Ito told me it is also good practice to gasket or seal the oil pump to the front iron to prevent air being sucked in.

 

he has fitted the rear FD reg and that is actually around 110 psi i thinks

everything so far seems to be AOK


the trick is not to select too long a bolt,, as it has to fit in the space provided under the housing

and do not wind it too tight,, only a few turns will alter the seat pressure significantly
the relief valve will still vent out the hole in the side but the spring relief pressure is higher

test against the air hose if you can make a jig
i aim for 90 psi ish

 

Ito is right, I use Loctite 572 Flange Sealant (orange) because it will seal the machined surface but any excess thats sqeezed out gets washed away with the oil and so doesnt clog or hurt anything.

Bumpstart that is pretty much exactly what I had in mind, and now I am going to have to try it, as I like the idea much better than crushing one, and I do not enjoy telling people they must spent $$ on an early regulator.

As to why shim the front, I believe ( I could be wrong) that the oil pressure at the front regulator is much higher than the rear, so if the rear is 80psi crack, up from say 60, you should increase the front crack pressure as well. I am positive I read a road race builders notes on this at one time, but with my memory will not quote anything specific.

 

i suspect if you up rate the rear,, and do not uprate the front,, in SOME applications with lots of pressure drop from dual serial oil coolers
may amount to the front reg seeing much higher pressure off the pump and potentially it may be bypassing

i havent ever seen the issue myself ( with single coolers )

 

So I should be good with my OIL pressure set up?
Spent the last week cleaning cleaning cleaning, yesterday I fininsh porting and cleaning all my manifolds started to put a few things back together need a few gaskets and other misc. will get all of that from Goopy when pick up my parts. Alls coming along well. Need to remove my oil cooler and get it cleaned, will probly bring it to a radiator shop. Still need to bring my flywheel to the machine shop and send my injectors out for cleaning. Will take care of everything this week, when I get some funds to do so.

 

aok

 

good stuff. i look forward to your 10,000 mile findings. i've heard nothing but good things about Goopy Performance and to be honest, at this point, i'm sold enough to give their seals a try whenever i am financially able put together my next major engine build.

he definitely put that bug in my ear and now i won't put an engine together without a gasket. however, i will look for that Loctite sealant that D Walker mentioned for the engine i'm doing now.

yeah, i've never done it, myself. it's always made me a bit uneasy, mostly because i'm not sure how far to go with it. the method that bumpstart outlined and illustrated puts me a bit more at ease.

 

John at at goopy just called to tell met parts are done already and can be picked up I'm excited

 

picked up all my stuff from goopy today have to clean everything then go back friday to pick up my rotors which are getting new bearings pressed in and apex slots milled for the over sized apex seals.
Here some pix of the stuff I bought.

 

the housing and irons came out awsome. he also plugged a couple holes for me.
he also stamped my initials and GP for goopy performance on my housings

 

here some of the housings and Irons. and me puting my seal case to use.

 

also took some rare pix for u guys
hes building 2 10a motors for a coulpe of friends for some friendly competition

 

Looking Good man! Those housings look pretty clean!

My only curiosity with the 'resurfaced' goopy housings is the amount of material they remove and how it may or may not affect the apex seal protrusion from the apex slot as it rides around the epitrochoid, if that makes any sense. But probably doesn't make a bit of difference with 2 piece seals because they're not split like the 3 piece and have less chance to 'roll' out of the apex groove.

I almost thought I used a gasket on the oil pump, but maybe just silicon, or maybe none?

Looking forward to a startup vid! Keep up the good work!

 

Way cool

 

We are testing some of their products currently, everything looks very nice so far. Customer service is great too.

 

have you test the seals on a street engine yet..?

 

Very nice progress, keep it up!

 

I think Ill be the first in the states

 

JWteknix you should of used these seals on the POS rusted to hell and blown turbo2 you sold me a yr ago. I will never forget

 

The resurfacing process removes very very little material and as far as I am aware there is no issues with apex seal over-extention.

Ito makes his own gasket from paper, its very very thin, like .004 thick and is really to seal any minor imperfections and keep the pump from sucking air. I tried this and it works, but I will freely admit I get frustrated making them to I use loctite 572 Flange sealant, which is an anaerobic sealant that hardens in the pump to housing flange, but doesnt harden where it squeezes out and just washes away in the oil so nothing gets blocked or damaged.

 

Ummm not really . I have a customers engine here with the 2mm seals, finally finished the detail work and going through the electricals today so its ready to start. Cranked it over and got 50psi oil pressure on the starter. Car should start right up in the morning, let you guys know how it goes

 

cool ...... i will be following this thread......

 

Walker, Iv seen Ur thread was under the impression it was gonna be a race motor, and am following it. I think it would be awsome if guys can get some miles on I'd like to to see what these seals will offer, in a car driven day or anything past just the track.

 

Oh sorry, I have two motors together right now with Goopy stuff- the FD motor in the FC race car, and a 13BT in the street car that is working its way to being a track car.

 

Putting it in a video doesn't make them right.

The front oil pressure regulator, as stated by Hailers, relieves system pressure at 156 psi. This oil pressure regulator is before the oil cooler. The rear relieves system pressure at roughly 70 psi stock.
There are very few situations in which the front oil pressure regulator opens. One is by revving the snot out of the engine when the oil is completely cold. Two is if there is a clog in the oil cooler, or oil cooler lines, three is if the oil cooler thormostat bypass fails and the engine tries to pump cold oil through the cooler, and four is failure of the rear oil pressure regulator.

As you can tell, the front oil regulator is there to protect against failure modes.

Should the oil pressure after the pump skyrocket above 156 psi, it tends to lift the front cover away from the front iron, displacing the sealing-oil ring and causing a massive internal oil leak, which causes really low oil pressure, and the possibility of a seized engine.

Shimming the front oil pressure regulator removes the factory installed protection, and offers zero performance gains: once the engine is up to operating temperature under normal conditions, the system pressure is determined completely by the rear oil pressure regulator.

So, install the FD rear. Don't touch the front.