that I did not remove any shock components. or that stiffening bar (if memory serves)
in your pictures.

My digital camera is at the shop, BUT I cut up the whole back end of my GXL with a torch and I have it all exposed as to what exactly you'll need to take off.

On monday or Tuesday I can send you pictures of it.

If you're doing this op. solo, then just wait till you have to put it back in there.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

1st off you are removing the wrong bolts for the front diff mount. Remove the 2 bolts on the other side off the diff mount.
To get the camber link off you might have to unscrew it a little then pound it out.
You have to unbolt the strut in the 3 picture to remove the halfshaft, it won't fit through there with the strut attached.

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=31039

The diff mount bolts you should be taking off are pictured in the link above

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Do yourself a favor and just drop the whole rear subframe.. it will make it 10X easier.. To get that lateral link off, try unscrewing it a little like 1revvin7 said, then just pound it through with a small mallet. I see that you have your jack resting on it..which may be a reason for the difficulty of removing the bolt...try supporting the car somewhere else.
As for the strut being stuck on there...try spraying some lubricant around it..and then prying from behind with a small prybar, or even whacking it inward with a small hammer (carefully as to not damage the strut)
From here you will then need to remove the top swaybar endlink bolts (15mm), unbolt the calipers, remove the front subframe mount(21mm) along with the its little retainer cup (15mm). Then unbolt the 2 rear diff mounts (17mm) , and the whole rear subframe will drop down. From here you can have easy access to the front diff mount and halfshafts. I've tried just pulling the diff out without dropping the subframe, and I think it is just such a pain in the ***...when dropping the subframe really makes it so much easier..

RacerJason

iTrader: (5)

Two words.. air chisel. It tends to motivate parts that won't seem to budge. And I second the idea of dropping the entire rear subframe.

DigitalSynthesis

Okay, so 1revvin7 I assume you would agree with Rxmfn7 that I need to drop the subframe first... those bolts are ENTIRELY obscured by the subframe there.

Hm. Dammit I didn't want to have to drop the subframe for this... lol.

Templeswain, its all about the gear ratios in the diff, not the tranny. Most diffs for S5 cars had the 4.1:1 ratio instead of the 3.9 ratio of the earlier models, but if you happened to swap a 4.1 for a 4.1, obviously you'd gain nothing. Auto/Manual is pretty much preference. I've got a 5-speed already so I'm QUITE happy with that. IMO none of these cars should have even been considered with an auto in the first place but who am I to judge?

Regardless, I was just wondering if there was a special trick to it somewhere. Its all REALLY stuck.

Oh, Rxmfn7, that jack was to take some of the subframe weight OFF the sublink, not the other way round. Its not supporting anything just lifting slightly. The subframe was weighing on that link already. We never found a position that allowed that bolt to come out easily though. Looks like a subframe drop it is. I think I'll wait till I get the engine bay and dash all replaced first though.

Any other tips and advice on this part of the swap is still VERY welcome... its a LOT of work. I have a few helpers who come and go (they have lives elsewhere) so I'm not alone with the heavy stuff but I'm the only one who knows much about what I'm trying ot accomplish the rest just stand around and wait to be told what to do.

THANKS!

Templeswain

but if you happened to swap a 4.1 for a 4.1,


Grrrrr. Yeah that's very true. I have no idea if the diff was swapped before I got the car.


Its all REALLY stuck.


I also had the option of an impact wrench.

And also totally agree with dropping the subframe. When I was in the process of taking it out I didn't
drop it. Struggled and I mean struggled with it and finally i dropped the sub frame and *blamo* came out. Getting that heavey thing back in there, well that sucked too.

Good luck.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

You don't have to remove the subframe, just drop in down 4"

DigitalSynthesis

Hmm. Well I'm going to try for it tomorrow.

I'm painting my needles on my gauge cluster right now (orange, as usual, to go with my silver indiglo faces. I decided to spend the rest of today removing my dash in prep for the new wiring harnesses and to clean the engine bay.

I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks for the suggestions and thanks for making this forum work!!

Icemark

Yeah, dropping the driver's corner of the rear subframe is correct. The haynes and factory manuals are actually exactly right on the description.

In addition it is almost impossible to get a diff back in there without the sub frame being lowered at least on the driver's side.

Man DigitalSynthesis there is a lot of rust and corrosion in those pictures. I would replace every thing I could.

DigitalSynthesis

Man DigitalSynthesis there is a lot of rust and corrosion in those pictures. I would replace every thing I could.

For real... I actually have a complete TII subframe with virtually NO rust on it. I'm probably going to just bolt it up instead. Its in VERY good condition and came with my front clip. No diff unmounting then. It should fit, right?

Icemark

You know I just don't know if there is a difference between the vert rear subframe and the turbo rear subframe.