Hawk pads shot at ~5000 miles? What happened here?
10-12-07, 09:45 PM
#26
Warning! Due to the dramatic friction levels produced by this product to achieve "race-level" braking, rotor wear, noise, dust, and pad life may be affected.
As for the original poster, I think the track time probably did in these pads. I easily have 10-15k on my HPS pads and they are still in quite good shape. This is with very hard, but below 100 mph, driving.
I'd still see about a warranty, though.
10-12-07, 11:20 PM
#27
^Yeah, the road I drove most on was very high speed lots of hard 70-30mph braking.
Thats what I thought, the shop that just put the pads on said the rotors were fine and the brakes feel fine now on low speed braking. Stock rotors it is then, I'd rather have them look stock anyway. As for the warranty for 50 bucks I'd rather not even bother them..thanks for the help everyone.
Thats what I thought, the shop that just put the pads on said the rotors were fine and the brakes feel fine now on low speed braking. Stock rotors it is then, I'd rather have them look stock anyway. As for the warranty for 50 bucks I'd rather not even bother them..thanks for the help everyone.
10-13-07, 02:39 AM
#28
Well, this is a direct quote from the product page for the HP+ pads:
As for the original poster, I think the track time probably did in these pads. I easily have 10-15k on my HPS pads and they are still in quite good shape. This is with very hard, but below 100 mph, driving.
I'd still see about a warranty, though.
As for the original poster, I think the track time probably did in these pads. I easily have 10-15k on my HPS pads and they are still in quite good shape. This is with very hard, but below 100 mph, driving.
I'd still see about a warranty, though.
10-13-07, 06:15 AM
#29
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11-11-07, 10:40 PM
#30
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Cross drilled and slotted rotors were developed to help remove the gas that brake pads produce. Because that gas would create a barrier between the pad and rotor.
Since todays brake pads are so much more better and don't really produce as much gas, the need for slotted and/or cross drilled rotors isn't as important.
Cross drilled rotors actually have a really high tendacy to crack. I would never use them. If anything, I might use slotted rotors. But I'd rather just use blanks.
If you want to keep them cooler, set up some brake ducting.
Since todays brake pads are so much more better and don't really produce as much gas, the need for slotted and/or cross drilled rotors isn't as important.
Cross drilled rotors actually have a really high tendacy to crack. I would never use them. If anything, I might use slotted rotors. But I'd rather just use blanks.
If you want to keep them cooler, set up some brake ducting.
11-12-07, 07:51 PM
#31
Pads do not reduce stopping distance, they just provide better response (so does a stronger leg on the driver). Neither does slotting or drilling; they are supposedly there for more cooling.
Get cheaper, longer lasting pads. Then upgrade your suspension and tires. Suspension is to hold the tires firmly against the ground. Tires to grip the ground. If you do a lot of repeated braking within a short timespan, then you also need to worry about rotor cooling and fresh high temp brake fluid.
Rotors almost never warp. What happens is you run the brakes hard, then you stop, then you still hold down the brakes. A nice layer of hot brake pad material gets on your rotor in one spot. It thumps after every rotation next time you brake. My rotors used to be somewhat "warped", now with some care they aren't so bad. The purpose of brake cooling is to keep your brake fluid responsive (vs. spongey). Otherwise you get less and less response until eventually you get no response (eep!).
Get cheaper, longer lasting pads. Then upgrade your suspension and tires. Suspension is to hold the tires firmly against the ground. Tires to grip the ground. If you do a lot of repeated braking within a short timespan, then you also need to worry about rotor cooling and fresh high temp brake fluid.
Rotors almost never warp. What happens is you run the brakes hard, then you stop, then you still hold down the brakes. A nice layer of hot brake pad material gets on your rotor in one spot. It thumps after every rotation next time you brake. My rotors used to be somewhat "warped", now with some care they aren't so bad. The purpose of brake cooling is to keep your brake fluid responsive (vs. spongey). Otherwise you get less and less response until eventually you get no response (eep!).
Last edited by ericgrau; 11-12-07 at 07:56 PM.
11-12-07, 09:07 PM
#32
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11-12-07, 09:15 PM
#33
Yes, and they dust too, right? That's how you know you got the genuine article.
They didn't tell you this when you bought them?
From the website: http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hpplus.php
Warning! Due to the dramatic increase in friction levels produced by this product to achieve "race level" braking, rotor wear, noise, dust and pad life may be affected.
Any Questions?
Edit: I should have read all the way to the top. Sideways7 quoted the same page as I, but did it first.
They didn't tell you this when you bought them?
From the website: http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hpplus.php
Warning! Due to the dramatic increase in friction levels produced by this product to achieve "race level" braking, rotor wear, noise, dust and pad life may be affected.
Any Questions?
Edit: I should have read all the way to the top. Sideways7 quoted the same page as I, but did it first.
11-12-07, 09:39 PM
#34
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I have personally witnessed a Ferrari 360 with minimal track time (a couple laps) crack its stock drilled rotors. It definitely happens. I one of the best ones are probably just rotors from www.frozenrotors.com. Good, standard, cryo treated rotors, and they are pretty affordable last I checked. Thats probably what I'm getting next time I need new rotors (probably real soon.... )
)
11-12-07, 10:25 PM
#35
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If you think about the airflow pattern in the rotor you'll see that there'll be very minimal, if any airflow through the holes as they're small and at 90 degrees to the main vents in the rotors, so there's not much incentive for the air to go out that way.
Many, many people have used cheap NAPA rotors at the track with great results. They're cheap and perform very well, no need to go spending money on fancy rotors, most of the time (drilled/slotted) they won't last as long, and the rest of the time any increase in lifespan will be small and won't outweigh the much higehr price. You can do the whole car for about $100 from NAPA.
Drilled rotors were develloped for the pad outgassing that's no longer an issue, they don't help with cooling and now with modern pads they're purely for looks. Drilled or slotted rotors are more abrasive on pads and will shorten pad life.
If you're going to the track get real racing pads and run them on a set of dedicated blank rotors that don't get used with any other pads. Track pads are used for a reason, they provide longer life and increased fade resistance at high temperatures.
Many, many people have used cheap NAPA rotors at the track with great results. They're cheap and perform very well, no need to go spending money on fancy rotors, most of the time (drilled/slotted) they won't last as long, and the rest of the time any increase in lifespan will be small and won't outweigh the much higehr price. You can do the whole car for about $100 from NAPA.
Drilled rotors were develloped for the pad outgassing that's no longer an issue, they don't help with cooling and now with modern pads they're purely for looks. Drilled or slotted rotors are more abrasive on pads and will shorten pad life.
If you're going to the track get real racing pads and run them on a set of dedicated blank rotors that don't get used with any other pads. Track pads are used for a reason, they provide longer life and increased fade resistance at high temperatures.
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