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guess what i just found out about my FC i just bought last week...

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Old 02-06-04, 10:13 AM
  #26  
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you ever done a compression test before? Do it again or get a rotary friend to do it. Your car would not pull hard from 4k to 6k and harder after that, if it had 70psi on both rotors.
Old 02-06-04, 10:44 AM
  #27  
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i have a guy that rebuilds rotaries that will do it for 1000 and i supply the rebuild kit.
I do them for $1100+ and I supply the rebuild kit
Old 02-06-04, 05:17 PM
  #28  
Ryu
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Originally posted by RotaryResurrection
I do them for $1100+ and I supply the rebuild kit
how much extra to port it? my friend will port it for 60 bucks.

and yes my rotary friend did the compression test and said it had 70psi on both rotors. now i'm coming from a car that had no top end and 130hp to a car with lots better top end and 160hp stock. so to me pulling real good might be decent to someone else.
Old 02-06-04, 05:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally posted by Ryu
thanks alot for the help. what is the correct psi rating that i should look for?
13 lbs is what mine was rated for. It should say in the manual and on the cap itself.


Enjoy,

*Ding* The 100th post...
Old 02-06-04, 05:50 PM
  #30  
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On the antifreeze leak, any chance you have a leaking antifreeze level sensor. It's located on the top of the radiator with a small wire coming off it. Mine was leaking only at high speeds on the highway. You should see some antifreeze residue around it if it is the problem. It's a cheap replacement and fixed my problem.
Old 02-06-04, 06:32 PM
  #31  
Ryu
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thanks for teh tip on the antifreeze issue.
Old 02-06-04, 06:49 PM
  #32  
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Stil be careful.

My car had what I thought was a bad Rad Cap. I replaced it and drove another 3 months. Then one night it blew it's load all over the highway offframp and I was stuck on the side of the road with a massive coolant seal rupture.

A bad rad cap might be a sign of an over pressurized cooling system due to a bad or going seal.
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