Just a quick shot of the results.

 

bastard, give it to me j/k. good job

 

Japanese instructions, 98 degrees, lots of cutting and relocating. Overall, took me about 8 hours yesterday--luckily, I borrowed the neighbor's Sawz-All. Gonna have a write-up in the mag with step-by-step photos and I have the Japanese instructions being translated too

 

God damnit I want to buy a T2!

 

Please do the write up on the install with the translations. I have the same kit sitting in front of me but won't have time for a while to install. THANKS!

 

is that the 3 row?

 

dang, had to remove the fog lights huh?

 

Picture's not working for me.

-Andrew

 

Would one of those internet translators work?

 

What kind of fabrication did you have to do? Can you summarize.. I'm planning on getting the 2 Row R-Spec for my FC, but I want to keep the A/C and P/S...

-Andrew

 

Yeah, I'm going to go with the 2 row myself since its pretty cheap. but my AC and PS is gone.. Did you have to relocate your battery? Would the piping clear the battery if its a Hawker Genesis battery laying on its side?

 

rxse7en

Did you remove your PS? If not how did you get around the lines? I really want to keep my PS. I think I have seen some people cut the I-5 pipe and add a silicon coupler right where the shock tower and PS meet.

From the directions I have with my greddy kit the battery does not need to be relocated. Only a small part of the battery tray needs to be trimmed.

 

I had this kit on my car at one time...

IT is not too hard to install. You are able to keep the stock fan/shroud, battery, stock ps and ac. IT is a VERY tight fit with the PS installed...in fact, if you don't want the engine constantly sandwiching the IC pipe between the PS pump and the strut tower causing noise and vibration, you have to either "adjust" some of the PS pump lines, and/or "adjust" the pipe diameter in that spot by ovalling it in a vise to create more room (doesnt alter internal flow characteristics).

You do have to cut 2 holes in the front of the car, and you do have to remove the bumper cover to do the install. You also have to remove the bumper core support, brackets, and foglights. This was my major bitch with the part, and though I didn't lose any noticeable structural rigidity, I still didnt like the idea of having 2 framerails come to a dead stop up front with nothing holding the front of the car together. Even a minor collision would screw some **** up.

My other bitch with the kit is that it doesnt come with a BOV, or even a friggen mount. That's right, you pay 900 bucks for the SOB and then have to seek out somebody local to weld aluminum, to put a BOV in place. This kit is application specific, there is no excuse for them not to install a BOV for you, or at least a damned flange for a bolt on bov.

Other than that, the kit is awesome, and does drastically lower intake air temps. BEcause of this, it causes a drastic change in your tuning map, you will run leaner on top end with addition of this IC versus before. This should be planned for and addressed beforehand.

 

Thanks Kevin, I didn't even think about the lean condition, guess it time for the dyno after I put one on.

 

The kit installed is the 2-row and there was no fabrication just the cutting of the 2 holes for the piping, lots of cutting on the bumper skin (nose cap) and the cutting of the two metal tabs on the bumper support. Overall, it's a tight fit. I have PS and AC, but it fits. Had to loosen the PS lines turn them slightly to make room for the piping. You can leave your battery, just have to cut your battery tray--it's indicated in the instructions. Keep in mind, my car is an S5

Kev's right, pretty annoying that I now have to get the BOV welded in somewhere. Fortunately, I'm still waiting for my radiator to arrive so I don't blame Greddy for the downtime

 

Nice work! Did you install the bumper reinforcement or you left it off? I think in the instructions you have to trim it in order to get it installed back... Also do you have to remove the front tow hook?
Thanks

 

Hey , ive heard of ppl complaining about oil and coolant temps rising after installing these large front mount IC's. How have you corrected these problems, or have you even seen higher oil/water temps after installing the IC?

 

Higher water temps will only be noticed with an accurate aftermarket temp gauge. The stock gauge will show no difference. You need all the OEM panels intact including the underbelly panel and the plastic covers around the radiator support. This keeps air flowing through the radiator and oil cooler instead of over/around them. Removing the A/C and condensor should help alleviate loss of flow since you take one piece out of the equation (my PS/ A/C is removed on my 2 row greddy FMIC install, this is NOT my daily car). I'd like to make some more ducting to the oil cooler but I haven't figured out a decent way since the entire front bumper is FMIC.

 

nice.......U made me want it more.

 

That is gandy it doesnt come w/ a bov.

 

...interesting...i noticed EGT temp drop(or no change at all) at all rpm ranges including WOT..but i have heard of this before and was surprised that it did not happen to me...

 

just curious, what size piping comes with this kit? is it the same for the 3 row and the 2 row?
does it maintain a constant diameter throughout the system? or does it kink or expand due to space restrictions at all?
is the ic itself efficient? what kind of air flow would it support

anyone agree with going with a custom spearco core + custom piping for the FC? or is the greddy that good that its not worth the trouble of custom fabricating a fmic setup?

 

As i state above, it pretty much has to stay off. I don't see any way that it could be reinstalled. THe core is so tall that it takes up that entire space. Furthermore, you have to cut the area where the bumper support brackets bolt to (see pic above) because the IC core lays flat against the end of the framerail...so i see no way to remount the bumper support.

I can say that I saw 10-15* consistently higher temps (oil and water) with teh FMIC than before. I tried both an e-fan and the stock fan...the stock fan actually cooled better, I suppose because it was able to self-adjust to the change. This was with all ducting in place, and a healthy cooling system otherwise. As soon as I took the FMIC off, temps dropped from an average of 205(water)/215(oil) to an average of 190(water)/200(oil). Yes, oil temps in rotaries usually run a bit warmer than coolant, because the oil carries more heat from the rotating assy.

 

I remounted the bumper support--had to cut the two steel brackets nearly in half so that they cleared the intercooler and I had to trim the support itself.

 

Do you think an Air-Water would be better Kevin?