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#26
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trailing coils have nothing to do with running the car, they are there simply for the tach in the dash, the power steering, the cruise control and to help clean up emissions.
You can run a FC just fine without the trailing coils even plugged in. If you can't... then you probably have a problem with the leading coils as well; as they are required to run the vehicle.
You can run a FC just fine without the trailing coils even plugged in. If you can't... then you probably have a problem with the leading coils as well; as they are required to run the vehicle.
#27
(blank)
iTrader: (1)
Checking compression and voltage are easy and quick. They can be both done with very limited tools and time (i.e. less time than buying an alternator). Borrow a voltmeter and compression gauge if need be. See my sig. for the FSM, look at the troubleshooting section, and go from there.
The car should have ran fine when it was started and hooked up to another running car (you mentioned a truck, actually). You have to diagnose the problem systematically to narrow it down to what system is affected. Don't ignore easy things like a loose vacuum hose or intake duct.
The car should have ran fine when it was started and hooked up to another running car (you mentioned a truck, actually). You have to diagnose the problem systematically to narrow it down to what system is affected. Don't ignore easy things like a loose vacuum hose or intake duct.
#28
Just to update....
Dealer says my issue was a bad altenator and a toasted battery. They offered to fix it for the low price of $495.
I drove it home ( bad Alternator and all ) and will be upgrading to the FD alternator this weekend. I guess I need to test the Optima and see if it's really toast.
Good luck and listen to the guys that have been here for awhile. I'm new to the rotary, so I'm learning a lot from this forum.
Rob
Dealer says my issue was a bad altenator and a toasted battery. They offered to fix it for the low price of $495.
I drove it home ( bad Alternator and all ) and will be upgrading to the FD alternator this weekend. I guess I need to test the Optima and see if it's really toast.
Good luck and listen to the guys that have been here for awhile. I'm new to the rotary, so I'm learning a lot from this forum.
Rob
#29
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Just to update....
Dealer says my issue was a bad altenator and a toasted battery. They offered to fix it for the low price of $495.
I drove it home ( bad Alternator and all ) and will be upgrading to the FD alternator this weekend. I guess I need to test the Optima and see if it's really toast.
Good luck and listen to the guys that have been here for awhile. I'm new to the rotary, so I'm learning a lot from this forum.
Rob
Dealer says my issue was a bad altenator and a toasted battery. They offered to fix it for the low price of $495.
I drove it home ( bad Alternator and all ) and will be upgrading to the FD alternator this weekend. I guess I need to test the Optima and see if it's really toast.
Good luck and listen to the guys that have been here for awhile. I'm new to the rotary, so I'm learning a lot from this forum.
Rob
how much did the dealership charge you for the diagnostic?
#30
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My optima is COMPLETELY dead, and i have to have someone jumpstart my car to see if it will run everytime i think ive fixed it.
BUT i just found this plug that wasnt connected, and i was wondering if it was a sensor that would keep my car from running? or if its not that big of deal?
BUT i just found this plug that wasnt connected, and i was wondering if it was a sensor that would keep my car from running? or if its not that big of deal?
#31
$95 for the diag. I had no idea what was wrong at the time my car died. Acted like one of those cars where the UFO flys over and all the electronics die, then 15 min later it's fine.
and yes, all of the sensor's are important until proven otherwise. Does the car run better now with the sensor plugged in?
and yes, all of the sensor's are important until proven otherwise. Does the car run better now with the sensor plugged in?
#32
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$95 for the diag. I had no idea what was wrong at the time my car died. Acted like one of those cars where the UFO flys over and all the electronics die, then 15 min later it's fine.
and yes, all of the sensor's are important until proven otherwise. Does the car run better now with the sensor plugged in?
and yes, all of the sensor's are important until proven otherwise. Does the car run better now with the sensor plugged in?
I have to ask my neighbor to jumpstart it everytime i think ive fixed it. lol
So i need someone to jump it.
#33
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first wow icemark stopped helping you. go and get a battery charger and 2 simple tools (compression checker & voltmeter). and then maybe someone can actually help you
#35
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well im not sure but im gonna check the fsmhttp://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/index.html and most questions can be answered by looking there.
#38
Automatic = Power drain
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Can you hear if your fuel pump is running?
You can tell us the battery voltage from the volt gauge in the car.
The air intake temperature is an important tool for the engine managment.
I doubt that is what caused your problem though.
If the can will stay running at wide open throttle but not anywhere else, it is most likely a vacuum leak. look for a vacuum line that popped off.
Spark notes:
Check if Fuel pump is running and if you have vacuum leaks.
You can tell us the battery voltage from the volt gauge in the car.
The air intake temperature is an important tool for the engine managment.
I doubt that is what caused your problem though.
If the can will stay running at wide open throttle but not anywhere else, it is most likely a vacuum leak. look for a vacuum line that popped off.
Spark notes:
Check if Fuel pump is running and if you have vacuum leaks.
#39
Automatic = Power drain
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let me clarify my previous post... The fuel pump is obviously running while cranking, but is it running while idling? The fuel pump will not come on unless the AFM sees air flow, with a large boost leak, this could be the problem.
Also, I see you have the intercooler removed, you are bypassing it with a piece of pvc or something when trying to run the car, right? It is also ok to reconnect the intercooler before starting, but the car won't run without a connection there.
(I guess that you probably know this, but it never hurts to mention it.)
Also, I see you have the intercooler removed, you are bypassing it with a piece of pvc or something when trying to run the car, right? It is also ok to reconnect the intercooler before starting, but the car won't run without a connection there.
(I guess that you probably know this, but it never hurts to mention it.)
#40
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let me clarify my previous post... The fuel pump is obviously running while cranking, but is it running while idling? The fuel pump will not come on unless the AFM sees air flow, with a large boost leak, this could be the problem.
Also, I see you have the intercooler removed, you are bypassing it with a piece of pvc or something when trying to run the car, right? It is also ok to reconnect the intercooler before starting, but the car won't run without a connection there.
(I guess that you probably know this, but it never hurts to mention it.)
Also, I see you have the intercooler removed, you are bypassing it with a piece of pvc or something when trying to run the car, right? It is also ok to reconnect the intercooler before starting, but the car won't run without a connection there.
(I guess that you probably know this, but it never hurts to mention it.)
I always put everything back together before i try to start it.
#41
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
#42
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#45
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#47
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#48
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.