Has anyone solved the jerking or shuddering problem durring take off
#26
illegal ninja moves
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Gainesville, Florida
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Originally Posted by JGard18
I had this problem, and it seems like oil on the clutch was the culprit.
I put the car in second gear (at a stop) and engaged the e-brake. Then I just rode the clutch a while and burnt it up good...
Smelled like burnt oil all over the place...but the shuddering is gone.
You could also check the slave/master cylinders and see what the fluid condition is like
I put the car in second gear (at a stop) and engaged the e-brake. Then I just rode the clutch a while and burnt it up good...
Smelled like burnt oil all over the place...but the shuddering is gone.
You could also check the slave/master cylinders and see what the fluid condition is like
#27
Caramelldansen
Join Date: May 2005
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I just got an 87 GXL (today) and I'm experiencing the same thing, shuddring on take off and after that no problems. I'm thinking it isn't oil on the clutch like Tie Pilot had as I burned the clutch pretty good while driving it home from San Francisco.
#28
The mystery of the prize.
the flywheel needs resurfacing or replacement, possibly even pressure plate and clutch too.
Shuttering with the clutch partially engaged is caused by a flywheel that is glazed and/or no longer flat on the wear surface. Someone sucks at driving stick.
Shuttering with the clutch partially engaged is caused by a flywheel that is glazed and/or no longer flat on the wear surface. Someone sucks at driving stick.
#29
Caramelldansen
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Originally Posted by pengarufoo
the flywheel needs resurfacing or replacement, possibly even pressure plate and clutch too.
Shuttering with the clutch partially engaged is caused by a flywheel that is glazed and/or no longer flat on the wear surface. Someone sucks at driving stick.
Shuttering with the clutch partially engaged is caused by a flywheel that is glazed and/or no longer flat on the wear surface. Someone sucks at driving stick.
Last edited by Dinnercoat; 08-20-05 at 08:59 PM.
#30
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man fellas i had the same problem but i had a light flywheel and ss clutch and every thing else to do the job right. after inslalling this i busted the diff mounts , replaced thoes mazda racing solid ones. then i broke the drive shaft u joints (crazy vibration at all speed when i shook it by hand had to much play)relaced that with r/b shaft while i had it up intaslled solid motor mounts and tranny mount and i had a friggin new master bushing kit and the r/b 3 point strut brace w/engine brace and despite all this it still was jerky in first and reverse.i looked around looking for an answer so i called mazdtrix and talked to tech and he told me its the nature of the beast they have no power down low so iff u want it to be smoove in 1st & reverse u r gonna just have to slip the clutch a little more than u normally would . and i tried it i get good launches but u have to be carefull (hate that burt clutch smell)
#34
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by allen6908
1. Problem only occurs when engaging into 1st or rev from a stand still.
2. Occurs more often when the transmission is hot.
3. The effect is attenuated when the clutch is engaged fast.
4. The effect is attenuated when the clutch is enguged slow.
5. No problem when the car is going over 10 mph
2. Occurs more often when the transmission is hot.
3. The effect is attenuated when the clutch is engaged fast.
4. The effect is attenuated when the clutch is enguged slow.
5. No problem when the car is going over 10 mph
So, here's what should be done in general (based on what people have said):
Resurface flywheel
Check/replace clutch
Check/replace pressure plate
Replace engine/tranny mounts
Check/replace driveshaft and joints
Check for oil on the clutch (leaking front tranny seal?)
Torque brace
Check/replace hydraulics
Temporary solutions:
Have fun slipping the clutch...
Look good?
#36
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Ok, so do the "check" part that I put before everything except the flywheel (which you mentioned) and engine/tranny mounts (after 20 years... you probably should anyways).
Gotcha.
Gotcha.
#40
Rotary Gearhead
iTrader: (6)
If it were mine I would eliminate whether it were a clutch problem or driveline problem by doing this:
With the e-brake fully on, car perfectly still, hold the engine at around 1500-1800 rpm. Put it in 2nd gear, start releasing the clutch until you just feel it start to engage. At that point, if you have a clutch-related shudder, you should feel it then. If you have a driveline shudder, such as after the clutch is fully engaged, you would more likely feel it during the first 5 to 15 mph, then again at higher speeds. Keep this in mind too:
Driveline vibrations such as u-joints, mounts, driveshaft angle, etc. have a slower cyclic rhythm (vibration) in the lower gear ranges because the driveshaft spins slower than the eccentric shaft until 4th gear. Sometimes this is helpful when deciding if it's driveline or clutch, if you can feel the difference in rhythm.
With the e-brake fully on, car perfectly still, hold the engine at around 1500-1800 rpm. Put it in 2nd gear, start releasing the clutch until you just feel it start to engage. At that point, if you have a clutch-related shudder, you should feel it then. If you have a driveline shudder, such as after the clutch is fully engaged, you would more likely feel it during the first 5 to 15 mph, then again at higher speeds. Keep this in mind too:
Driveline vibrations such as u-joints, mounts, driveshaft angle, etc. have a slower cyclic rhythm (vibration) in the lower gear ranges because the driveshaft spins slower than the eccentric shaft until 4th gear. Sometimes this is helpful when deciding if it's driveline or clutch, if you can feel the difference in rhythm.
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