cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Kevin. I'll have to check out those injectors like you said to do in the first place. My friend has a new set of 550's just in case. I asked about the ground because the trailing igniter has what I assumed to be a ground wire bolted to the strut tower. I'll check for vacum leaks, injectors being clogged, or even the posability of one being stuck open. I'll post my results this weekend. Once again, everyones help is appreciated.

**Oh, L1 and T1 go to the front rotor right, and L2 and T2 to the rear rotor?**

I believe I screwed up the second paragraph of my previous post. I MEANT to say this:

If the motor is running, I can pull the L2 wire from the L2 igniter "post" and the motor will still run. (L1 wire is still connected to L1 igniter "post"). If motor is running, and I pull the L1 wire from the L1 igniter "post", the motor dies immediately. (L2 wire still connected to the L2 igniter "post"). So, the ONLY time the motor dies if the L1 wire is pulled from the L1 igniter "post".

"post"=coil, or whatever the term is.

Thanks,
Chris

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

bump

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

All lines checked. No popped off hoses,caps, etc. Everything is secure. I am going to replace all the vacuum hoses with silicone hose and mini-clamp or zip tie everything off so things will be a little more secure.

1.) Question, the rubber washer/o-rings that are below the oval plastic piece. (where the primary injectors go into the mid plate) How vital is it that they are in good/new condition? These are in decent shape, not broken in two pieces, or cracked down the sides, just the center where the injector was seated into each is kind of worn.

No one was around to help me with cranking of the motor to check the spary pattern, going to have to wait until this evening, or tomorrow when Dad can assist me. I'll post the results later.

Oh, in regards to this diagram...I also have a question.
(I was not able to save the picture, then re-upload it because it is 166k)

LINK: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...s+nest+removal

This is an s5 diagram right? Anyway, the line on my firewall, that my charcol canister is connected to, goes to the drivers side, and connects to another hard line near the bottom of the car. I wanted to know if I should T my oil neck breather into the rubber hose? Or not?

I think thats it. Thanks again.
Thank you,
Chris

fastest2ndgen

Actually the coils ground from there mounts on the body!!

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

That's why I have my coils for my rebuilt engine test stand mounted to a piece of wood and they still work.

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

Can someone answer these questions for me? Even if the questiosn are simplistic, or dumb, can you just answer them? Thanks!

1.) Oh, L1 and T1 go to the front rotor right, and L2 and T2 to the rear rotor? (stupid question)

2.) Question, the rubber washer/o-rings that are below the oval plastic piece. (where the primary injectors go into the mid plate) How vital is it that they are in good/new condition? These are in decent shape, not broken in two pieces, or cracked down the sides, just the center where the injector was seated into each is kind of worn.

3.) Oh, in regards to this diagram...I also have a question.
(I was not able to save the picture, then re-upload it because it is 166k)

LINK: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ts+nest+removal

This is an s5 diagram right? Anyway, the line on my firewall, that my charcol canister is connected to, goes to the drivers side, and connects to another hard line near the bottom of the car. I wanted to know if I should T my oil neck breather into the rubber hose? Or not?

Thank you,
Chris

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

1) L1 goes to the front lower spark plug, T1 goes to the front upper spark plug. L2 goes to the rear lower spark plug and T2 goes to the rear upper spark plug.

2)the upper spacers are just that, spacers. mine are worn but the still hold the injectors down just fine. if you want you can replace them but they are only as vital as they hold the injectors down into their seats.

3) link does not work




lol Kevin, yeah, the coil ground is supplied by the ECU not the body...


Chris, did the spray pattern test come out ok? also how did the spark plugs look when you pulled them out? i couldn't remember if you said what condition they were in, this does sound like a wire arcing to me though, i have run into it many times on piston engines as the engine warms up and the resistance rises the spark tends to arc more than when it is cold. check the coils and wire ends for corrosion and ohm test the wires, lastly run the engine in the dark with no lights and examine the spark plug wire paths and see if you notice any arcing from the wires or boots. if the spark plugs look old then just replace them and restest it, paying more close attention to the leading plugs as they are the primary source for ignition.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

The trigger for the ignitor which controls the coil comes from the ecu. The coil itself gets grounded by the engine, as described above. BUt the ignitor may require an ecu ground, I've never bothered to check.

Go out to your car, crank it up, unbolt the leading coil, lift it off the car and sit it on a towel and see if the car dies. Bet it doesnt.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i still say it sounds like a secondary ignition problem.

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the answers. I know some of them are common sense, but I get paranoid and have to double, triple, etc. check everything.

**The link works on page 2 of this thread, I don't know why it won't work now...blah

I have to check the spray pattern, along with everything else recommended. I also still believe it is a secondary ignition problem, but since the car has had fuel problems in the past, and since I have the UIM off to check/replace the vacuum hoses, might as well check the injectors out too. Process of elimination as someone said. (the high pressure filter was changed before I got the car, and was Bill cut it open, he said it was pretty/very clean ) (The intank filter was pretty clean as well when I changed the pump to the walboro unit.)

*Karack-when the plugs were pulled they were black, fouled pretty good. There was gas/oil mix on them as well. So I have a plug sand blaster, and just hit them with it. They look ok now. The plug wires on the other hand, are probably the factory original set...they are pretty beat. I will also ohm test them as you suggested.

Thanks again for the help and input. I'm sure I'll have it figured out by the weekend. I appreciate your guys time and devotion to helping me out. Thanks again!!

Thanks,
Chris

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

Blah, things just get worse and worse. Alright, so I go get a new set of plug wires just for the hell of it. (Borg Warner set from Pep Boys, NGK would take 3 days to get) So, I figure I''ll check my spray pattern now. I re-install the EGI fuse, crank her over, the spray pattern seems fine, and the cup fills with a pretty good amount of fuel for only cranking 3 times.

So, I remove all the old plug wires, and while re-installing the new ones, I have my trouble light laying on the oil fil neck, the wiring harness plugs that go into the throttle body and elbow are nearby. So, I'm re-installing the plugs, and the trouble light arcs on something, and sparks like hell. Nothing catches on fire, so, I move it and hang it from one of the holes in the hood.

My Mom comes home, and I ask her once again to crank the car over, just so I can check the spary pattern again. Well, now theres no power to the ignition. There is power to the headlights, to the interior door lights. There is no power to the ignition at all. You can hit the key, and at either position nothing. No idiot lights light up, the turbo timer doesn't light, no stereo, no cigarette light (I have a radar detector) nothing.

So, what the hell did I do? I checked all the interior fuses, none are blown. I checked the underhood fuses (EGI, etc.) none are blown. Things just got a lot more complicated, and I'm starting to get discouraged now. I thought I had everything all peachy keen, but then I go and **** the electrical system somehow. So, I now need advice on what I did, and how I can fix it?

Thanks,
Chris

Whizbang

im sorry your car hates you...

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

Bump

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

bump.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

don't get discouraged, im going out tomorrow morning to pull my engine out for a third try to do a successful overhaul. just take your time and you eventually will get it right but i do feel your pain.


for now i suggest becoming familiar with the FSM wiring diagram, check the ignition circuit for any crossovers where you had your test light plugged into the circuit and check that circuit for a fusible link or a relay or switch failure or anything of the like.


something else to try that is simple but sometimes helps is to merely disconnect the battery and let it sit for 15 mins then reconnect it. sounds dumb but i have had alot of wierd problems solved by doing this simple step, usually on vehicles with an alarm system of some sort or a controller problem though.

Bob_The_Normal

Not to hijack this thread but can you PM me, or do you have AIM? I'd like to hear your story on the rebuilds... I'm doing my own S5 N/A rebuild. I'm painting the irons and housings right now, putting it back together this week. I'd really like to hear what went wrong and right for you!

--Gary

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i will PM you later this evening hopefully when i find out the clear answer on what is going on with it, i am going out right now to pull the engine out.

toiletfetussushi

Im having the EXACT same problem...

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE:

Yea, I should be more careful when looking over the fuses. It was hard to see through the little plastic window, but the main 80A fuse was blown. Got a new one at Auto Bone today for $2.49.

So, I slap everything back together, after checking the injector spray pattern one last time. (A-OK there). I get in, fire her up, still runs crappy. I am still convinced the leading igniter is toast. I'm going to go to the bone yard and gank a leading and trailing igniter off of a S5 N/A and give that a shot. I will post the results later this week, since the bone yard is not open right now.

**Note, the car has new plugs, and wires installed right now, oh, and a new main fuse . Anywho, I think thats about it, everything else checks out, car just sounds like a mis-fire, or like one of the plugs is not firing at all. Oh, are the igniter coils universal for the N/A's and TII's or not?

Thanks,
Chris

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

did we cover checking the timing? if not that is something you should also check.

Bob_The_Normal

Man there's an S5 N/A in a junkyard near you?

I wish we had those around here... last I checked the whole yard had 1 S4 in it... and that was raped.

But I raped it more. ;D I practiced engine disassembly with it. hahaha...

--Gary

toiletfetussushi

Dude. Im having the exact same problem as you and my turbo just blew up.. My oil pressure just dropped and white smoke started pouring out of the exhaust.. Id park that damn thing if I were you.

cds00bsmg

iTrader: (1)

The car is parked. I have not tried to drive it since it started giving me problems. Anywho, timing eh? I guess I could check it, but I don't see how it would go from normal to jacked up all by itself. Anything is possible though. Anywho, I don't have a timing light, but I can go buy one I guess. What do I need to do, and how do I go about checking the timing?

Any other suggestions, besides selling it? lol.

Thanks again. I'll **** some igniters anyway, not gonna hurt to have a spare set laying around. Take care all, I apprecaite the help!

Thanks,
Chris

toiletfetussushi

was you turbo lagging alot? I wasnt making boost until about 5k.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

well you can just check to be sure the bolt is tight and the CAS hasn't moved in the cover if you don't have a timing light.