GTUs Header
07-19-06, 01:21 AM
#26
all motor, wish me luck
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ok now that that is figured out ...do i need to have a air pump for a 90 gtu, header no cat, to open the 5th&6th ports or will the car have no back pressure to open them? my options .....
wire open the ports?
put my air pump back on? (Boooooo!)
run a cat?
sorry if im making this harder than it actually is , i just want to understand it.thx
wire open the ports?
put my air pump back on? (Boooooo!)
run a cat?
sorry if im making this harder than it actually is , i just want to understand it.thx
07-19-06, 07:07 AM
#27
Originally Posted by Nando818
only thing diffrent on that list is i got a sun/moon roof and a casette player witch i took out. manual windows, red on black/grey cloth int , dont know about the hood how do i tell, no rear wiper, and no map pockets so......? i m gonna go check the sticker in a minute
ps she goes 80 in 5th @3200 i think its been a while since i drove the car / and it has a 160 speedo/
ps she goes 80 in 5th @3200 i think its been a while since i drove the car / and it has a 160 speedo/
So... put a magnet on it and see if it stays.
07-19-06, 07:19 AM
#28
Driveline Killer
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Originally Posted by Nando818
hey! who makes a header for my non turbo 13b....and also can i run a header with no cat and maybe a muffler,// do roatery motors need back pressure?
07-19-06, 09:09 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by Nando818
i think my car is just a regular gtu not a gtus,
if that makes any diffrence do i still need to put my air pump back on? i really dont want to, cant i wire them open? or would it run better with the air pump than wire'n the ports open?
so if i run a header no cats and a good muffler it will sound loud up at the high rpm's and acceptable for crusing at low ones? and also will it sound raspy?
"If you're thinking of selling your car because you don't know what 5th and 6th ports are and don't know how to read the FAQ at the top of the page... good luck."
That has nothing to do with ports, i was just assd out that day and it happend to be the day i got some gay thread from some 16yr old TOOL-BAG and i let it get me down....sorry bad day.....i just wanna fix my car ....and i cant get any threads i find usefull on the dang search ,im probally just doin somethin wrong
PS..I dont get down with neons and stickers
if that makes any diffrence do i still need to put my air pump back on? i really dont want to, cant i wire them open? or would it run better with the air pump than wire'n the ports open?
so if i run a header no cats and a good muffler it will sound loud up at the high rpm's and acceptable for crusing at low ones? and also will it sound raspy?
"If you're thinking of selling your car because you don't know what 5th and 6th ports are and don't know how to read the FAQ at the top of the page... good luck."
That has nothing to do with ports, i was just assd out that day and it happend to be the day i got some gay thread from some 16yr old TOOL-BAG and i let it get me down....sorry bad day.....i just wanna fix my car ....and i cant get any threads i find usefull on the dang search ,im probally just doin somethin wrong
PS..I dont get down with neons and stickers
with the raspy all depends on what yo uget for a muffler and what you define as raspy
07-19-06, 09:29 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by Nando818
ok now that that is figured out ...do i need to have a air pump for a 90 gtu, header no cat, to open the 5th&6th ports or will the car have no back pressure to open them? my options .....
wire open the ports?
put my air pump back on? (Boooooo!)
run a cat?
sorry if im making this harder than it actually is , i just want to understand it.thx
wire open the ports?
put my air pump back on? (Boooooo!)
run a cat?
sorry if im making this harder than it actually is , i just want to understand it.thx
the 5/6th ports don't work off backpressure. just airpump pressure. no airpump means no 5th and 6th ports.
wire ports open then it's like running around with a huge cam ALL the time. gas mileage generally isn't as good and the low end power just isn't going to be there. which even when running right there isnt'; much low end power
07-19-06, 09:31 AM
#31
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and guys be nice . he might be a little retard for the rotary but like you guys knew things right away. we all learn sooner or later though I hope.
and poster guy please don't take offence to what I said about you I don't mean it to put you down.
and poster guy please don't take offence to what I said about you I don't mean it to put you down.
07-19-06, 09:43 AM
#32
Engine, Not Motor
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I don't even know where to begin with this topic.
Half the people who replied really need to reread all the sticky threads at the top of this forum, especially the one about not flaming new users.
Most of the questions asked in this thread are covered in the FAQ, so that is the first place to look.
As for the aux ports and the air pump, LEAVE THE AIR PUMP INSTALLED. Removing it means that not only do the aux ports stop working, but the VDI dies as well. In addition, removal of the air pump requires adding a dual belt alternator pully to prevent belt slippage at the water pump.
Half the people who replied really need to reread all the sticky threads at the top of this forum, especially the one about not flaming new users.
Most of the questions asked in this thread are covered in the FAQ, so that is the first place to look.
As for the aux ports and the air pump, LEAVE THE AIR PUMP INSTALLED. Removing it means that not only do the aux ports stop working, but the VDI dies as well. In addition, removal of the air pump requires adding a dual belt alternator pully to prevent belt slippage at the water pump.
07-19-06, 01:06 PM
#33
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didn't think of that aaron. without your 6ports anything above 3800rpms +/- is going to be bad. then above 5000rpms without the VDI it's just going to get worse.
you gain much more by having those working with the air pump then what the airpump takes away. wiring stuff shut will also cost you much more low end then having everything working right.
only thing you gain by removing it is just ac leaner looking engine bay.
as aaron said you would need a double alt pully anyway or you are going to toast your belt fairly quick. maybe get 2k miles out of it. if even
you gain much more by having those working with the air pump then what the airpump takes away. wiring stuff shut will also cost you much more low end then having everything working right.
only thing you gain by removing it is just ac leaner looking engine bay.
as aaron said you would need a double alt pully anyway or you are going to toast your belt fairly quick. maybe get 2k miles out of it. if even
07-19-06, 02:59 PM
#35
all motor, wish me luck
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i already have the dual pully and belts on , so i should take the alt pully back off ?
and what do i do about that tube from where my cat was? can i keep it blocked off?
and what do i do about that tube from where my cat was? can i keep it blocked off?
07-19-06, 05:33 PM
#37
all motor, wish me luck
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wait a sec, i was @ http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda2.htm this is the good exaust correct? and it told me this......
. An Air Control and Check Valve Cover Plate is required when using this header with a stock intake system. The Road Race Header can also be used as the basis for a custom streetable exhaust system in any car from 1971-92 (equipped with a 6-port engine) which allows simple swapping between street and race exhaust systems
is that not the compresser thing?
srry im dumb
. An Air Control and Check Valve Cover Plate is required when using this header with a stock intake system. The Road Race Header can also be used as the basis for a custom streetable exhaust system in any car from 1971-92 (equipped with a 6-port engine) which allows simple swapping between street and race exhaust systems
is that not the compresser thing?
srry im dumb
Last edited by Nando818; 07-19-06 at 05:47 PM.
07-20-06, 12:28 AM
#38
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http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=16130
that is the header you want
the header you brought up is only if you want to customer make your exhuast and have it either true dual exhaust or to make it connect further back. only good if you have the money to use it.
the header I brought up will work with the stock or most aftermarket catbacks. only problem is you will need t oget a racing beat presilencer or your own muffler to put in place of the main cat since it won't fit anyomre
let me ask though about the airpump why are you wanting to keep it off?
that is the header you want
the header you brought up is only if you want to customer make your exhuast and have it either true dual exhaust or to make it connect further back. only good if you have the money to use it.
the header I brought up will work with the stock or most aftermarket catbacks. only problem is you will need t oget a racing beat presilencer or your own muffler to put in place of the main cat since it won't fit anyomre
let me ask though about the airpump why are you wanting to keep it off?
07-20-06, 01:36 AM
#39
all motor, wish me luck
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thanks for the help,...
well as it sits my rx dosent have an exaust on it at all, and am not really worried about emissions, i just wanted something that gains the most power and still lets my 5th and sixth ports open up''''''''wich leads me to my air pump, i was kinda geeked about havin the dual pully on. thats the reason i wanted to leave it off...but..oh well....fudge it/ under drive / alt-pully's for sale ill post um up in the parts forum later...bummer ...least it will work properly tho..
i'll try to get my cam working to get u guys some pics so you can see what im workin with.
well as it sits my rx dosent have an exaust on it at all, and am not really worried about emissions, i just wanted something that gains the most power and still lets my 5th and sixth ports open up''''''''wich leads me to my air pump, i was kinda geeked about havin the dual pully on. thats the reason i wanted to leave it off...but..oh well....fudge it/ under drive / alt-pully's for sale ill post um up in the parts forum later...bummer ...least it will work properly tho..
i'll try to get my cam working to get u guys some pics so you can see what im workin with.
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