cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

**Toiletfetussushi-No, no turbo lag, in fact it was spooling up fast as hell the day before becaues it was only 26F outside, not taking the wind chill into consideration, so, it was damn cold, and she was running great.

**Karack-If I get a timing light, just basically follow the instructions in the Haynes manual then? I'll check the CAS, see how it is. The wires were ok, but I didn't jiggle it around to see if it was seated well or not.

Thanks again,
Chris

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yep, it is simple, just follow the instructions in the manual.

cds00bsmg

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bump

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

I got the new leading "coil w/igniter" from the junk yard this afternoon. Heh, when I went to remove the old one, I noticed there was something down in one of the terminal holes. Looked to be a piece of old spark plug wire, or dirt, something stupid. So, that may have been a little problem. Anywho, the car was soooo flooded at that point that the oil needed changed, I'd say the oil was 70% gas, if not more. I cleaned the plugs, changed the oil, and am charging the battery right now. I'll follow up tomorrrow with whatever results I get.

Any other suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

Ok, well, I think I found the problem...however, I "fixed" it and nothing changed.

I was changing all the vacuum lines over to nice red silicone ones, when I noticed a plug that was laying by itself before. (no not one of the solenoid ones...) I took a closer look and noticed that the wire that leads into the one plug end was broken off. This woud be the one that goes to the wiring harness (I assume). On the harness is a free black wire. So, I come to the conclusion that the wire from the harness must have went there.

I wanked the FSM from a mazda dealer we know, along with a factory wiring diagram book. I checked out the FSM, and discovered that my knock sensor is no longer wired up, thanks to this wire breaking. So, I unplug the broke plastic piece. (The piece that connects to the knock sensor is not broken, the other end that goes wherever is) and strip the free black wire on the harness. I put a connector that will work on it, and plug it in.

I start her up, no change. So, my question is this, do I need to get the plastic plug piece from a junk yard dog and splice it in? Or do I need to dis-connect the CAS, set the eccentric shaft pulley to the yellow mark, set the CAS gear and CAS mark, then re-install. Or, both of these things?

Where does the knock sensor connect to the wiring harness? I am going to check on my buddies 10th AE, so that will answer that, but as far as setting the CAS back to the yellow mark and what not, is that necessary? I am assuming this is the root of my problems, since the car starts and runs and drives, just the timing seems to be retarding itself a ton.

Thanks,
Chris

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

Blah, I read some old threads and see that the knock sensor probably is not my problem. Should I just pull the CAS then and reset the marks? I am at wits end with this car, I have no idea what the problem with it is.

Thanks,
Chris

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

1.) Could the air bypass valve be shot? It is stock, it was vented to the atmosphere with a check valve. I will use a vacuum gauge to check it as the FSM instructs.

2.) I installed a walboro fuel pump, I did not do the re-wire. I also did not wire in a relay so that I could lower voltage. Is it possible I am getting too much fuel?

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

bump

cds00bsmg

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bump

eclipseaudio1530

this is kinda long but hopefully it might help at least a little. something similar happened to my car a while ago when i had just one new secondary injector put in and the other one was fine. well i drove around for about a day but later that night, it started to run like **** and than it finally just stalled and i couldnt get it goin, it just cranked over and backfired. finally after about 30 mins of lettin it sit and cranking it, it fired but ran like complete garbage and wouldnt idle unless i held the gas. there was constant afterburn and it sounded real bad. i held it there for about 5 mins hoping it would stop but it didnt so i said **** it and drove it. i got it to around 5 grand a couple of times and when i stopped it was running really well again. this happend again a couple of days later so i romped on it a little bit and it was good again. i figured the secondary was getting stuck open somehow so i bought some fuel injector cleaner, put it in the tank and have never had the problem till this day, which is about 6 months. i am not sure if u want to try driving it but it sounds similar to my situtation. i really hope u find out whats goin on with ur car man.

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

The car will rev to redline no problem, not in gear at least. I have not attempted to do so while driving it. You can drive it around, etc. Did a little paper test to see if it was running right though...so I'm lead to the conclusion that timing is off, I just don't know how, or why it is.

I took a piece of paper, and put it near the exhaust tip, (car has single exhaust) and it blows it out, and sucks it in. If the car is running and firing correctly, it should blow it out at all times. Or at least thats what I am told...

I am going to set the eccentric shaft pulley to the yellow mark, yank the CAS, reset all the markings, and plop it back in there, and see if that makes a difference. At this point, I don't have much to lose. I also discovered the block off plates are leaking a small amount of vacuum, so they will need re-sealed, even though they were already sealed with what apperas to be JB WELD/QUICK?

Thanks,
Chris

Whizbang

JB weld quick sucks. The real JB weld can put engine blocks back together.

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

whatever it is, its a real bitch to get off.