Grinding off bump on front caliper?
02-04-08, 10:34 PM
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Grinding off bump on front caliper?
I searched and only came up with this http://toolscartoon.netfirms.com/twj...pic.php?t=1740 not much info there, so just wondering if anyone knows forsure if it could be done without negative affects or total failure that would be great. Incase anyone asks it's actually on a 1st gen and I wish to fit Weld skinnies on the front and only have one backspacing/offset option, without the bump i can use less spacer.
Thanks for any help.
-Mac
Thanks for any help.
-Mac
02-05-08, 06:03 AM
#2
Disclaimer: Do this at your own risk.
You can do it, but don't grind it FLAT... Big mistake. There is a recessed pocket there that will manifest itself as a HOLE measuring about 1.5mm x 1.5mm (if grinded flat). And yes, I've done it.
I found that you *can* remove some material from the "bump", but I only took off as much as I needed. I probably shaved about 1.2mm straight off the top, and then cut across the top of it at an angle--making sure to leave plenty of "meat" around the spot where I knew the hole was.
Basically the wheels that I mounted were *barely* hitting it as they spun, so I followed the angle of the wheel-spokes with my dremel-tool and took off what was necessary for them to spin freely.
For a test, I *painted* the top of the "ground off" bump to see if the wheels were rubbing/hitting the bump during normal/hard-driving. After several weeks, and less than a 1mm of clearance between the backside of the wheel and the "bump", the paint never was rubbed or worn off. The point is, I didn't need to grind it down like crazy to get that last bit of clearance--my wheel never rubbed.
You can do it, but don't grind it FLAT... Big mistake. There is a recessed pocket there that will manifest itself as a HOLE measuring about 1.5mm x 1.5mm (if grinded flat). And yes, I've done it.
I found that you *can* remove some material from the "bump", but I only took off as much as I needed. I probably shaved about 1.2mm straight off the top, and then cut across the top of it at an angle--making sure to leave plenty of "meat" around the spot where I knew the hole was.
Basically the wheels that I mounted were *barely* hitting it as they spun, so I followed the angle of the wheel-spokes with my dremel-tool and took off what was necessary for them to spin freely.
For a test, I *painted* the top of the "ground off" bump to see if the wheels were rubbing/hitting the bump during normal/hard-driving. After several weeks, and less than a 1mm of clearance between the backside of the wheel and the "bump", the paint never was rubbed or worn off. The point is, I didn't need to grind it down like crazy to get that last bit of clearance--my wheel never rubbed.
02-05-08, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by classicauto
I don't understand how he searched and came up with a thread from Windsor Jeep forums about some hillybilly buying a new jacked up 4x4 
02-05-08, 06:59 PM
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sorry i must have pasted that on accident, and yes he is a hillbilly!! but a good guy regardless of his hillbillyness.
The reason I don't get the proper fitting wheel is the fact that weld makes these wheels for mustangs and don't offer any backspacing or offset options (that I can find). I had them in 4 bolt when i had the GSL-se brakes on the car and they fit no problem. Now that I have upgraded to the FC front brakes and 5 bolt hubs the new wheels hit the caliper.
The reason I don't get the proper fitting wheel is the fact that weld makes these wheels for mustangs and don't offer any backspacing or offset options (that I can find). I had them in 4 bolt when i had the GSL-se brakes on the car and they fit no problem. Now that I have upgraded to the FC front brakes and 5 bolt hubs the new wheels hit the caliper.
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