Hello Club i need help :(
03-22-12, 05:36 PM
#1
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
Hello Club i need help :(
Hi
Am robert for the Norcal bayarea.
I have a 88 s4 na that has a little problem!
Lets start! So its not showing any ANY sings of a bad motor had few ppl look at it and told me "**** it looks good" But heres the issue.
The car starts up fine and warms up great but the temp just keeps climbing!? If i drive it drops a bit but as soon as i stop it gets up there. So far new Thermostat oem and belts helped a bit, and the water pump looks farily new. Am thinking flush and fan clutch? But idk at this point?
The water flow seems to be okay....I should just go ahead and flush the system if it doesnt rain this weeked.
Thanks
Am robert for the Norcal bayarea.
I have a 88 s4 na that has a little problem!
Lets start! So its not showing any ANY sings of a bad motor had few ppl look at it and told me "**** it looks good" But heres the issue.
The car starts up fine and warms up great but the temp just keeps climbing!? If i drive it drops a bit but as soon as i stop it gets up there. So far new Thermostat oem and belts helped a bit, and the water pump looks farily new. Am thinking flush and fan clutch? But idk at this point?
The water flow seems to be okay....I should just go ahead and flush the system if it doesnt rain this weeked.
Thanks
03-22-12, 07:24 PM
#2
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take a shot of your engine bay.
Is there a bottom wind tray on the car?
How is the engine cooled?.By E-fan or by a mechanical fan on the waterpump?
Is there a bottom wind tray on the car?
How is the engine cooled?.By E-fan or by a mechanical fan on the waterpump?
03-23-12, 11:02 AM
#3
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
ill post the pic of the bay later today...At work right now....The bottom tray is not there i belive? Also it has the stock fan clutch/fan assembely
thanks buddy
03-23-12, 11:51 AM
#6
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
Well when the motor is warm the fan clutch has a bit of resistance to the hand spin maybee one rotation per spin Deff not freewheeling tho...
Okay for the shrouts there is one around the fan but there is no bottom air dam you guys speak off my first fc didnt have one ehter tho? Also could my coolant to water ratio be off?
Ill focus on it a bit more over the weekend.......
Also my damn low coolant light comes on and off! But the top radiator sensor wire is deff fucked and crimped.
Okay for the shrouts there is one around the fan but there is no bottom air dam you guys speak off my first fc didnt have one ehter tho? Also could my coolant to water ratio be off?
Ill focus on it a bit more over the weekend.......
Also my damn low coolant light comes on and off! But the top radiator sensor wire is deff fucked and crimped.
03-23-12, 11:58 AM
#7
Don't touch the fan when the car's warm. You'll end up looking like that statue of Junipero Serra off Hwy280. 
Do you hear a babbling brook behind your dashboard? Maybe you simply need to bleed the air out of the cooling system. Also, that undertray makes a HUGE difference.
Do you hear a babbling brook behind your dashboard? Maybe you simply need to bleed the air out of the cooling system. Also, that undertray makes a HUGE difference.
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03-23-12, 12:07 PM
#8
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
Don't touch the fan when the car's warm. You'll end up looking like that statue of Junipero Serra off Hwy280.
Do you hear a babbling brook behind your dashboard? Maybe you simply need to bleed the air out of the cooling system. Also, that undertray makes a HUGE difference.
Do you hear a babbling brook behind your dashboard? Maybe you simply need to bleed the air out of the cooling system. Also, that undertray makes a HUGE difference.
Well what i will do is just flush the system when i get around to it this weekend hopefully. It seems all the air is out but i could be wrong ill lisen close to the dash next time.....
anything else guys
03-23-12, 12:50 PM
#10
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
All thats left is flush, this bottom try hope pick n pull has one....and fan clutch....Radiator seems great......
03-23-12, 12:59 PM
#11
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I would use a normal 50/50 coolant and redline water wetter to help aid in cooling. changing the thermostat and gasket, water pump and gasket, and the sensor on the top of the rad will make the most difference. I cannot stress enough how important it is to not let the car overheat whatsoever. I dont care what the situation is, you turn the car off before its too late. My GXL fell victim to overheating, ran fine for a week, then gave out entirely. I could see coolant leaking between every housing/iron and the water pump housing.
Honestly it's left a permanent scar on me for all future 7's I buy. In fact the next one I get the first modification will be a Prosport water temp guage. I highly suggest it to you too so you can ACCURATELY measure the temps. The stock guage is horrible.
Honestly it's left a permanent scar on me for all future 7's I buy. In fact the next one I get the first modification will be a Prosport water temp guage. I highly suggest it to you too so you can ACCURATELY measure the temps. The stock guage is horrible.
03-23-12, 01:19 PM
#12
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
I would use a normal 50/50 coolant and redline water wetter to help aid in cooling. changing the thermostat and gasket, water pump and gasket, and the sensor on the top of the rad will make the most difference. I cannot stress enough how important it is to not let the car overheat whatsoever. I dont care what the situation is, you turn the car off before its too late. My GXL fell victim to overheating, ran fine for a week, then gave out entirely. I could see coolant leaking between every housing/iron and the water pump housing.
Honestly it's left a permanent scar on me for all future 7's I buy. In fact the next one I get the first modification will be a Prosport water temp guage. I highly suggest it to you too so you can ACCURATELY measure the temps. The stock guage is horrible.
Honestly it's left a permanent scar on me for all future 7's I buy. In fact the next one I get the first modification will be a Prosport water temp guage. I highly suggest it to you too so you can ACCURATELY measure the temps. The stock guage is horrible.
Right i agree i do need a better temp guage. I had the thermostat put in last week and it helped a lot its a OEM mazda one too....Ill swap the coolant prob this week if not deff next because its PAYDAY! hehe
04-12-12, 05:08 PM
#14
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
Okay so i think i have the problem pin pointed!
Last night i took out my fan clutch and it had a bit of resistance but felt weak (the car was just ran for a hr prior to taking it out. I spun it for about 10 sec and it got weaker and weaker.....
After a few had spins the fan started free wheeling? So basicly am 90% that i have a bad fan clutch!
I am in the ugly process of trying to find one now...
04-16-12, 12:43 PM
#15
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
STILL RUNNING HOT GUYS! only thing left is the radiator to swap too much money down the drain at this point guys i might have to quit on her....Starting to think there might be am internal problem....
only thing left is the radiator to swap too much money down the drain at this point guys i might have to quit on her....Starting to think there might be am internal problem....
04-16-12, 06:06 PM
#17
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so you installed a "new" clutch fan or one from a bone yard? check your radiator hoses with the engine warm, if you can squeeze them, replace them this means they are weak and bad. a collapsing hose will cause you to run hot. did you ever flush it? start the car with the radiator cap off (the one on top of the thermostat housing) and let the car idle. watch for air bubbles escaping from the coolant. we have to bleed our cooling system. an air pocket in the coolant system will make the gauge go up rather quickly.
i agree that the undertray is supposed to aid in coolang, however i haven't had on on my car since i got it (back in 06) and my brothers car was missing it when he bought it a year and half ago. never had any cooling issues from it. however, we also run electric fans so could be why. i do plan to install one for aerodynamic purposes. i finally found one (yay).
check you floor board, if it's wet then your heater core is bad and can cause it to over heat. if your still having an issue after this point then try replacing your temp sensor (if you cannot afford a new gauge right now, the sensor is cheap from you local parts store).
btw, i have been running pure water in my motor for yrs, however i do flush it every 3 months or so and refill. im not proud of it but it's never ran hot. i bought some peak antifreeze though and will be using for now on (peak has a higher boiling point than prestone)
if your still having an issue, or in fact try this first. top off the coolant. leave the cap off and remove your fuel pump relay. have a friend to crank the engine over while you watch the open radiator cap. if water sloshes out while cranking then you have a bad coolant seal
let us know how it works out. if you need any further help and need an instant reply, try texting me (352) 470-6503 im eastern time zone but usually up pretty late anyway. i would be happy to be of assistance any way i can from here.
good luck!
Roy
i agree that the undertray is supposed to aid in coolang, however i haven't had on on my car since i got it (back in 06) and my brothers car was missing it when he bought it a year and half ago. never had any cooling issues from it. however, we also run electric fans so could be why. i do plan to install one for aerodynamic purposes. i finally found one (yay).
check you floor board, if it's wet then your heater core is bad and can cause it to over heat. if your still having an issue after this point then try replacing your temp sensor (if you cannot afford a new gauge right now, the sensor is cheap from you local parts store).
btw, i have been running pure water in my motor for yrs, however i do flush it every 3 months or so and refill. im not proud of it but it's never ran hot. i bought some peak antifreeze though and will be using for now on (peak has a higher boiling point than prestone)
if your still having an issue, or in fact try this first. top off the coolant. leave the cap off and remove your fuel pump relay. have a friend to crank the engine over while you watch the open radiator cap. if water sloshes out while cranking then you have a bad coolant seal
let us know how it works out. if you need any further help and need an instant reply, try texting me (352) 470-6503 im eastern time zone but usually up pretty late anyway. i would be happy to be of assistance any way i can from here.
good luck!
Roy
04-16-12, 11:19 PM
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id say just make sure your cooling system is pressurized with a compression tester because if its not then your car will over heat but you would also see steam most likelly 
try a big aluminum radiator with e fans, or if your desperate and dont have cash just remove your thermostat. BTW your car is ******* sexy love your style bro!
try a big aluminum radiator with e fans, or if your desperate and dont have cash just remove your thermostat. BTW your car is ******* sexy love your style bro!
04-17-12, 01:16 PM
#20
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
id say just make sure your cooling system is pressurized with a compression tester because if its not then your car will over heat but you would also see steam most likelly try a big aluminum radiator with e fans, or if your desperate and dont have cash just remove your thermostat. BTW your car is ******* sexy love your style bro!
try a big aluminum radiator with e fans, or if your desperate and dont have cash just remove your thermostat. BTW your car is ******* sexy love your style bro! i miss her everyday!THE FC! there is not a day in my life that i dont think about her! I can still hear the brap brap idel with my streight pipe...... FMLGuys no cash for the new radiator at this point .....
I know the gage works because when i drive it drops a bit....I have 3 fan clutches from the yard and non helped at all...The radiator hoes's get super hard almost like compression getting to the coolant! IDK tho am so lost with this car...I put it for sale in the sale thred!
My broke *** cant keep up with rotary problems any more!
Hozzman an not loosing any coolant! No spit out no smoke!
RXfreak13v floor board is good no leaks heater blows nice! I will try to krank the motor with the fuse out and cap open i think i tryed this before but at this poit well try again.....
04-17-12, 01:19 PM
#21
s4 GENERAL
Thread Starter
PS there is no local shops that rebild anymore so i might quit the rotary game for a year or so get my feet on the ground save some cash and start over i guess......
04-18-12, 09:40 PM
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noooo dont sell, your story of the fc in your sig made me sad i hope i never have to sell my baby even if things get rough, have you tried removing the thermostat?
04-18-12, 10:48 PM
#23
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ok there are a few things I would like to know:
1) Does the system build pressure?
1a) if so does the heat work?
1b) if not, Bleed the system, and check that radiator cap is sealing
2) with the cap off of the radiator and the car running, are there bubbles coming from the radiator filler neck?
2a) If there are bubbles I feel sorry for you and give you the best of luck.
2b) if not your fine
3) are you sure that the coolant temp sensor is good and not lying to you, I would borrow a infrared temp gun to double check, I think autopart stores rent them out.
1) Does the system build pressure?
1a) if so does the heat work?
1b) if not, Bleed the system, and check that radiator cap is sealing
2) with the cap off of the radiator and the car running, are there bubbles coming from the radiator filler neck?
2a) If there are bubbles I feel sorry for you and give you the best of luck.
2b) if not your fine
3) are you sure that the coolant temp sensor is good and not lying to you, I would borrow a infrared temp gun to double check, I think autopart stores rent them out.
04-19-12, 03:11 PM
#25
dont use water wetter, it does almost nothing to 50/50 mix and it kills water seals faster.
it sounds like something clogged in ur cooling system. a cheap stock like copper rad cost less than 200, if u cant afford that, u shouldnt be driving in the first place.
it sounds like something clogged in ur cooling system. a cheap stock like copper rad cost less than 200, if u cant afford that, u shouldnt be driving in the first place.