Got too greedy and blew my motor
03-20-08, 02:08 PM
#26
how do you know, have you tired this setup? Justin pawlaks old street car fc has the samesetup and he boosted 15pounds, and another one of my friends with the same setup also boosts 15 pounds stock turbo,stock intercooler, and he eats up s2ks like nothing. All you need is bigger exhaust piping for the turbo to spool quicker and fbcd to prevent the fuel cutoff. i guess its the poormans way to make ur t2 fast.
Its quick, but not that quick.
And how many sack riders does JP have on this website?? lol
03-21-08, 12:20 AM
#29
I don't know man, I don't think any stock ported T2 with a stock turbo can make more than ~250 whp.
I wouldn't be satisfied with beating an s2k either...
I have an upgraded fuel system and standalone, and my car made barely over 230 whp at 10psi. We bumped it up to 12 psi to see if it did anything. It did almost nothing. I did however, get almost stock fuel economy, better drivability, and quicker boost response after the tune. I thought about staying with a stock computer initially, but I'm glad I didn't. The money saved from gas alone paid for my standalone and tune.
I wouldn't be satisfied with beating an s2k either...
I have an upgraded fuel system and standalone, and my car made barely over 230 whp at 10psi. We bumped it up to 12 psi to see if it did anything. It did almost nothing. I did however, get almost stock fuel economy, better drivability, and quicker boost response after the tune. I thought about staying with a stock computer initially, but I'm glad I didn't. The money saved from gas alone paid for my standalone and tune.
03-22-08, 11:45 AM
#34
it looks like its the rear rotor. Just removing the upper intake manifold and turbo manifold ucan see through the exhaust ports, see the rotors when u turn the flywheel. The rear rotor has shiz loads of scratches and chips and the apex seals are cracked chipped. The front rotor looks good, apex seals in good condition. So I blew half my motor.. I need to order a new or used rear rotor housing, new apex seals, and new upperintake manifold gasket. gosh man some of guys here on rx7 are douchbags.
03-22-08, 12:30 PM
#36
Stick with 2mm. Alot easier and if you're short on cash since the seals will be a little more and machining costs (make sure its done by a qualified place or a machinist who's done it before) can add up.
Also, FWIW, I'd use OEM apex seals I've had bad luck with atkins seals breaking in the same spot on the tip. Obviously lots of people use them and they work, but thats just my opinion/findings.
Also, FWIW, I'd use OEM apex seals I've had bad luck with atkins seals breaking in the same spot on the tip. Obviously lots of people use them and they work, but thats just my opinion/findings.
03-22-08, 01:21 PM
#39
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I bet that engine is fine and its some really small quick fix. Do you change out the whole rear end when you get a flat tire? Do you put on a cast when you stub your toe?
03-22-08, 01:42 PM
#40
it looks like its the rear rotor. Just removing the upper intake manifold and turbo manifold ucan see through the exhaust ports, see the rotors when u turn the flywheel. The rear rotor has shiz loads of scratches and chips and the apex seals are cracked chipped. The front rotor looks good, apex seals in good condition. So I blew half my motor.. I need to order a new or used rear rotor housing, new apex seals, and new upperintake manifold gasket. gosh man some of guys here on rx7 are douchbags.
03-22-08, 08:25 PM
#42
Hah! I'd laugh non-stop if it really did turn out to be the IC piping popping off! But seriously, with those mods you NEED some type of fuel control. At 10psi you are running super lean w/ stock injectors, no wonder it blew! Good luck with the rebuild though! 
03-22-08, 10:09 PM
#43
Red Pill Dealer
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I would be surprised if the rear rotor threw the seals and didn't toast the rotor. I'm betting you will need one of them also.
03-22-08, 10:21 PM
#44
Rotary Enthusiast
wow. what a dick, i love how the OP made a thread, asking for advice...even though he never actually used any punctuation or question marks. THEN, some people give some advise and he complete ignores it. so all i have to say to the OP is, have fun talking to your self during this thread because its pretty clear that some mistakes have already been spotted and your just choosing not to listen becuase you OBVIOUSLY KNOW EVERYTHING there is to know about rotary engines. excuse the fu** out of me. but i dont thinkg your going to get much advise. not out of me, your clearly fit the profile.
so you want some advise for getting real help...not just on this site but in the real world? when you ask a question, actually ASK IT. dont just SAY and then try to convince your self what it is in the back of you head.
and never asume anything until you have conclusive results. i tried to explain this to you before you ripped the engine out of the car.
on a side note, to all of the seniors here, i REALLY hope i was never this bad when first started doing stuff to my car.
so you want some advise for getting real help...not just on this site but in the real world? when you ask a question, actually ASK IT. dont just SAY and then try to convince your self what it is in the back of you head.
and never asume anything until you have conclusive results. i tried to explain this to you before you ripped the engine out of the car.
on a side note, to all of the seniors here, i REALLY hope i was never this bad when first started doing stuff to my car.
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