Ah ha! I knew there was something in this thread that was bothering me. This is actually incorrect. In a DC application, what matters most is the cross section of the conductor. So in a cable, it doesn't matter how thick or thin the actual wires are, only the total cross section of the cable. Thin wires just make it easier to work with.

An an AC application, the thickness of the wire is a big deal due to the skin effect. AC likes to travel on the "surface" of the wire. As the fequency of the current increases, the skin effect becomes more pronounced, but this only starts to really happen in the 50KHz and above range. At 50/60Hz, it's negligible.

 

Doh, skin effect!
Are we gonna start talking about Litz wires now?


-Ted

 

if i remember correctly, the article was in import tuner in the tune up section. this was along time ago and i dont have the subscrition anymore becaue i cant afford it. but im sure they have an article about it in every monthly magazine. its a basic tune up procedure for import tunner and usually gains an average of 2-3hp.

to NZ, if i follow the groundwire direction on rotaryressurections site do i risk damage. you say they werent protected correctly and that the set up RR has isnt safe, if thats ture then i dont want to put my car in potential danger.

i was thinkin if i could just tap on some new pin to the existing ground wires and weld/solder them. would this be a cheap alternative? any risk here? any porblem with the stock groundwire setup? thanks

 

You can quite safely add all the extra ground wires you want, but there is risk in running an unprotected cable between the battery's positive post and the alternator's output post. There are very good reasons why the stock alternator cable runs through the 80A or 100A MAIN fuse.

If you're going to do this without a high-current fuse or circuit breaker, you must make damn sure the terminals are very securely attached to the cable and that there is absolutely no chance of the cable rubbing on something and wearing through the insulation. If this cable shorts to ground the results will be spectacular and potentially dangerous. This is real basic electrical safety stuff, not rocket science.

In my experience adding this cable made no noticeable difference anyway. If it had I would've added the circuit breaker instead of removing the cable.

 

NZ "If it had I would've added the circuit breaker instead of removing the cable."

what is a circuit breaker? and do you mean adding it to the existing stock ground wires? thanks

 

Google search for "define: circuit breaker":

Simple switch-like device which automatically opens a circuit when the rated current is exceeded as in the case of a short circuit.
www.needhamre-roofing.com/Glossary.htm

A switch that opens an electric circuit when a short occurs.
www.dairynet.com/kids/gloss.html

A device which looks like a switch and is usually located inside the electrical panel or circuit breaker box. It is designed to (1) shut of the power to portions or all of the house and (2) to limit the amount of power flowing through a circuit (measured in amperes). 110 volt household circuits require a fuse or circuit breaker with a rating of 15 or a maximum of 20 amps. '220' volt circuits may be designed for higher amperage loads eg a hot water heater may be designed for a 30 amp load and would therefore need a 30
www.dreamhomesource.com/Glossary.asp

If you have to ask, then I don't recommend that you attempt to modify your electrical system. There's no point in installing a breaker on the ground wires, since the entire car is ground.

 

WTF? I said...

That is not a ground wire!

You can add all the ground wires you want, but I suggest you steer well clear of the alternator until you understand what you're doing.

 

sorry i was rushing an i guess i miss interprete what you said. it also explained why i was soo confused the whole day. thank for pointing it out.