Got too greedy and blew my motor
03-16-08, 03:01 PM
#1
Got too greedy and blew my motor
Im running stock turbo, with jspec motor and stock ecu. I just have boost controller and 3inch straightpipe, fuel pump, and fbcd. Its capable of going over 10 psi easy. Two days ago, I let myfriend have aheadstart in a race and then I boosted to over 12 pounds and sure did pass him going fast, then mmy throttle bogged and rpm slowly dying.....Then it was stuttering, I hurried and dit to aparking lot, itwas barely moving, but still alive.. I parked it and popped the hood. evrything seemed normal, no over heating, or anything. Then tried to restart and itwouldnt start. Myfriends push started it and it somehow started up, but barely alive, like a boggish backfiring tone and stutter, and sluugish rpm.. I drove it home going at max 10 mph with hazards. then when got home, myfreidn said to quickly shut it off because its probaly scratching the rotor housings from the blown apex seal... So im guessing I blewan apex seal.. but I may have to replace a rotor housing too. man thisall happened because Ididnt upgrade my fuel system, to go with my insane stock turbo.. Im guessing its running super lean at high psi 10 and over.. Its freaken fast..I smoked evos,stis, 350z on freeways.. But man, got too greedy with the stock setup...
do you guys think I should rebuild it myself, or pay a shop.. I got a few quotes already, and Im looking at around $2500 starting just for the rebuild not including the replacement parts... But, Im also thinking I should just build the motor to drift spec, since Im always swangin, and was going to go to the events. Or maybeshould I take out the motor and save $$ by sending the motor to the shop?
I need help guys,Ive been emo... soo sad... Im nothing now ... I never knew this day would come.. my engine has less than 80k miles.... yeah Ithink im going insane,all because my motor blew....
do you guys think I should rebuild it myself, or pay a shop.. I got a few quotes already, and Im looking at around $2500 starting just for the rebuild not including the replacement parts... But, Im also thinking I should just build the motor to drift spec, since Im always swangin, and was going to go to the events. Or maybeshould I take out the motor and save $$ by sending the motor to the shop?
I need help guys,Ive been emo... soo sad... Im nothing now ... I never knew this day would come.. my engine has less than 80k miles.... yeah Ithink im going insane,all because my motor blew....
03-16-08, 03:18 PM
#2
RE_p Rotors
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Newport News/Fredericksburg
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
pull it yourself...dont rush anything...send it to a legit rotory shop(not familur with the west coast)...plan the worst and have plenty of extra funds and time set aside for the build...
03-16-08, 03:39 PM
#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Allentown, PA - Paterson, NJ
Posts: 3,247
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
03-16-08, 06:43 PM
#6
After the rebuild you may want to think of safety mods first!
Rewire fuelpump
port wastegate
replace oil thermo pellet
New ground wires
Upgrade oil pressure regulator
Ignition CDI box
custom radiator
Clean fuel injectors
Rewire fuelpump
port wastegate
replace oil thermo pellet
New ground wires
Upgrade oil pressure regulator
Ignition CDI box
custom radiator
Clean fuel injectors
03-16-08, 06:55 PM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
wait a sec. did you hear like hissing noise every time you get on the throttle? check to make sure you dont have any air leaks around your bov. if your running the stock piping plus a BOV its possible you should have blow that little t pipe between the turbo and intercooler.
make sure that your absolutely pos. its blown before you pull it. in other words, prove it. what is the compression...or try the poor mans compression test.
make sure that your absolutely pos. its blown before you pull it. in other words, prove it. what is the compression...or try the poor mans compression test.
Trending Topics
03-16-08, 06:56 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Torrance CALIFORNIA
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
are you kidding me?
03-16-08, 09:30 PM
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
yes, i would say make sure you are conclusive about your problem before you go spending thousands of dollars. if you go through with the rebuild and you use the rest of your stock parts on the long block and it DOES turn out that it was the seals, you will not have fixed the problem and your world is going to come crashing to the ground because your so frustrated that your work didn't pay off. first thing is first and check your compression.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html
03-16-08, 09:47 PM
#12
I didn't see a fuel controller listed in your mods? That my friend, is a big no-no.
I would recommend having some rebuild it for you. You can do it yourself, but without insurance (extra money in case you #$%#ed up), you'll spend more than what you'll spend having an experienced person rebuild it.
The lean condition that popped your motor could also be from old fuel pump wiring supplying insufficient power to the pump.
I would recommend having some rebuild it for you. You can do it yourself, but without insurance (extra money in case you #$%#ed up), you'll spend more than what you'll spend having an experienced person rebuild it.
The lean condition that popped your motor could also be from old fuel pump wiring supplying insufficient power to the pump.
03-16-08, 10:15 PM
#13
Full Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Could it be a bad ground? I was doing some work the other day in my engine compartment and accidentally hit a ground. From my house to a little down the way, I couldn't hit 4k rpm at all. It was very sluggy and when I tried to step on it, it almost died. I couldn't keep up with the minivan in front of me and my car sounded like ****. I got scared and stopped my car and got out to see what it was. Well 10 minutes after looking around I found out a ground that plugs into the firewall came unplugged. Scared the hell outa me but it fixed it just fine.
03-17-08, 05:07 PM
#17
Can anyone here confirm this? And he said smoked so it wasn't even close
03-20-08, 11:22 AM
#19
yup I did. The only mods I have is stock jspec s5 t2 motor , 3inch downpipe, 3 inch straight pipe exhaust[no sissy muffler], 255 lph fuel pump, boost controller, knight sports FBCD, air intake, all ac accesorys removed, no power steering. The down pipe and straight pipe setup with FBCD lets the turbo overboost over 10 psi making it boost crazy fast
03-20-08, 11:30 AM
#20
I wanna go fast
Join Date: May 2006
Location: North Bend, WA
Posts: 378
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if i recall, the fcd has nothing to do with how fast the turbo spools... it just tricks the ecu into not cutting fuel at a preset level. not to mention that the stock turbo is olny good for about 12 psi max, and the stock intercooler is good for 10, after that its pushing more heat than boost. You should probably learn about the systems in your car before modding or you will most definitely keep blowing them up.
03-20-08, 12:34 PM
#22
if i recall, the fcd has nothing to do with how fast the turbo spools... it just tricks the ecu into not cutting fuel at a preset level. not to mention that the stock turbo is olny good for about 12 psi max, and the stock intercooler is good for 10, after that its pushing more heat than boost. You should probably learn about the systems in your car before modding or you will most definitely keep blowing them up.
03-20-08, 12:38 PM
#23
how do you know, have you tired this setup? Justin pawlaks old street car fc has the samesetup and he boosted 15pounds, and another one of my friends with the same setup also boosts 15 pounds stock turbo,stock intercooler, and he eats up s2ks like nothing. All you need is bigger exhaust piping for the turbo to spool quicker and fbcd to prevent the fuel cutoff. i guess its the poormans way to make ur t2 fast.
