Efinity

iTrader: (6)

hey all.

ive taken up the task of bringing my fc3s back to life. it was completed by the time i was 19 and i havent touched it in three years (long story). it still has gas in the tank, coolant, oil, but has a dead battery, a severed o2 sensor to the wiring harness wire. i originally thought i had a problem with the motor so i put it on jackstands, then i had to sell the wheels and use the brake pads in my fd. basically ive got a uphill battle here. i dont know if the engine is really soft blown or if my o2 sensor is the culprit. compression test?

ive owned the car now for 5 years, and am the third owner. the two gentlemen before me were both japanese and it has never been outside a night in its life. for instance, the fuel filter has been changed 6 times, lol.

exterior

jdm side blinkers/ clearcoated new markers
corksport widebody knightsports style replica riveted
stock lip
stock sideskirts
h4 hella headlamps
wiper delete/hardware
door molding switched to black
new windshield
new hatch shocks
window net/windows deleted
new blinker lenses


engine/drivetrain

rebuilt engine with new housings 45k ago
streetport
ac delete
butterflies on tb deleted
pineapple 6 port sleeves (on a shelf not in the engine)
ss oil cooler lines
rb full race spark plug wires
cone filter intake
electric fan
fluidyne radiator
full exhaust with rb headers/ resonated midpipe/ oldschool hks 2.5 exhaust dual
fd alt/underdriven
6th fuel filter
rb oil temp/pressure pedistal
scalliwag trans mounds with hardened bolts
new thermostat/housing
safc apexi street tuned
light weight flywheel
cleaned injectors
ignition amplifier
new clutch solenoid/ss line
new clutch mcyl
new trans front and rear seal
new driveshaft
stock pp with exedy clutch (want act hd system)
new axles with rebuild 4.3 and mazdacomp miata torsen type I with hardened gears/bolts by awr
rear differential solid mounts by awr billet
short shifter- some jdm company like c's or something
awr engine mounds with a slim pu sleeve for vibrations
new wheels bearings
new slave cyl
spark coils from a 80k rx7
rebuilt tranny/new starter

brakes

awr brake duct sheilds front
rebuilt brake master cyl
master cyl brace(for the master cyl to not be able to move more than a mil or so forward flex, only good thing from aerodyne, helps alot)
ss lines with tefelon coating
new brake booster
rebuilt calipers
new rotors
mazdacomp pedal alluminum drilled set

suspension

rear subframe awr solid mounts
new subframes, acid dipped, stitch welded, powder coated 'baron red'
rear control arms stitch welded and coated piano black
rear awr camber adjusters
front camber/caster ground control top hats with bearings
rear ground control solid camber adjuster
solid DTSS delete
custom rear toe links for control arms with pillowball joints
rear pillowball suspension joints
front control arms are s4 lathed from AWR for ball join replacement and ball bears in the front
new tie rods, steering rack ball joints, steering rack boots
speed sensing power steering, quick rack ratio
pillowball swaybar endlinks all around
racing beat front sway and TII rear, with PU bushing upgrades (suspension technique spare sways for tuning)
JRZ triple adjustable shocks with external reservoirs (mounted to cage and firewall) zinc coated, tephlon ss lines valved for med weight with quick disconnect reservoirs
hypercoil springs (more accurate springs than eibach means more balance, i have heard 8-10% better tolerance) with rear helper springs for extended droop and seating
front tower brace, rear towers are totally braced with custom shock tower blocks that tie into the cage
longer front and rear wheel studs from arp
steering angle/ adjustable tie rods ready to be installed for toe change elimination up front (i cant remember the name of the brand and thats bothersome) but they are blue i think

interior

sparco evos blue
momo competition wheel with mazda classic racing horn button
sparco 5pnt harnesses, camlock, shoulder pads
pass seat mounted to frame
drivers seat on pull pin custom sliders lower for helmet and balance
alluminum seat brackets for weight
guage din panel by forum member
oil pressure, temp, af guages
interior completely stripped down to the glovebox delete
miata shift ****
mazdacomp drilled allum pedals factory
dash stripped gut
deadening delete
cut off switch for emergencies
shift light
SAFCII
6 point cage, 2 diagonal, 2 down bars, rear strut brace, feet of cage welded down to subframe and disperse. A and B pillars completely gusseted
X braces on doors with nascar lower brace
motorcycle battery relocated behind pass seat
new race mirror on cage
antenna/everything that i dont need to go fast delete like cruise control/radio/ac/wiper water pump
cage camera on gyroscope




onward

on order i have 15x8 +20 white rota slipstreams from japan for 225/45/15 to help drop the car and speed it up from its old 17x9 255's

i also have a pineapple racing oil pan coming in soon from the forum

i am unsure if i should get an Rtek if i have a SAFCII already wired in there, any thoughts?

and does anyone have a clue where the severed o2 sensor wire hooks up on the harness at?


this is what i would like to get done if i get it rebuilt:

port matching
3 window rear bearing
competition front thrust bearing
air filter apexi
mazdatrix competition oil control ring springs
eshaft thermostat replacement mazdatrix valve
pineapple 6 port sleeves installed (have)
comp rotor bearings
main pulley underdrive
exhaust housing inlet -turbo or new housings
act clutch/pp
opr 80psi
93+ cornerseals, mazdatrix carbon are same price?? hm
competition stationary gears or rx8?
timing advanced
tb port
heavy duty springs/o ring springs
headers ported to match exhuast
ss omp lines
new vaccum lines
mazda trix metal treat any engine part that is cheap to do
rb water jacket mod
flatout-motorsports oil cooler
ive thought about rx-8 internals but i cant seem to get a clear view on what exactly would need to be done. like the idea of the eshaft having more oil passages and lighter, and the more compression/hp/revs. the stock fc one has harmonics around 8 that i dont think the rx8 has. does this require 91 too?

also, this car competes above 5krpm and i am still up in the air about yanking the airpump and taking out the actuators for the extra top end, but i am unsure of the real gains vs losing idle and driveability.

any help on the engine planning would be great. i want to get it rebuilt at mazdatrix just as soon as i get it rolling. i have yet to contact them though, so i dont know what their wait and labor is like. thanks for reading my post, here are some pics! hopefully shell be seeing the ground soon- fc's look so much better on the ground than in the air.

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

more pics. i am sure there are tons of ins and outs i could sit here and figure out...like toe hook delete and crash support delete. lol. the list goes on as long as i can sit here and remember...

running 6 mil spacers in back and 14 mil spacer front on the wheels to push them out
hawk hp+ brake pads no abs

mazdamigastos

iTrader: (6)

Very nice indeed, I ended buying your old enkei rims couple years back, it is also mounted on gtus nowadays as well.

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

oh i remember those! the rpf-1's. do you have pics of this gtus you could send me?

Brice_Brice

wow really nice collection you got there. One question, why does it matter that the previous owners were both japanese?

blackedoutFC3S

iTrader: (7)

Any engine bay shots and interior shots?

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

oh ya, ill have to get those off the old computer later tonight

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

little update, shes running!!

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

216 whp 183tq.

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

ortega run, still working out the kinks

rotary#10

iTrader: (38)

Besure to post this in the GTUs thread.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

can you update the information on the actual engine in the car for me? everything you mentioned in your original post and plan refers to a 6-port, which is clearly not what you ended up going with. i just want to know what year/model block you built it around and if the 216 you quoted is on the Super AFC II. i see the Cosmo upper manifold and detect some sort of fabrication on the lower, so i'm curious about that. you've piqued my curiosity.

thanks.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

^I am also intrigued! I'm torn on my next project regarding a high powered NA or a mild turbo setup. But I get ahead of myself sometimes.

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

can you say drug dealer much? lol you got a nice collection of nice expenxive cars there.

whats the deal with the RE upper intake mani? but anyways nice setup you've got there

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

haha i used to sling used R compound tires to the touge guys in socal to afford my tires. had stacks of 235 17's back in the day when that was a pretty standard size on 17x8's. heres the car when i first got her, more to come.

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

some pics of it a few years back, more to come

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

ten points if you guess the road! the engine is a 4 port NA with the turbo rotors. the turbo rotors means less compression, which is audible, but it still provides great power and its ready for the turbo upgrade! the cosmo motor has ports so big its almost a joke, hearing the intake and exhaust open at the same time makes it sound like the grandfather clock of rotaries. im using a haltech e6k, which got rid of the MAF sensor, making the intake sound off and increasing power/response rate thru the roof. the lim was chopped 2 inches to tune for high end hp and upper midrange torque. i think 4 port na's is the only way to go, and will never use a 6 port again. it steps in power with flow effiency 1:1 as it climbs the power band. although because of everything involved to get the cosmo to work, looking back, id recommend a ported 13b-t with the FD throttle/upper manifold and apexi pfc over the route i went, for many many reasons including packaging/chassis dynamics/cost/turbo end-game. with the little amount of torque an NA has, youll find yourself above 6k all day, causing heating issues with low gears, but allowing for very heavy application of the power thru the corner. with turbo cars you can be at a lower rpm, causing less friction and heat at times. let me know if you guys want the other specs on the motor. thanks!

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

the cage was a real toss up between weight and stability. it slowed it down in the straight line as much as it sped the car up through corners and increased rear rigidity. itll come more in handy with turbo, as it helps put down the power. until then its a lot of tube for a 1.3 liter, id recommend a more petite cage for those staying NA.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

^Good to know about the motor. I've seen (and heard) the cosmos 13bre. Brap brap bone stock ports! Imagine if you used the higher compression rotors, but 216 wheel on low compression for an NA sounds good to me! Keeps me thinking about doing my next motor.

dexter_5000

iTrader: (2)

etz meloy mtnway?

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

nope! the road's in california.... with the cage, 4 port, stock tii power levels, low comp rotors, turbo chassis platform- i find myself driving her like shes turbo sometimes and have to snap myself into NA mode! hehe, thats when the fun begins! it really sounds like a frankenwankel, pooling sounds from fc powerband/pulls/fan, fd sounding internals comp/wind/op, cosmo ports, na/turbo mixture. a 13bre cosmo is a fantastic motor, but a 13bt can have large ports and the manifolds/tb upgraded for a more doable and expandable project. the cosmo will feel like a swap, whereas the 13bt will do work and feel @ home in the frame. ill keep it at this level for awhile, its a good midway point to tune the car while building the turbo kit. the 4 port na has 4 v-tec like steps in power: the bottom end, midrange, upper midrange, and high end as the ports change flow efficentancy. this works really well coming out of corners if the rpm is paired right, as the engine steps power for the correct part of the exit. i am fairly torn between the 255/17 x4 touring style with meat to work with and the 225/15 rails for extra speed. props to lucky7 on a fantastic build! i only have to finish up with a oil pan repatch. in the mean time, id ditch the 6 ports unless they're modded or favored by some reason.

mario1386

any vids ?to hear how it sounds and driving

Efinity

iTrader: (6)

hmm vids are all on peoples phones w cold start =P

fc3s91

iTrader: (23)

ding ding!!! GMR!!!

mario1386

what kind of port work ?
injector size?
what rpm did made that power and torque?
what rpm you went up to(redline)?