2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 09-12-02 | 08:42 PM
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RylAssassin's Avatar
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From: Boston
Question Headlights

I have an s4 and one of my lights blew so i figured now would be a good time to replace my headlights, but i wanted to go with zenons. Anyone know where to get them?
Old 09-12-02 | 08:56 PM
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DCmina's Avatar
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From: Orange County, California
ebay has some but I dunno if they are good.
Old 09-12-02 | 11:08 PM
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From: brick, nj
i bought a kit from a shop by me......the lenses are ice blue and i got hyper whites so the light looks blue......you can buy the kits off of ebay because all they really are is a lense......if need be you can go to your local auto parts store and buy better bulbs, but everyone that ive talked to that bought them said they worked fine......
Old 09-13-02 | 04:05 PM
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From: Kailua, HI
i dun like those bright *** lights, i mean sure you may think they look cool, and they may light up the road alot better for you, but you know what? they can be blinding to oncoming traffic. anyone else been blinded by these things? some of them are absurd...i wouldnt put them on my car because i know what they're like to look at from the other direction.
Old 09-13-02 | 04:18 PM
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Icemark's Avatar
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally posted by bingoboy
i dun like those bright *** lights, i mean sure you may think they look cool, and they may light up the road alot better for you, but you know what? they can be blinding to oncoming traffic. anyone else been blinded by these things? some of them are absurd...i wouldnt put them on my car because i know what they're like to look at from the other direction.
Only the cheap and mis-aligned ones. The good ones that have a bulb cover or cut off flutes in the lenses and that are aligned correctly when installed do not blind on coming traffic.
Old 09-13-02 | 04:20 PM
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my buddy told me though that the whole headlamp had to be replaced, i dident know you could replace just the bulb. If its just the bulb then im all set but anyone know the number of the bulb so i can get the right one??
Old 09-13-02 | 04:21 PM
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
I don't really care about blinding people with my headlights. There are other road hazards that are worse. BMW, and Mercedes have these type of lights standard so who cares if I got them.

Anyways, I bought a light kit for my car and it wasn't that expensive. I put Denji lenses with a set of Naxos blue's in and they are sweet.
Old 09-13-02 | 04:35 PM
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From: Tampa, FL
You know what. I like the newer style "white" blue lights. They seem very bright, but don't bother you when on-coming. Its weird. Has anyone else seen these? Its like the light is not so dense or something, I thought it was cool.
Old 09-13-02 | 04:47 PM
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Cheers!'s Avatar
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From: Mississauga
get the hella replaecment set.... and then you can swap the bulbs out for piaas or raybrigs... they use H4 bulbs... don't go over 55 watts though.. i think that is how much stockers are.... + make sure the bulbs have hi and low beams built into them
Old 09-13-02 | 05:20 PM
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From: West Bloomfield, MI
Originally posted by RylAssassin
my buddy told me though that the whole headlamp had to be replaced, i dident know you could replace just the bulb. If its just the bulb then im all set but anyone know the number of the bulb so i can get the right one??
This is from Daniel Stern's website:

The headlamp size in your RX7 is properly referred to as "200mm x 142mm".
That is the size of your H6054s, and that is the size of the Cibie
rectangulars.


Several companies make 200mm x 142mm (large single rectangular, sealed
beam size type 2B1) E-code headlamps. First off, it's important to use
CAR headlamps, not the motorcycle ones you sometimes find from Bosch, IPF
or CPI. These are easily identifiable (they say "MOTORCYCLE" on the lens)
and the beam pattern is not at all well suited to use on a double-track
vehicle with low-mounted headlamps. In car units, the most widely
marketed in the USA is the Hella 72206, standard H4 European-spec
headlamp. (You'd also find the 72207, US DOT "Vision Plus" headlamp,
which we call the "Vision Minus" 'cause...well, it's got a replaceable
bulb, but it's just not that much better than a sealbeam as far as beam
pattern goes, and it tends to collect water because of a badly-done drain
design.) But as I was saying, the 72206 is around. I don't use it on my
cars that take the single large (200mm) rectangulars; I use Cibies. Why?

Beam patterns are better (wider, longer-reaching) on low and high beam
with Cibies. The main difference, though, is that 7" round and 200mm
rectangular Hellas have an irritating beam separation problem. Set the
low beams where they belong, and the high beams are up in the trees
without enough on-road light. Pull the high beams down where they can be
useful, and the low beams are down on the bumper. I exaggerate for
illustration, but the effect is to make you try to find a compromise
setting where both beams are kinda OK. The Cibies do not have this
problem; when the lows are correctly aimed, the highs are correctly aimed.
Some folks don't find the beam separation as much of a problem as some
other folks--and a lot of people who have only ever used two kinds of
headlamps (Hellas and sealed beams) will swear that Hellas are the cat's
pajamas. It's certainly true that Hellas are a big improvement over
"sealed bum" originals, but Cibies are just better.

Now that we've fixed the beam pattern problem, let's talk about bulbs.
Stock wattage is 60/55 (high/low). My "normal" bulbs are German-made
high-efficiency 60/55W bulbs; with these, you can just remove the
sealbeams, install the Cibies, aim and go with no NEED (though it's always
a good idea) for uprating the wiring. Now, the E-code beam pattern, with
its sharp cutoff which nullifies glare for oncoming traffic, can support
higher-output bulbs without (a) glaring oncoming traffic or (b) creating
impossible backdazzle for you in bad weather. Note that it is a VERY poor
idea to put overwattage bulbs in with the stock headlamp wiring, which is
meant for stock wattage ONLY. We see a lot of car-be-cue type messes when
people try to do this. The relays/sockets/fuseholders package to do-up
the wiring properly contains all heavy-duty components (dual-output 40A
relays, terminal blocks, brackets, terminals, fused fuseholders and
headlamp sockets) to accept heavy-gauge wire; supply your own wire from
the local economy in your choice of color and length. View and print my
"how-to" page at http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays for full text
and color diagrams of how to do this. Now that we have good wiring, we can
go to town on bulb wattage. NOTE, if you have a passenger car or other
vehicle with low-mounted headlamps (lamps below the level of most
passenger car drivers' eyes when seated at the wheel) you can increase
both low and high beam power without causing undue glare. If yours is a
truck or SUV or other vehicle with high-mounted headlamps, you will want
to keep the low beams civilized to avoid dazzling other road users.
"Other road users" include cops, so use your head! 100/55W bulbs can be
furnished to keep the low beams civilized and still punch the next county
with the high beams. I do not handle the 3rd-world bulbs you can find in
the pages of JC Whitney and in lots of other places. I carry only
German-made (Osram, Philips, Narva) bulbs. My policy of selling ONLY
items I would use voluntarily on my own cars extends down to bulbs!

All prices are at http://lighting.mbz.org/prices
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